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Old 10-12-2020, 03:41 PM #46
Urbanite Urbanite is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebirdguy View Post
sure. rockauto is usually the best price for most parts & they offer a 5% discount with a code you should be able to find on a google search. you can check amazon or local parts stores too but ive always had great luck with rockauto prices being lowest.

the sr4119 & 4120 are the front l&r for 2wd (& be sure he pays attention to what part# is for which side) the rear are 344410 for both sides.

also tell your mechanic that he doesnt need to remove all the lines, they can just be cut & fluid drained then cap the open ends, but its only a few extra bolts & prying the lines from their clamps to remove it all for a cleaner look. & there are one way check valves in the lines about 10-12" before each shock that lets you remove them without losing any fluid, but not required to do it that way.

2009 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly | RockAuto

2009 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Shock Absorber | RockAuto
I received KYBs this weekend from Rockauto. The fronts are heavy compared to the rears. I plan on keeping XREAS in place, so my question is; after draining system of fluid, how do you recap it? Are there cap ends that could be used for that purpose? Thx.
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Old 10-12-2020, 05:12 PM #47
firebirdguy firebirdguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanite View Post
I received KYBs this weekend from Rockauto. The fronts are heavy compared to the rears. I plan on keeping XREAS in place, so my question is; after draining system of fluid, how do you recap it? Are there cap ends that could be used for that purpose? Thx.
yes, the fronts have springs so they are much heavier than the rears.

you mean you plan to keep the lines & prop valves on the side frame in place? if so, you just remove the shocks at the one way disconnect valve about 12" from each shock, that will hold all the fluid in the lines & in the shock to dispose of cleanly. you dont drain any fluid & the lines stay sealed. you can cap the end of the valve on the lines if you want with a rubber cap that fits but if you dont plan to reinstall the xreas i would just leave it uncapped, or at another time remove the lines, very easy to do, they are held in by a few clamps that a screwdriver will pop the line out of & a few short bolt clamps in the side of the frame, probably take 30 minutes to remove all the lines.
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:36 PM #48
jay333 jay333 is offline
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I'm wondering how my current lift might compare to that of others (in particular those that have installed the kyb or even bilstein shocks). I took a few moments to measure the front and back on my 2003 V8 Limited (currently with the stock XREAS). I have about 160k miles on the vehicle and wonder how much if any the front (or rear) might have sagged. anyways, for what it is worth my current measurements from centre of wheel to bottom of fender is 18-5/8" at front and 21-1/4" at back. So currently there is a difference of about 2-5/8" from back to front (at least on that particular measurement).
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Old 10-13-2020, 10:18 AM #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay333 View Post
I'm wondering how my current lift might compare to that of others (in particular those that have installed the kyb or even bilstein shocks). I took a few moments to measure the front and back on my 2003 V8 Limited (currently with the stock XREAS). I have about 160k miles on the vehicle and wonder how much if any the front (or rear) might have sagged. anyways, for what it is worth my current measurements from centre of wheel to bottom of fender is 18-5/8" at front and 21-1/4" at back. So currently there is a difference of about 2-5/8" from back to front (at least on that particular measurement).
i always measure from the ground to bottom of fender edge, inline with middle of wheel, easier than holding the tape measure at the center of the wheel. but will still tell you the difference between front & rear.

with the KYB, mine measures 35 1/8-1/4" front & 36 1/4" rear. so its a difference of about 1-1 1/8", & looks close to level when looking from a distance. i posted my before measurements in another thread & you can clearly see the difference in the before/after pics i posted on this thread.

based on your measurements i would say your front springs are sagging quite a bit & the kyb will bring the front back to original height plus a little over an inch more. the rear will stay the same since/if you dont change the back springs. the rear of mine still sits plenty high & probably like stock based on other stock 4runners ive seen.

cant comment on bilstein heights since they require springs of whatever brand/rate you choose & most people use one of the 3 lift options for the front shocks the 5100's offer.
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:36 PM #50
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I forgot about another related question I have. My vehicle has the air up/down option for the back (3 settings - low, med, high). Does this factor in at all on my decision for shocks to replace the XREAS system?
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:17 AM #51
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Here's video showing install order of moog stabilizer link I made. The KYB excel-G bushing plates were similar, can use this video as example.

Moog Stabilizer Link Install - 2007 4Runner - YouTube
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Old 10-21-2020, 07:51 PM #52
Urbanite Urbanite is offline
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I got KYBs shocks installed for front and rear, and XREAS is now gone. Truck still maintains that rake stance. I haven't noticed much difference in ride quality except when going over bumps; now it's a LOT more composed. Before if I drove over a bad bump, you'd really feel it.

I have a minor issue. Now, when driving up my driveway or imperfections on road while going slow, I feel very minor clunk on rear end; I can only assume it is the new rear shocks. I'm wondering what that is. I called mechanic who did installation and he told me new shocks were getting broken in
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Old 10-22-2020, 08:48 AM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanite View Post
I got KYBs shocks installed for front and rear, and XREAS is now gone. Truck still maintains that rake stance. I haven't noticed much difference in ride quality except when going over bumps; now it's a LOT more composed. Before if I drove over a bad bump, you'd really feel it.

I have a minor issue. Now, when driving up my driveway or imperfections on road while going slow, I feel very minor clunk on rear end; I can only assume it is the new rear shocks. I'm wondering what that is. I called mechanic who did installation and he told me new shocks were getting broken in
Assuming everything was properly retightened after the work, mechanic is blowing smoke to get you to go away.

Check some simple things: are the springs properly seated? Do you see any rub marks on springs or shocks, or anything else?

Grab your wrenches and sockets and make sure the swaybar endlinks are tightened; swaybar bushings are intact and brackets secured; the top stud on the shock is tight (bushings should be slightly compressed/slightly bulging); and check both ends of the panhard bar.
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:13 AM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanite View Post
I got KYBs shocks installed for front and rear, and XREAS is now gone. Truck still maintains that rake stance. I haven't noticed much difference in ride quality except when going over bumps; now it's a LOT more composed. Before if I drove over a bad bump, you'd really feel it.

I have a minor issue. Now, when driving up my driveway or imperfections on road while going slow, I feel very minor clunk on rear end; I can only assume it is the new rear shocks. I'm wondering what that is. I called mechanic who did installation and he told me new shocks were getting broken in

the kybs wont make it perfectly level, there will still be some rake, you can add the front spacers if you want it more level.

as for the clunk in the rear that is common on these 4runners, not sure why you notice it now vs before... but the clunk is usually related to the driveshaft slip yoke that needs to be greased. do a search for greasing driveshaft & that should fix or improve it. should not be shock related unless something isnt seated right or bolts not torqued right.
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