I've got the front end apart and am having a hard time getting the tie rod (which adjusts the toe in) loose.

How to Replace Front Strut 03-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
I got to 2.24, got the nut off but cannot get that piece to break free. Anyway to get it loose? Tried lube and a sledge...no luck.



So I tried another approach to swing the lower control arm down. Everything comes loose except for one bolt at 1:56 on the lower control arm. I've tried turning both sides of it and neither budges.

How to remove Toyota strut assemblies the fastest way - YouTube

Any idea which side of that bolt needs turned? A way to "unstick" it?

Other options?

I didn't bother loosening that on mine, I just pried the control arm down with a long heavy bar. I had to disconnect the sway bar ends and swing that out of the way. There were some other bits in the way like the wheel sensor. I think I also disconnected the tie rod end (at least on the first side, maybe not the second) and pulled the axle out of the hub assembly to make more space. Moving the CV axle was the game changer, I did not pull it out of the drive train though. I was then able to use a pry bar to pop the bottom of the shock out. It took some finagling but doable. The first one took me a long time, the second one went way quicker once I knew the game plan.

My thoughts are that the LCA loosening and inserting strut with the "no spring compressor method" is the most efficient way. Thats what the exit Offroad video appears to be following

For the tie rod end, you'll need a pitman arm puller/tapered joint separator. Those tapered joints get really stuck together!


For the rear bolt on the LCA, I think you may have a seized cam bolt. This is pretty common if the bolts are lubricated or aligned frequently. If all is working properly, the nut on the rear side should come off, and the bolt with ecentric head should just slide out.

The parts in that rear LCA bolt assembly look like this when disassembled


Since yours is stuck or seized, you can try to remove it by shooting some penetrating fluid down there and then trying to twist or beat through. Although excessive twisting and beating could damage the bushing, so you'll have to be careful. I ended up just cutting mine out since all 4 of mine were stuck. If you do have to cut them out, just replace or rebuild the whole LCA since the seized cams usually take the bushings inner metal pieces with them.

Two comments for you:
1) Your LCA bolts are likely seized due to rust. Unfortunately not a good way to unstick them. If you’re lifting your 4runner, you likely won’t be able to get your alignment dialed in. IF they are seized, you need to cut them out with a sawzall and replace the entire LCA assembly and hardware. Alternatively, you can press out the bushings and if you’re able to salvage your LCAs. @y=mx+b has a great DIY showing how to do this. Note, you can drive being slightly out of alignment. I did for about a year before I payed for OEM LCAs.
2) Good news for you. You don’t need to loosen your LCA bolts. You can get away using a pry bar to flex the LCA arm down. Look here: DIY: Front Strut Replacement


EDIT: LOL SPEAK OF THE DEVIL. You swung in right before me

Good info. I just noticed they are 140 ftlb torque. Maybe that's why so hard to budge..even with breaker bar. I wonder if some heat would help.

nothings ever easy is it...

I'll keep trying to do this...what I was trying.

LOLOL I love it! I am quick haha. I forgot to link the writeup in the first post, so its here

Lower control arm and Cam bolts: Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

No heat on the cam bolts, you will melt the bushings. Only heat if you want to replace the whole LCA (I'd recommend both sides), or commit to removing the actual bushings and the time to replace them. Drop in a new LCA should only take an hour to do both sides, rebuilding them is more like 12 hours.

Very helpful...I wondered if that was bad idea Didn't realize how cheap that hunk of metal is...I'm used to Toyota charging $75 for a tiny piece...true...rear bumper supports. TY!