Hahaha jesus no don't buy that. Get either the motive bleeder, or optionally you can just use a block of wood between the brake pedal and the front seat to wedge the pedal down.
What is it that you see wrong with this? If the check valve works as claims, it should keep air from entering back into the lines no? There are a lot of claims in the comments and reviews of techs using this.
What is it that you see wrong with this? If the check valve works as claims, it should keep air from entering back into the lines no? There are a lot of claims in the comments and reviews of techs using this.
It probably can and does work...mostly. You just don't need to spend money on cheap hacks that introduce margin for error when there are solutions at the top and bottom of the price range already. Bottom being $0 using a block of wood. Don't waste tool budget on shit unitaskers. This is Alton Brown speaking.
What is it that you see wrong with this? If the check valve works as claims, it should keep air from entering back into the lines no? There are a lot of claims in the comments and reviews of techs using this.
I would rather install speed bleeders than try and use that product, same basic principle but you don't have to worry about the tubing sealing and staying on properly to the OEM bleeder valve to keep air out.
It probably work, but $25 I wouldnt buy it. For me, i bought the universal Motive mount for toyota/lexus, rigged the hose with a quick connect to my air compressor, set thr line pressure to 14 PSI and bleed the brakes that way. And because the flow is continuous, I end up using less brake fluid. Tip: with a hammer or mallet, tap the caliper to free up air bubbles.
I have also been successful bleeding the calipers by using a basic catch cup. Orient the catch cup hose so the hose on the bleeder screw points up. As you press the brake pedal, the air bubbles rise well above the bleed screw and any fluid drawn back as you release the brake is free of air. Worked for me many times. But Im lazy, and the motive system without the pump jug has made the job so easy. Make sure not to exceed 14 PSI tho.
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Don't need anything fancy that's going sit around collecting dust 99.999999% of the time before disappearing just before you need to use it again.
I replaced all 4 brake calipers and all I used was a small board wedged between the brake pedal and the seat.
I use the one man bleeder bottle that you can get at Autozone for like 10 bucks. Pretty much the same thing - just a bottle with some tubing and a check valve. Worked just fine for me when replacing my calipers recently!
Reporting back. I bought one, just used it. I had just recently replaced all calipers and pads prior. The thing works like a dream. I used it with some additional feedback from this thread. I know some were mentioning the motiv, but for 60 bucks vs 20, I thought Id chance this. Just to recap my procedure. Ignition on, started with the RR, RL, FR, then FL. I had a large piece of concrete I used to hold the pedal down for the rears. I could hear the pump run for both rears as it continuously pumped fluid out. Probably didnt need the check valve for those. The fronts are what I was more concerned with. I pumped the fronts a few times each. While doing this I noticed bubbles in the line at first, but the check valve worked and locked them in place. I pumped until I saw no air bubbles and used the piece of concrete to lock the pedal down then tightened. In retrospect a one man couldve probably been done utilizing a bottle and hose locking the pedal down with the concrete. I had no hose or bottle so i would've had to buy something regardless. So for 20 bucks I got some piece of mind in the check valve, that did work, and given the freezing caliper issue on the 4th gens, I plan on doing this at least once a year to help clear the lines and add fresh fluid. Took 10 minutes if that. Would recommend if you have no assistance and need any supplies to do the job at all. Thanks guys and gals, pedal is hard as it should be.