10-21-2020, 01:20 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
Posts: 389
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
Posts: 389
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Calling Evaporator Core Veterans
So I find myself faced with a bad evap core, as confirmed by Toyota. I've gotten several quotes, this job looks to cost about $1k+ in labor in my area.
Toyota Dealer: $2250
Indie Mechanics (had 3 quote, all were the same): $1500
I'm considering tackling it myself, my only concern is it's getting colder in my area and I'd be doing this in an un-heated garage and am worried about breaking brittle electrical connectors. Skill-wise, I'm fairly green but have done XREAS delete and 5100s/spring install on this truck as well as brakes/rotors on multiple vehicles.
Thoughts? Talk me out of it? $1k is a tough pill to swallow.
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10-21-2020, 02:54 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,032
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,032
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I'm in the same boat, my evap core is donzo too. I'm thinking I'll DIY mine and try and grab some pics for a writeup. For the past 2-3 years its been able to hold the refrigerant for a whole year before going out, so my plan is to recharge and limp it to next spring, after plastic breaking season. A while ago, I heard someone mention that most auto repairs "are just a bunch of bolts" and this has given me the confidence to complete more challenging jobs on my own. LCA rebuild is only 5 bolts lol. Obviously there's a tad more to it than that, but as long as you research and have the proper tools, I'd send it.
Here are some relevant links I've collected while researching:
Solo Evap Core Replacement- DONE! Pics and Info by
@ TheHennDoggg
A/C Evaporator Core Replacement by
@ jaxX-
4th Gen Evaporator Core Replacement
I'm leaking dye out the AC drain.
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10-21-2020, 03:19 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 75
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 75
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Same boat. Topped it off for a couple years and finally this fall it stopped holding.
I figured I would get a brand new dash (cracking) and do the heater core and evap. Got some blend door issues too that need addressed at the same time.
Can't decide if it's something I want to do or not. I've done heater cores before, how hard can it be?
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10-21-2020, 03:23 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
Posts: 389
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Join Date: Sep 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
I'm in the same boat, my evap core is donzo too. I'm thinking I'll DIY mine and try and grab some pics for a writeup. For the past 2-3 years its been able to hold the refrigerant for a whole year before going out, so my plan is to recharge and limp it to next spring, after plastic breaking season. A while ago, I heard someone mention that most auto repairs "are just a bunch of bolts" and this has given me the confidence to complete more challenging jobs on my own. LCA rebuild is only 5 bolts lol. Obviously there's a tad more to it than that, but as long as you research and have the proper tools, I'd send it.
Here are some relevant links I've collected while researching:
Solo Evap Core Replacement- DONE! Pics and Info by
@ TheHennDoggg
A/C Evaporator Core Replacement by
@ jaxX-
4th Gen Evaporator Core Replacement
I'm leaking dye out the AC drain.
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I mean, based on your legendary write-ups, there's no question I could tackle it after you.
Mine held three months after the last recharge, so it's an appreciably larger leak that's accelerated by parking on declines for some reason. So it would be a matter of limping through winter w/o defrost with a discharged system.
Will update this thread with how I proceed, if I pull the trigger on DIY will definitely document my experience.
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10-21-2020, 03:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eleven14
I mean, based on your legendary write-ups, there's no question I could tackle it after you.
Mine held three months after the last recharge, so it's an appreciably larger leak that's accelerated by parking on declines for some reason. So it would be a matter of limping through winter w/o defrost with a discharged system.
Will update this thread with how I proceed, if I pull the trigger on DIY will definitely document my experience.
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Thanks man, I really appreciate that! That's pretty much the main reasons I like making them, it helps us all to learn more about our 4runners. I'm planning to make one whenever I can get to the evap core, although it may be after you like you mentioned.
oh yeah, your is definitely leaking faster than mine. I always forget that the AC drys our the air for defrost, crap thats kinda important. Hopefully the others will chime in with their experiences. From what I've heard, it sounds more of a pain to remove the dash and time consuming, than difficult/tricky in a problem solving sense.
Appreciate the updates, I'll do some digging too.
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10-21-2020, 03:56 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 217
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Location: Vancouver, BC
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Can someone share the symptoms of the issues?
I have recently noticed that Freon is leaking (the ac is not as cold), it has been recharged and now it seems to slowly leak again. On top of that there is a difference in temperature between passenger and driver vents. Does that match the subject's description?
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10-21-2020, 04:13 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreylights
Can someone share the symptoms of the issues?
I have recently noticed that Freon is leaking (the ac is not as cold), it has been recharged and now it seems to slowly leak again. On top of that there is a difference in temperature between passenger and driver vents. Does that match the subject's description?
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With AC on, passenger cold and driver warm usually means low on freon, but there are a few other things that would cause this like the blend doors actuators and another reason that seems to be escaping me right now. I just remember someone had this issue and something strange fixed it, kicking myself I can't remember what it was.
Dye leaking into the A/C drain is one of the big givaways. I have extended my AC drain with clear vinyl tubing, and it was bright green after like 3 days. That is what the picture I have linked above is showing.
Last edited by y=mx+b; 10-21-2020 at 04:35 PM.
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10-21-2020, 04:27 PM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
Posts: 389
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
Posts: 389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreylights
Can someone share the symptoms of the issues?
I have recently noticed that Freon is leaking (the ac is not as cold), it has been recharged and now it seems to slowly leak again. On top of that there is a difference in temperature between passenger and driver vents. Does that match the subject's description?
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y=mx+b hit on most of the points but, for mine, the giveaway was the driver's side being warm while passenger side vents remained cool.
After recharging the system (w/ dye, there's no dye in the system from the factory), both sides were equally ice-cold for about three months, at which point the driver's side was again noticeably warmer than the passenger side.
That indicated my blend doors were functioning correctly and dye detection via a/c drain line (and via freon sniffer in the vents) confirmed it's a dead evap core for me.
Good luck and shout if you have more questions.
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10-21-2020, 06:23 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 108
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captsolo
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Many starters are secured by two fasteners, this is not novel. And you linked an alternator, not a starter.
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10-21-2020, 06:48 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: KC
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Join Date: Sep 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captsolo
My evaporator core needs replacing. Denso part at Amazon is $99.
Shop guy told me $300 for installation
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Let us know how this works out for you but if the outfit is legit and actually understands what's involved, they're losing money on this job.
Last edited by eleven14; 10-21-2020 at 06:57 PM.
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