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Old 11-04-2020, 12:33 PM #1
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School me on the necessity of adjustable sway bar links

While still waiting on my Dobinsons IMS lift to come in, I'm trying to get everything squared away. I need new sway bar links anyways. So I will be getting a 3" front (with added weight of a bumper and winch) and 3" rear to maintain rake.
Will 2nd gen rear sway bar links suffice? Are longer sway bar links necessary for the front? I don't plan on removing my sway bars.
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Old 11-04-2020, 01:01 PM #2
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i would recommend getting a pair of adjustable end links. when you lift a vehicle you change the geometry and articulation of the suspension from how it is supposed to perform on stock ride height which is what you want but the problem is the front end links are not long enough to compensate for the added articulation of the suspension. having adjustable end links allows you to change the torsion rate of the sway bar which allows you to balance out the added body roll you get when lifting a truck
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Old 11-04-2020, 02:55 PM #3
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If you lift the rear 3" you will likely have nearly zero droop unless the shocks are very long. If they are very long, you'll likely need to lower the bumpstops so that the shocks don't bottom out on compression.
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Old 11-04-2020, 02:59 PM #4
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Why do you think that you "need new sway bar links anyways"?
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Old 11-04-2020, 04:09 PM #5
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Longer links will allow the sway bar to rest in a normal position. As the truck gets lifted, the sway bar's core gets further from the link's mounting points, rotating the "arms" that reach out from the core (mounted on the axle), up to the links. These arms are designed with a specific angle in mind... shortening them or lengthening them (via rotating the bar) changes the force applied to the sway bar, and probably the angle the force is applied as well.

So several things can happen... shortening the arms would increase the tension/compression in the end links (same weight of truck but shorter lever), causing the links to break. changing the angle of the force application to the bar can cause the bar to break off because the bar bends during articulation rather than twists, as its supposed to.

Yeah, one would generally want to keep the bar as it was designed to work. So lifting up a bunch, longer links would be ideal if you want the sways to work properly and not rip stuff up. I've seen a bunch of threads about broken sway bars and that longer links fixed the problem.

Adjustable links and adjustable bars are slightly different thing... they let you tune the aforementioned lever arm length to get different ride characteristics. But it's the same idea I suppose.
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Old 11-04-2020, 04:15 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lord rigatoni View Post
i would recommend getting a pair of adjustable end links. when you lift a vehicle you change the geometry and articulation of the suspension from how it is supposed to perform on stock ride height which is what you want but the problem is the front end links are not long enough to compensate for the added articulation of the suspension. having adjustable end links allows you to change the torsion rate of the sway bar which allows you to balance out the added body roll you get when lifting a truck
I've searched before asking and know there was a person on here building them. Not sure if he still is. But do you have a recommended links that don't break the bank? Dobinsons wants $150 just for the rear!
Would 2nd gen rear links suffice for my lift?

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Why do you think that you "need new sway bar links anyways"?
The boots are torn. Also one of those, while it's torn apart, might as well replace these small parts.
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Old 11-05-2020, 12:56 AM #7
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2nd gen for the rears are the cheapest way to go.
Sounds like anything longer just get in the way.

Front use a sway bar "relocate", couple of blocks that move front bar down and forward slightly.
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Old 11-05-2020, 01:06 AM #8
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Remove the front sway bar, you don't need it. I haven't had one since I swapped out the dead XREAS on mine at the beginning of the year.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:45 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Remove the front sway bar, you don't need it. I haven't had one since I swapped out the dead XREAS on mine at the beginning of the year.
How did this affect your on road handling? I like to take corners faster than a typical SUV.

Of course it would be easy to remove it just to see for myself.
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:01 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldub View Post
If you lift the rear 3" you will likely have nearly zero droop unless the shocks are very long. If they are very long, you'll likely need to lower the bumpstops so that the shocks don't bottom out on compression.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff View Post
2nd gen for the rears are the cheapest way to go.
Sounds like anything longer just get in the way.

Front use a sway bar "relocate", couple of blocks that move front bar down and forward slightly.
I did exactly what BackOff described here for the front and rear on my 4Runner with a 3Ē Toytec/Bilstein lift. Cost me around $60.
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:50 AM #11
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This is the website of the guy who makes them on here. If you are interested in purchasing a pair it might be worth waiting because he has new sealed heim joints coming out in five weeks or so.

Overland Custom Design
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Old 11-09-2020, 09:36 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros View Post
Longer links will allow the sway bar to rest in a normal position. As the truck gets lifted, the sway bar's core gets further from the link's mounting points, rotating the "arms" that reach out from the core (mounted on the axle), up to the links. These arms are designed with a specific angle in mind... shortening them or lengthening them (via rotating the bar) changes the force applied to the sway bar, and probably the angle the force is applied as well.

So several things can happen... shortening the arms would increase the tension/compression in the end links (same weight of truck but shorter lever), causing the links to break. changing the angle of the force application to the bar can cause the bar to break off because the bar bends during articulation rather than twists, as its supposed to.

Yeah, one would generally want to keep the bar as it was designed to work. So lifting up a bunch, longer links would be ideal if you want the sways to work properly and not rip stuff up. I've seen a bunch of threads about broken sway bars and that longer links fixed the problem.

Adjustable links and adjustable bars are slightly different thing... they let you tune the aforementioned lever arm length to get different ride characteristics. But it's the same idea I suppose.
Thanks for this- makes a lot of sense!
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Old 11-09-2020, 10:39 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff View Post
2nd gen for the rears are the cheapest way to go.
Sounds like anything longer just get in the way.

Front use a sway bar "relocate", couple of blocks that move front bar down and forward slightly.
This is what I'm going to go with. Except I'm going to remove the front bar. If I don't like it removed, I'll get new standard replacement links and a relocate kit.
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:12 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klavender1 View Post
This is what I'm going to go with. Except I'm going to remove the front bar. If I don't like it removed, I'll get new standard replacement links and a relocate kit.
Since you like to take fast corners, I can guarantee you'll hate the amount of body leaning with no front sway bar!
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:23 PM #15
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If you spend most of your time on-road you may like the front swaybar on.
If you like to play off road... ditch the front sway bar.

These things ride better overall without the front swaybar and the suspension works better. IMO
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