I have my 2007 4Runner up on jacks in the driveway with rain coming tomorrow afternoon. I am trying to change the front struts and I cannot get the top strut bolt to move. I have been soaking in PB Blaster off and on for a few weeks now.

On my last try I had a 6 mil wrench on the top above my 17 box end wrench and managed to strip the top where the 6 mil was sitting.

Any tips? I am about to take a saws all to it... but am not sure if this is a good idea. I replaced the rear shocks earlier and had to resort to cutting the bolts off the top as it was impossible otherwise. Everything is rusted/corroded super tight.

I am trying to replace the struts using the no spring compressor method.


Update: I bought a craftsman nut splitter. It broke during my first attempt to use it, barely making a dent on the bolt. I ordered a hydraulic one from Amazon and amwahing for it to arrive.

When I used a torch on the rear shocks I heated up one nut so hot the rubber bushings caught on fire. I want to reuse the bushing on the struts so I did not try heating. I have been soaking the nuts in PB Blaster as well to no avail.

This has been a tough job. I sheared the head off of a 20 inch breaker bar trying to loosen the bottom bolt of one of the front struts.

Can you get vice grips where your 6mm was? If not sawzall may be in order.
Rust is always part of the deal unfortunately if you're in the rust belt. Every project I do I have to battle it!

I tried vise grips as well. They spin and don’t hold.

What about heat?

Isn't what you're trying to loosen a nut and not a bolt?

If so I would use a "nut splitter" to crack the nut and then you should be able to easily remove it.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Can't remember if there's enough room between the coils of the front spring but if there is you can put vice grips on the strut piston since you're replacing the strut anyway. Just don't do it to the new ones, lol.

if youre replacing them why are you undoing the top bolt? to remove the shocks you just undo the 3 14mm bolts on the top & the one big bolt on the bottom & the whole assembly comes out.... the top bolt/nut is to undo the spring & top hat.

& just an FYI, these are not struts, they are coil over shocks.

Like firebirdguy said. You only need to remove the three 14mm nuts on top and the bolt holding the bottom of the shock and the whole shock/spring assembly will come right out..

As @Mr_Dobalina mentioned he is....

"I am trying to replace the struts using the no spring compressor method."

So I guess that's why he trying to remove the nut.

And is why I suggest using a "nut splitter".

i saw that but he didnt say he was reusing the springs or if they were original, if they are original with high miles its probably not a good idea to reuse them.

its possible he just read the no spring compressor method & thought thats how they need to be done so i just wanted to mention the better/easier way to remove the shock.

& for the price of a shop removing the springs for him after the shock is out or renting a compressor for free is there really any benefit to doing the no compressor method? only advantage to that is if you plan to reuse newer springs.

& from what he described to remove the top nut, heat is the next/best thing to try before a nut splitter.. which he'd have to buy or rent.

I still would suggest the nut splitter over heat, the reason is because of the rubber bushings, to get any results from heating the rubber would be at the very least melting but most likely will catch on fire.

Also anyone who lives in a rust belt area and wrenches on their vehicle should own a nut splitter, IMHO, and for $13 it's wise investment, but he could possibly find an auto parts store that will loan him one.

i respectfully disagree on your description of using heat... the nut is pretty small & does not need to be heated anywhere near melting the top hat rubber or catching it on fire. a propane torch concentrating the tip of the flame on the nut only, not the shaft or the top of the shock to melt the rubber. doing it that way keeps the heat on the nut to expand it & break the rust & while still hot loosen it. the idea is to keep the heat off the shaft or bolt threads & quickly heat the nut to expand it. ive done it this way countless times when working on my own cars or stripping 30-40 year old parts cars that have spent a lifetime in rust belt areas & it works great 9 out of 10 times. just my experience with doing that literally hundreds of times.

hopefully the OP lets us know what he did with it & if he was reusing the springs to have to mess with the top hat nut.

Vise grips on the stanchion of the strut and heat on the nut.

I agree with the above and use the nut splitter if it’s stripped at this point. I actually removed the shock from front passenger side this weekend but I took out the whole assembly. If you can dish out 35$ they have great spring compressor kit at harbor freight or some places might even rent them. Good luck man

I think the guys above saying to remove the 3 bolts are correct. That's how I would do it. If you're really set on trying to remove that top nut, you could try a self adjusting pipe wrench. I have an old one that I use to remove stuck nuts, it also works when you break the head off a bolt and the stud is exposed. It works better than vice grips because the harder you push on it the tighter it grips. Either of the ones at this link should work:

Try this one.