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Old 12-21-2020, 03:43 PM #16
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Talk about some excellent customer service by Toytec.

I was a little bummed yesterday when I pulled one of the Bilstein 5100 rear shocks out and it was leaking fluid from the seal. After closer inspection I noticed that the box was damaged, so it may have happened during shipment. I called and spoke with David this morning. He assured me he would get one shipped out today. I called back just now for an update and they’re overnighting a new one with a return label to send back the faulty shock.

10/10 customer service.
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:10 PM #17
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Sweet thread. Question: Do you think it would be worth while or would it make sense to replace the starter when you replace the water pump and timing belt?

I'll be due for a timing belt/water pump change next year and am trying to figure out if it would make sense to have an OEM starter put in.
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Old 12-22-2020, 09:53 PM #18
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Sweet thread. Question: Do you think it would be worth while or would it make sense to replace the starter when you replace the water pump and timing belt?

I'll be due for a timing belt/water pump change next year and am trying to figure out if it would make sense to have an OEM starter put in.
I honestly havenít given it a thought. I guess I need to read up on starter accessibility.
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Old 12-22-2020, 09:59 PM #19
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Today was quite productive. After a solid 6-7 hours in the garage I was able to get the exhaust installed, rear shock installed (thanks again Toytec for overnighting my replacement), running boards removed, rear diff breather mod, headlights aimed properly, front swaybar reinstalled with new end links, and my clearance issue with the driver side window and door check bar corrected.

Tomorrow I will get the front end aligned and the trans/engine oil changed.

Here’s how she sits currently (bonus background cameo of my best man’s 2008 Tacoma with a badass Fox suspension):
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Old 12-22-2020, 10:21 PM #20
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Thumbs up

Damn, you're up and crankin' fast! Recently picked up an '08 V8 for exactly the same reason... After my ex took an '06 Sport I bought new, my only rig has been an '06 F-150. Picked this 4R up to reduce annual mileage on my Ford, have a back-up ride, and to give me the chance to have significant down time on the Ford to replace warped rotors, worn suspension, and rusted exhaust... Oh, and to repair the rear driver's bed panel that "someone" creased with his Polaris loaded with mule deer. Ooops.

This'll be the first subscription thread for me, 'cause your quick progress is an inspiration and because you provide ample photos showing the good, the bad and the ugly with good descriptions. As a rookie at auto work, it helps to see as well as read. Well done.
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Old 12-22-2020, 10:27 PM #21
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Originally Posted by Wild Thing View Post
Damn, two months in and you're crankin'! Recently picked up an '08 V8 for exactly the same reason... After my ex took an '06 Sport I bought new, my only rig has been an '06 F-150. Picked this 4R up to reduce annual mileage on my Ford, have a back-up ride, and to give me the chance to have significant down time on the Ford to replace warped rotors, worn suspension, and rusted exhaust... Oh, and to repair the rear driver's bed panel that "someone" creased with his Polaris loaded with mule deer. Ooops.

This'll be the first subscription thread for me, 'cause your quick progress is an inspiration and because you provide ample photos showing the good, the bad and the ugly with good descriptions. As a rookie at auto work, it helps to see as well as read. Well done.
Thanks and I really appreciate it (it’s actually about two weeks in). After 15 days of ownership I’m glad that I have most of the work completed that I set out to do. There’s still some maintenance items (timing belt/water pump, needle scaling the frame, and wool wax coating it) that need done, and I also have sliders in the garage awaiting welding and need to pull out the rest of the XREAS system, but I’m happy with what I have done so far. I’ve been exhausted several days of this process but I’m nearing the end of the tunnel and its drivable, so I’m happy.
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Old 12-25-2020, 10:58 PM #22
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Wednesday I got a front end alignment, and changed the oil and transmission fluid. Today the front axles got re-booted and I did the stretch mod to the inner boots (I used this video as a guide which was very helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCT4UgFUTw&feature=youtu.be).

I used the OEM Toyota boot kits which came with everything needed. If I had to do this again I would guess it would take me between 90 minute and 2 hours per side to complete. It took a little longer since it was my first time doing it and I walked through the first boot with the video. I would recommend getting clamps similar to these: Amazon.com: Stainless Steel Universal Adjustable AXLE CV Joint Boot Crimp Clamp Kit,24PCS(12pcs Small+ 12pcs Large): Home Improvement instead of using the fold-over style OE clamp. One of the original boots had simply slipped off while on the vehicle with the clamp fully in tact, likely due to not enough clamping pressure by the fold-over style.

I didnít take many pictures because the video above shows everything. Iím hoping the stretch mod will allow the CV boots to last longer, which upon install it seems to keep the boot ribs from touching each other.
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Old 12-26-2020, 11:32 AM #23
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Suspension update.

Iím liking the way it sits now. Once I first installed the suspension I was considering a front spacer due to the rear being much higher than the front, but it seems to be settling nicely.
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Old 12-29-2020, 09:53 PM #24
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Tonight Apple CarPlay went in so that I donít have to listen to the horrible disc jockeys and ads on FM radio. I went with this particular unit because it was cheap (ďscratch & dentĒ at Crutchfield for $350 shipped with all install equipment), it has a capacitive touchscreen (vs the resistive/mushy screen), and I am a fan of the Kenwood DDX8706S unit in my Tundra. As long as Kenwood/JVC continue making good quality units, thatís what Iíll continue to run.

The install went pretty smoothly although adjusting the mounting brackets was a bit tedious but itís dialed in now. Also, because I was in a rush, I installed everything before realizing I didnít plug in and route the mic. 10 minutes later it was installed and good to go.
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Old 12-30-2020, 06:47 PM #25
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Sometimes itís the little things. Today my bulbs came in for the HVAC display. Literally a two minute job with a flathead and Phillips screwdriver that makes it much easier to see whatís going on, especially at night.

Link to write up with part numbers
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Old 01-01-2021, 12:27 PM #26
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I placed my order today for ditch light brackets and ditch lights. A friend with a Tacoma has a 32" curved light bar not being used that may be installed into my lower grille when I install and wire the ditch lights.

I also need to coordinate getting my sliders fabbed up. I may be making my first trip next weekend with the new rig, so I doubt I'll have time to get the sliders fabbed, coated, and installed in time. The trail selection will be pretty light so I don't go banging rocker panels.
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Old 01-03-2021, 06:22 PM #27
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Productive day. I was able to somehow get the T40 torx bolts out of the rear hatch striker. They were so seized that I snapped a Bosch impact rated bit trying to get them out. Fortunately the bit was still usable, and due to its now shortened length, was less flexible and delivered every bit of torque through my 1/2Ē drive ratchet. The striker is now flipped 180 degrees so now that the hatch can latch onto a fresh, non-grooved surface, the hatch does rattle while driving.

Next up was the cabin air filter. Just look at the pics, theyíll do the talking.

I finally pulled out the XREAS system. Quick work with an angle grinder and 12mm socket. Everything came out pretty easily without struggle. No pics of that because itís already in the trash.

Spark plugs. My god were they crusty. I couldnít begin to guess how old, but theyíre OLD. New NGK iridium plugs are in and Iím going to keep an eye on one of the coils, as it looked a little suspect. Itís not arcing to the head but might start somewhat soon. Iíll probably change that out soon just as a preventative measure.

Onto the pics...
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Old 01-03-2021, 07:25 PM #28
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Quote:
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-Cracked manifold: Depending on the severity and your climate (rust) you can remove, weld together, and re-install to save money. I did that and it cost me a felpro gasket and about 6-8 hours. It's a tedious 1 man job but not overly technical.

-Valve Cover leaks: Be careful not to over torque those small bolts. You can do more damage than good. Best it to replace correctly the first time. Alternatively you could try high mileage oil which may help the seals swell back up better.
I gots a 2005 V6 4runner (150,000 miles) since new here in Nassau Bahamas. All short trips of 5 miles. No 100 miles ever.

Never had to touch the engine or tranny - except for fluids (1 time for tranny at 100,500 by dealer. Brakes one time - by good mechanics at shop with 6 lifts. Original WP and alternator. Paint looks like yours in the picture - new.

How does Toyota paint their cars so they never rust out? Sold a 10 year old JIMMY because it rusted out so bad. Back hatch would hardly close. Afraid to touch it as it might break off.

Think I might go another 150,000 miles with this 4runner. Thought about buying a new one, but why? Paint on mine is pristine. Starts and runs like new car. Have replaced a few starters. Here in Nassau a car gets started three times as often per day as the same car in Miami (with 400,000 miles).

Garaged now.

Bought my daughter a new Camry for graduation and acceptance into Florida State. She now landed a good job with the biggest Wall Street broker and drive it to work in Denver. Going on 6 years old. I wonder how long a Toyota can run trouble free.

Quality is Toyota. Honda engines too. European and American cars are done IMO.

Three Yamaha 4 strokes on back of my old 42 foot Performance. A good day for YFT. Sushi. Bob the builder of the Performance 15 years ago died two months ago. Built the best 40 footer in South Florida. About ten in the Caribbean. All fiberglass - no wood. Hulls were indestructible. Many times I'd hit a wave and the "boom"; It would make me think the hull would crack and leak. Never happened.

We drift and chuck. You could troll for two days and not get a strike! YFT can't throw or pull a #9 circle hook. Why take the chance and lose a $400 fish with a smaller hook?

Sold my Performance 42 after 15 years of pounding through Bahamian seas and two sets of (3) outboards on the stern. Bob rigged the boat, and there was never a problem.
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Old 01-05-2021, 11:56 PM #29
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The replacement ignition coil arrived today. I still canít quite believe that the crack runs the full length of the coil and it was still operating fine.
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Old 01-06-2021, 12:34 AM #30
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Quote:
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Productive day. I was able to somehow get the T40 torx bolts out of the rear hatch striker. They were so seized that I snapped a Bosch impact rated bit trying to get them out. Fortunately the bit was still usable, and due to its now shortened length, was less flexible and delivered every bit of torque through my 1/2Ē drive ratchet. The striker is now flipped 180 degrees so now that the hatch can latch onto a fresh, non-grooved surface, the hatch does rattle while driving.
Almost like the bit was designed that way. Good thing it was!
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