12-10-2020, 05:08 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badmeat
What kind of clearance between the tire and UCA do you have? Do you think if you had a 285/70/17 instead of the 255 width in the 33 that it would rub?
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FJ Cruiser wheels have a 15mm offset, as opposed to stock Limited wheels that have a 25mm offset. A 265/70/18 on a 25mm offset rubs, particularly when articulating. A 285 is 0.75" or 19mm wider than a 265, but that's spread on both sides of the offset, so you 10mm further away from the UCA, but 9.5mm wider tire on that side of the midline.
Based on the math, my guess is it would rub. However, that is assuming you use an FJ Cruiser wheel. If you can get something closer to a 0mm offset you would be fine. You just have to watch it as the more offset you get, the worse body mount rubbing is.
A lot of folks on this forum have run 285's. Honestly, with how many people are running 35's these days there are some good options for getting to much bigger tire sizes.
I stuck with the pizza cutters because of concerns with UCAs, and because all cars in ABQ get trash gas mileage. Not sure if its purely altitude, or altitude with weird gas and traffic patterns, but even my friend's prius loses 15-20% of its gas mileage around here.
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2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
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12-10-2020, 05:52 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 53
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Thank you for posting this, it's refreshing to see a completely functional build that is somewhat stealth. Really like what you've documented so far, and will continue to follow!
1 thing: The Eibach shocks are digressive, they do not have progressive valving. I recently communicated with an engineer at Eibach and he confirmed they are digressive, almost bordering on linear.
O and I agree with you on the rear springs, seems a bit undersprung to me (and I have 0 extra weight on my '04 V8).
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12-10-2020, 05:58 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_joe
Thank you for posting this, it's refreshing to see a completely functional build that is somewhat stealth. Really like what you've documented so far, and will continue to follow!
1 thing: The Eibach shocks are digressive, they do not have progressive valving. I recently communicated with an engineer at Eibach and he confirmed they are digressive, almost bordering on linear.
O and I agree with you on the rear springs, seems a bit undersprung to me (and I have 0 extra weight on my '04 V8).
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Huh, you have better info than I do then. All I know for sure is I've ridden in cars with Bilsteins and they tend to be pretty rough on road. I like that Eibach has the good features of the Bilsteins but with a better ride on the road.
As I'm working through everything, I'll get to it eventually but I ended up swapping out the rear coil for a Sway Away rear coil instead of the Eibach one. The Eibach rear spring does not handle weight well, even if we're just talking a load out for a big camping trip. I bought one from someone here on the forum, and then resold my Eibach rear spring locally.
Also, my "stealthiness" is probably going away soon. I ordered a TrueNorth Fabrications Hybrid bumper the other day during Black Friday. I actually would have kept the stock bumper, but it already had damage when I bought the truck. Its part of why I got the price I did.
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2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
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12-10-2020, 06:14 PM
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#19
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Member
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Minor Interior Mods
Sometimes, it's the little things that make a rig more cool day to day.
I usually drive with a radar detector, so I needed a way to charge phone without taking up the cigarette port up front. Found that Cali Raised LED has this great little USB charger port that goes in one of the switch blanks in the console ( Toyota USB Outlet). Wired it to the back of the cigarette outlet and it works great.
Additionally, when driving off-road I typically use OnX Offroad for mapping. I don't want to change out the head unit yet, but it would be nice to actually see what the map says at a glance. I grabbed one of the Scosche magic mount pro magnetic mounts and popped in under the vent as a temporary measure. To my surprise, its worked even on some gnarly trails. Not sure I really need anything else.
The last mini interior mod was my inclinometer. I found one that even matched the interior color scheme of the lights! I took out the little pop out drawer thing below the vents that I could never find a use for. I initially just used command strips, but those kept coming off in the heat. Got tired of messing with it one day, and finally drilled some holes and screwed it to the plastic. Love the look though.
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12-10-2020, 06:31 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Cincy, OH
Posts: 245
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Location: Cincy, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
FJ Cruiser wheels have a 15mm offset, as opposed to stock Limited wheels that have a 25mm offset. A 265/70/18 on a 25mm offset rubs, particularly when articulating. A 285 is 0.75" or 19mm wider than a 265, but that's spread on both sides of the offset, so you 10mm further away from the UCA, but 9.5mm wider tire on that side of the midline.
Based on the math, my guess is it would rub. However, that is assuming you use an FJ Cruiser wheel. If you can get something closer to a 0mm offset you would be fine. You just have to watch it as the more offset you get, the worse body mount rubbing is.
A lot of folks on this forum have run 285's. Honestly, with how many people are running 35's these days there are some good options for getting to much bigger tire sizes.
I stuck with the pizza cutters because of concerns with UCAs, and because all cars in ABQ get trash gas mileage. Not sure if its purely altitude, or altitude with weird gas and traffic patterns, but even my friend's prius loses 15-20% of its gas mileage around here.
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I believe the stock limited wheels are +30 offset, so with the extra 15mm of clearance when running a +15 offset on the 20mm wider tire (10mm per side), I may be ok with FJ alloys or something between +15 and 0.
Thanks for stepping me through the thought process.
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2003 Ltd V8 - The RST RNR & 2019 Tundra TRD Pro
ALL SOLD:
2015 Inferno TRD Pro
2013 SR5-P
2001 SR5
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12-10-2020, 08:24 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
After buying a used , I am always a fan of preventative maintenance. I knew from the pre-purchase inspection that I needed new CV boots. What I did not know until I got home was the CVs were cheap after market units.
Also, at 178k miles it had no record of any timing belt being done. I'm guessing it was at some point, but with no idea I was not about to risk it.
I DIY as much of my own maintenance as I can. So far, a timing belt is near the limit of what I will do, but I seem to have a knack for taking on bigger and bigger projects...
Initial Maintenance:- New OEM CV axles
- New timing belt and water pump using AISIN Kit
- New Thermostat
- Coolant Drain and Fill
- Oil Change
- Power Steering Fluid Change
All of this went according to plan, EXCEPT for part of the timing belt. Had the belt changed out and everything was moving along all hunky dory. I did take the radiator out, which let me get my impact in to make taking off the crank shaft bolt way easier.
I got to the part where I bolted thermostat housing on... and righty-tighty become righty-loosey. Bolt completely sheered off in the block
Thankfully, I was able to get it out with a screw extractor and some patience.
I had some bolts of similar length and thread count from my Isuzu in my garage, though I did have to shorten one with the dremel. After that, I was able to cinch everything up, and have her back on the road!
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Would you mind sharing some info on the CV replacements? I know these are probably in my future sooner rather than later as they are starting to show some cracks but no leaks yet. I inquired at the dealer last time I was there and I think it was about $2500 total for both. I know you used OEM but how hard is the install, etc.
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2007 Silver SR5 ski rig
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12-10-2020, 09:25 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCaKid
Would you mind sharing some info on the CV replacements? I know these are probably in my future sooner rather than later as they are starting to show some cracks but no leaks yet. I inquired at the dealer last time I was there and I think it was about $2500 total for both. I know you used OEM but how hard is the install, etc.
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There are three options for CV axles. OEM are about 400/piece online. If you currently have OEM, you can get remanufactured joints from CVJ for 250ish. Lastly, you can go the cheap route and get NAPA axles for like 125-150/piece. In terms of quality, if you onky drive on road, NAPA work. If you offroad, you will blow through them in no time flat, you need to go with CVJ or OEM.
In terms of the process there are several guides on this website. Long story show, it's pretty easy. For me it was less than half a day of work. You basically take the front tires off, disconnect the LCAs, and pop them out. There is a thread that describes the other seals you need tk grab to make sure you get everything taken care of at once.
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12-10-2020, 09:56 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 2,052
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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Hello fellow Burqueño. Nice build so far. If you have questions and or issues about building the NWTI bumper
@ alia176
is your man. He's local and just built one. He's also very friendly, he doesn't bite, I promise.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
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12-10-2020, 09:59 PM
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#24
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
Hello fellow Burqueño. Nice build so far. If you have questions and or issues about building the NWTI bumper
@ alia176
is your man. He's local and just built one. He's also very friendly, he doesn't bite, I promise.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
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Good to know! My interaction with fab shops in abq has been... Mixed lol.
It's actually not NWTI, but True North Fabrications prewelded. Their option is light weight (only 90lbs!) so I wanted to try it. That said, whenever I get around to a rear bumper I'm probably looking at a diy project of some sort.
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12-10-2020, 10:00 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
There are three options for CV axles. OEM are about 400/piece online. If you currently have OEM, you can get remanufactured joints from CVJ for 250ish. Lastly, you can go the cheap route and get NAPA axles for like 125-150/piece. In terms of quality, if you onky drive on road, NAPA work. If you offroad, you will blow through them in no time flat, you need to go with CVJ or OEM.
In terms of the process there are several guides on this website. Long story show, it's pretty easy. For me it was less than half a day of work. You basically take the front tires off, disconnect the LCAs, and pop them out. There is a thread that describes the other seals you need tk grab to make sure you get everything taken care of at once.
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Thanks, I've been doing some research on the process and what it would actually take to do. I'll probably go the CVJ route, as even though it's not gonna be a rock crawler or anything too extreme, I'm planning to build something out that can get me off the beaten track, plus deal with the terrible roads for skiing.
Definitely happy to hear it's an easy job -- some of the threads have scared me a bit with the tool list and not always having access to a garage, as I live in a city apartment. Worst case I'll buy parts, and see what labor would cost between the dealer or a local 4x4 shop.
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2007 Silver SR5 ski rig
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12-10-2020, 10:09 PM
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#26
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Member
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Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCaKid
Thanks, I've been doing some research on the process and what it would actually take to do. I'll probably go the CVJ route, as even though it's not gonna be a rock crawler or anything too extreme, I'm planning to build something out that can get me off the beaten track, plus deal with the terrible roads for skiing.
Definitely happy to hear it's an easy job -- some of the threads have scared me a bit with the tool list and not always having access to a garage, as I live in a city apartment. Worst case I'll buy parts, and see what labor would cost between the dealer or a local 4x4 shop.
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If the weather is decent this is doable in a parking lot. That said, you do need specific sizes of sockets, and probably a BFH and some kind of punch kit to get them out.
Once out, it's not too bad, though getting the seals to set is a little nerve-wracking.
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12-10-2020, 10:17 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
If the weather is decent this is doable in a parking lot. That said, you do need specific sizes of sockets, and probably a BFH and some kind of punch kit to get them out.
Once out, it's not too bad, though getting the seals to set is a little nerve-wracking.
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For sure -- the 2 tools I'd need to acquire/borrow were the BFH or a slidehammer to get the CV out and the massive socket to get the axle nut off. Maybe it's a good excuse to get that DeWalt Impact I've looked at haha
Also ya the seal part for sure made me think twice. I'd prefer to do the work on my own and would definitely like to tackle some bigger projects on this one than I've done in the past, but the description I read on those seals definitely made me think twice.
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2007 Silver SR5 ski rig
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12-10-2020, 10:28 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCaKid
For sure -- the 2 tools I'd need to acquire/borrow were the BFH or a slidehammer to get the CV out and the massive socket to get the axle nut off. Maybe it's a good excuse to get that DeWalt Impact I've looked at haha
Also ya the seal part for sure made me think twice. I'd prefer to do the work on my own and would definitely like to tackle some bigger projects on this one than I've done in the past, but the description I read on those seals definitely made me think twice.
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For the socket itself, autozone will rent you an axle nut socket set for free. You will need either an impact or a big cheater bar to get it off though. A big cheater bar is 20-30 at Amazon or HF, and if you want the impact Rigid sells a great one at home depot. Makes a lot of things easier.
For the seals, if you want to make it easy, take the seal to home depot and get some pipe that's the right size for pushing it in. Makes it way easier. Or you can tempt fate like I did and use the CV itself to set the seal. It might work, it might not. It did for me.
You will leak a little bit of oil, so it's also a good time to change your front diff oil. Autozone carries a Chevron full synthetic gear oil in the right weight for our cars that's pretty cheap.
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12-10-2020, 11:37 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
For the socket itself, autozone will rent you an axle nut socket set for free. You will need either an impact or a big cheater bar to get it off though. A big cheater bar is 20-30 at Amazon or HF, and if you want the impact Rigid sells a great one at home depot. Makes a lot of things easier.
For the seals, if you want to make it easy, take the seal to home depot and get some pipe that's the right size for pushing it in. Makes it way easier. Or you can tempt fate like I did and use the CV itself to set the seal. It might work, it might not. It did for me.
You will leak a little bit of oil, so it's also a good time to change your front diff oil. Autozone carries a Chevron full synthetic gear oil in the right weight for our cars that's pretty cheap.
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You're a braver man than me on the seals! I think I'd definitely go the pipe route to fit them. Appreciate the info though on the axle nut -- I hadn't thought about
AutoZone rentals for it.
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2007 Silver SR5 ski rig
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12-10-2020, 11:40 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCaKid
You're a braver man than me on the seals! I think I'd definitely go the pipe route to fit them. Appreciate the info though on the axle nut -- I hadn't thought about
AutoZone rentals for it.
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Bravery is not wisdom. It's usually born out of laziness xD
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