12-14-2020, 08:21 PM
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#1
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Lights on dashboard are flashing
Hello everyone,
So I had to replace both of my CV axles and one of my hub assemblies. The axles were really jammed in there and I had to smack the hell out of both of them to get them out. I reassembled everything and the car drives fine but now it won’t go into 4WD and cruise control doesn’t work. I’m at a loss as to what it could be. There are two lights flashing on the dash as soon as the car starts, in park, in drive, always. They don’t go off at all. ABS sensors? Front diff actuator?
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12-14-2020, 08:23 PM
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#2
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Better pic
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12-14-2020, 08:27 PM
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#3
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Join Date: May 2014
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Only thing I can think of electronic in that area is wheel speed sensors. One on each spindle. Might want to check the one you removed for the bearing swap.
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12-14-2020, 08:36 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
Only thing I can think of electronic in that area is wheel speed sensors. One on each spindle. Might want to check the one you removed for the bearing swap.
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Awesome. I will check both of them. Do you think that beating on the axles to get them out could have affected the front diff actuator?
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12-14-2020, 10:35 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Just curious, but you DID replace the axles one at a time, right?
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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12-15-2020, 12:20 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Just curious, but you DID replace the axles one at a time, right?
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Interesting. Curious why that would matter, not that I have to replace my axles yet. Also, did you get axles with/without abs or would that be part of the hub assembly?
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12-15-2020, 08:58 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6
Interesting. Curious why that would matter, not that I have to replace my axles yet. Also, did you get axles with/without abs or would that be part of the hub assembly?
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Abs sensors are part of the hub assembly, and if both axles are removed at the same time, you lose the timing or alignment on the differential (not sure my verbage is correct here) and it won't engage. I was instructed to do axles one side at a time unless you're replacing the differential.
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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12-15-2020, 01:03 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Abs sensors are part of the hub assembly, and if both axles are removed at the same time, you lose the timing or alignment on the differential (not sure my verbage is correct here) and it won't engage. I was instructed to do axles one side at a time unless you're replacing the differential.
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I've had both axles out at the same time more than once, the last time pretty recently to gusset my spindles and control arm cam tabs. I don't see how this would cause an issue but I may have just had luck I suppose.
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12-15-2020, 02:45 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Just curious, but you DID replace the axles one at a time, right?
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Yes I did. They were a real ***** to get out though. Out of curiosity what happens if you replace them one at a time.
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12-17-2020, 05:43 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Just curious, but you DID replace the axles one at a time, right?
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So it turns out it’s not the ABS sensors. I’m thinking it’s the front diff actuator. I must have damaged it when replacing the CV axles. How hard is that to replace ?
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12-17-2020, 06:19 PM
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#11
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I've never heard of this from a CV swap. Following to see what you figure out.
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12-17-2020, 06:36 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
I've never heard of this from a CV swap. Following to see what you figure out.
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Me either. That’s why I’m perplexed. I swapped them out a few years back and the outer boots tore again so I had To do it again. This time I really had to beat the hell out of the passenger side which is The side that the actuator is on. I’m wondering what I’ll find when I get it off. I just don’t know how exactly to remove it.
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12-18-2020, 08:16 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
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Real Name: Elliott
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
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Posts: 479
Real Name: Elliott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
I've had both axles out at the same time more than once, the last time pretty recently to gusset my spindles and control arm cam tabs. I don't see how this would cause an issue but I may have just had luck I suppose.
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I've been looking thru my search history for a few days and I can't find the page I was reading when I was researching axles. I can't remember if I read it on here or on another site because that was around the time I did the ECGS bushing on the driver side, but it was pretty specific as far as only changing the axles out one side at a time unless you were planning to change the diff, something about losing timing on the actuator which would make the truck not engage 4wd, I can't fully remember what it said, and now I can't find it either. Probably not so much you were lucky as I may have misread something, I'll keep digging...
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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12-18-2020, 08:21 AM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheThreeFs
So it turns out it’s not the ABS sensors. I’m thinking it’s the front diff actuator. I must have damaged it when replacing the CV axles. How hard is that to replace ?
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I didn't see any trac or brake lights lit, so I figured it didn't have anything to do with abs. I don't believe the abs has anything to do with the engagement of the actuator. I have read about several stuck actuators, not had to change one out yet
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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12-18-2020, 08:42 AM
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#15
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 479
Real Name: Elliott
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 479
Real Name: Elliott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheThreeFs
Yes I did. They were a real ***** to get out though. Out of curiosity what happens if you replace them one at a time.
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For future reference, look for OEM axle-popper forks...life savers... everything else is just the hard way to do it.
Amazon.com: OEM TOOLS 27305 Axle Popper Kit, Fork & Shim Tool, Remove Most Vehicles’ Half-Shaft Drive Axles, Fix Damaged CV Joints: Automotive
__________________
2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
Last edited by 81runner; 12-18-2020 at 08:46 AM.
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