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-   4th Gen T4Rs (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/)
-   -   Dobinsons 4th Gen 4Runner Snorkel - In Stock (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/292960-dobinsons-4th-gen-4runner-snorkel-stock.html)

Crikeymike 02-09-2021 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdmundGTP (Post 3602448)
Got the snorkel yesterday. Is there any sort of Installation Manual for this, apart from the cardboard template?

Looks like the fender flare needs to be cut, along with the fender itself?

Yes, there is but the guy doing the digital instructions hasn't got them done yet. I'll be emailing everyone who bought the snorkel those instructions as soon as I get them, and also posting them up on the instructions page of my site.

Yes, gotta cut the fender and the flare, as the snorkel meets between both of them.

TheV6ThatCould 02-09-2021 01:09 PM

The Dobinsons snorkel likely similar installation to the Safari snorkel. Yes you do you have to cut through both the plastic and the metal piece to create the oval shape.

Don't worry too much about being 1000% precise. Get it as close as you can and go for it. The drilled mounting bolt holes and the snorkel intake hole are large enough to allow for some wiggle room.

ads2539 02-09-2021 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crikeymike (Post 3599760)
Added the photos to the first post, and added the product link to my site (don't know why I forgot to put that on there).

Running a sale on all Dobinsons snorkels right now too!! Details are on the site.

I just ordered a snorkel for my V8. The sale is still good as of this morning (2/9/21). 👍

EdmundGTP 02-09-2021 01:59 PM

Do you have to pull the fender flare off to make the cut, or can it be trimmed in place right at the same time as the fender itself?

I guess the obvious answer to that question is, it can be done either way. But what I'm more after is, is one way easier than the other, or does one way produce a better result than the other?

Thanks!

TheV6ThatCould 02-09-2021 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdmundGTP (Post 3602480)
Do you have to pull the fender flare off to make the cut, or can it be trimmed in place right at the same time as the fender itself?

I guess the obvious answer to that question is, it can be done either way. But what I'm more after is, is one way easier than the other, or does one way produce a better result than the other?

Thanks!

I did everything with the plastic overfender attached to the metal fender. The template doesn't really allow you to cut it separately.

(Again this is in reference to the Safari snorkel.)

mtbcycle 02-09-2021 02:18 PM

Just ordered! stoked to get it

Crikeymike 02-11-2021 11:47 AM

Instructions have been added to the first post, and also highlighted on the product page on my website.

The adapter hoses for the V6's are being air freighted over right now, and should be here by the 21st of Feb. On the site when you order, you'll specify if you have a V6 or V8, and the snorkel will be shipped with the hose accordingly!!

4th Gen 4Runner Snorkel Kit for 2003-09 by Dobinsons | Exit Offroad

ads2539 02-16-2021 05:10 PM

My snorkel just arrived via UPS today, and everything looks good! There are five plastic/rubber parts and a bag of hardware. Mike emailed the instructions to me last week.

Now I have to wait for Spring to arrive to install the snorkel. Itís 20į in Chicago today, with about a foot and a half of snow on the ground. I might have to wait until May to install it.

EdmundGTP 02-16-2021 05:38 PM

Installed mine this past weekend. Was pretty straight-forward. I opted to put 10-24NC Riv-Nuts into the A pillar and use 3 button-head machine screws rather than just the pull rivets that were supplied.

Reaching up inside the fender to get those nuts started is a bit of a tricky stretch. I put double-sided tape on the washers so they stayed in place until I get could get the nuts started. Easier if the truck is on a lift and the wheel/tire is removed, but totally doable on the ground.

Crikeymike 02-17-2021 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdmundGTP (Post 3605390)
Installed mine this past weekend. Was pretty straight-forward. I opted to put 10-24NC Riv-Nuts into the A pillar and use 3 button-head machine screws rather than just the pull rivets that were supplied.

Reaching up inside the fender to get those nuts started is a bit of a tricky stretch. I put double-sided tape on the washers so they stayed in place until I get could get the nuts started. Easier if the truck is on a lift and the wheel/tire is removed, but totally doable on the ground.

That's a good idea. I think the riv-nuts are a better idea, but they don't supply them like that since the special tool is required for them, although so is a pop rivet gun. Haha

I like the trick in the instructions for using a block of wood on the drill so that you can't bottom out the drill into the a-pillar.

EdmundGTP 02-17-2021 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crikeymike (Post 3605566)
That's a good idea. I think the riv-nuts are a better idea, but they don't supply them like that since the special tool is required for them, although so is a pop rivet gun. Haha

I like the trick in the instructions for using a block of wood on the drill so that you can't bottom out the drill into the a-pillar.

Where my pillar holes ended up, the lower 2 were right over what looked like an internal rib of some type, and it appeared that you'd need to drill through at least (2) layers of actual sheet metal to get in to where the airbag lives. The 5mm max depth seems VERY conservative, but understandably so.

A 10-24NC riv-nut requires a bigger hole (.28 dia approx.) than the plain pull rivet, and I had to drill away part of that 2nd internal metal rib to get enough depth to fully seat the riv-nuts for install. Went super slow/careful doing it, but encountered no sign of airbag material. If anyone is inclined to use riv-nuts like I did, all I'd say is exercise caution and patience so you don't accidentally go TOO deep/far with your drill. Paint your drilled hole edges, and cover the shank of the riv-nut in silicone sealant before squeezing it into place, then wipe away the excess.

Don't forget the anti-seize if you use stainless screws in stainless riv-nuts.

I liked the idea of using riv-nuts and it gave me an excuse to buy the tool. Now I can put a threaded hole anywhere on the truck.

Here's a snap of it installed. Good fit! Looks about as close to "factory" as you could hope for I think.
https://i.imgur.com/S9v6vgh.jpg

0verland 02-17-2021 07:58 PM

Is this introductory pricing while bringing the product to market or can we expect a price increase in future batches?

RkyMtn4rnr 02-17-2021 09:53 PM

This looks good. Iíll be ordering one this week!

Crikeymike 02-18-2021 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0verland (Post 3605813)
Is this introductory pricing while bringing the product to market or can we expect a price increase in future batches?

$300 is the standard price for now. There will be a price increase in a few months on all Dobinsons parts though, most likely.

TheV6ThatCould 02-18-2021 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdmundGTP (Post 3605390)
Installed mine this past weekend. Was pretty straight-forward. I opted to put 10-24NC Riv-Nuts into the A pillar and use 3 button-head machine screws rather than just the pull rivets that were supplied

This was going to be my approach as well but I chickened out. I felt fine about drilling the massive fender hole but between the air bag and virtually zero chance of reversing the A-pillar holes, I wanted to explore other options.

I read about several Tacoma guys using double sided 3M vehicle adhesive for the A pillar. I'm trialing this right now and so far after a few hundred miles it's working okay. I've been watching the snorkel frequently and haven't noticed any movement at freeway speeds.

I'm not sure I can personally recommend it (yet) but others have tried it and seems to be working just fine. With the number of fasteners holding the snorkel on, I don't think it'll fly off. Worst case I'm imagining is it'll loosen/rattle and I'll have to take the fender liner off again to tighten the hardware.


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