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Old 03-12-2021, 01:21 AM #16
J.Derrick86 J.Derrick86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DASYOTA View Post
Does it power yours pretty well?
Currently I have the gain turned all the way down on the KTA450 and it still can hurt my ears on some songs! Definitely a lot of power coming from the system.

I need to dig back into behind the HU and turn off the filters from the output on the KTA450 and turn the gains up a bit so I can control everything from the head unit... One day.
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Old 03-13-2021, 01:55 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatronT4R View Post
Awesome post! Quick question about your subwoofer. A month ago I replaced the factory JBL sub with the same rockford sub that you posted. When volume on the stock headunit is around 40, it makes a knocking sound (almost like 2 wood blocks clanking together) when the beat hits. I contacted crutchfield and they had no answers for me as to why this is happening. I am wondering, have you experienced a similar sound with your install?

Also, I replaced only the subwoofer nothing else. Before purchasing, crutchfield recommended it as a direct replacement to the factory subwoofer. Stock headunit and amp all remain.
Patron, it's likely one of 2 things. Either you're clipping the JBL amp's subwoofer channels or you're bottoming the driver.

Years ago, someone did a tear down and identified the output chips in the JBL amp. IIRC, I think realistically, they only produced a clean 20-30 wpc into 2 ohms. The 45wpc claimed by Toyota was at 10% THD. So, as you can see, it wouldn't take much to run out of steam with the JBL amp.

The other problem might be the accuracy of R-F's specifications for the driver. Car audio marketing often plays fast-and-loose with specs. Assuming things haven't changed since I did the same JBL<>R-F driver swap 4 years ago, R-F claimed a little over 8mm of Xmax. There's no standard engineering definition for measuring Xmax and R-F doesn't state what they actually mean...so we can only simulate assuming it means usable cone travel. Without definition, they could actually mean peak-to-peak which gives only 4mm of one way (usable) excursion. Anyway. According to software simulations, the R-F should be able to handle about 50 watts per coil before reaching 8mm of one-way excursion in the factory .6 ft^3 box. However, if R-F actually means 8mm of peak-to-peak travel (4mm one way), then the JBL amp is capable of bottoming the driver before clipping.

When I initially installed the R-F, I got some heavy distortion at relatively low volumes. Apparently, the driver needed a little bit of break-in (loosen up the suspension), because the distortion went away fairly quickly, suggesting it was the amp clipping trying to drive the stiff suspension.

I would double check your mounting to make sure the driver seal is air tight. A small leak effectively removes the box's air spring and runs the driver infinite baffle, which it's not designed for and will bottom with very little power input.

I personally never go above mid-30s for volume myself...I'll try to push it next time I'm driving and see if I can drive it into distortion.
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:57 PM #18
Ruttyb Ruttyb is offline
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Thanks for this write up! I am doing my install (on a non-JBL system, but w/e) in a few weeks. Appreciate all the pics and detail!
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Old 12-28-2021, 01:32 AM #19
CheeryBruh CheeryBruh is offline
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Awesome information, thanks.

I was looking at the JL Audio C1-650x for the rear speakers in my 2005 4runner. Crutchfield says they don’t fit. You didn’t have any thing written on that install, I assume because it was quick & easy. Did you have any issues sticking them in your door?
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:03 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheeryBruh View Post
Awesome information, thanks.

I was looking at the JL Audio C1-650x for the rear speakers in my 2005 4runner. Crutchfield says they don’t fit. You didn’t have any thing written on that install, I assume because it was quick & easy. Did you have any issues sticking them in your door?
Did you ever get an answer regarding the C1-650x in the 4Runner? I'm facing the same predicament.

Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:05 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Derrick86 View Post
2003 Toyota 4Runner Limited V8

For all intents and purposes, this is meant to be a compiled version of what is out there in so many places. This will also be (to some extent) a re-hash of a problem that has already been gone over in all of those places.

I have a 2003 4Runner Limited with the factory JBL stereo system (NOT impressed...). From what is gathered from my readings as well as owning the vehicle, the JBL system is terrible. Hopefully, others that have this system have found the opposite. I did not. The Head Unit (HU) had both tape CD capabilities which were both not functional and out of the 10 speakers in the system, 3 were not blown or deteriorated beyond function.

Stereo system going in:
  • Alpine ILX-W650 (Head Unit)
  • Alpine KTA-450 (Speaker Amp)
  • JL Audio C1-690 (Front Component Speakers)
  • JL Audio C1-650x (Rear Coaxial Speakers)
  • Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 (8" Subwoofer - 2Ohm)
  • Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1 (Subwoofer Amp)

List of accessory components:
  • Rockford Fosgate RFK8-i (Subwoofer Amp wiring kit)
  • RadioPRO ADVANCED TY1A-RS (Steering Wheel Controls Adapter Kit)
  • PAC BKTOYK961 (HU Mounting Adapter kit and Bezel)
  • Metra 70-8117 (Wire harness to tap into factory output of the factory amp to speakers)
  • Metra 82-8146 (Front 6x9 Speakers, door adapter mounts)
  • Metra 82-8148 (Rear 6.5x6.5 Speakers, door adapter mounts)
  • Stinger RKFR69 (Foam kit for front speakers)
  • Stinger RKFR6 (Foam kit for rear speakers)
  • Stinger X Damping Material (Inside door and around speaker mounts)

Did you have any difficulty with the C1-650X in the rear door? Crutchfield indicates they won't fit in the rear door of the 4th Gen 4Runner. Did you have to modify anything to get them in there?

Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2022, 12:30 PM #22
J.Derrick86 J.Derrick86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivie View Post
Did you have any difficulty with the C1-650X in the rear door? Crutchfield indicates they won't fit in the rear door of the 4th Gen 4Runner. Did you have to modify anything to get them in there?

Thanks!
With the door adapter brackets that I bought as part of this, everything went right in. I don't remember there being any problems with any of the door speakers. Sub was a different story
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Old 01-18-2022, 07:22 PM #23
drivie drivie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Derrick86 View Post
With the door adapter brackets that I bought as part of this, everything went right in. I don't remember there being any problems with any of the door speakers. Sub was a different story
Thank you!

ETA: I just replaced the JBL front and rear door speakers in my 2005 with the C1-690 (components) and C1-650X (coaxial) speakers and the C1-650X's went in to the rear doors just fine using the Metra 82-8148 adapter plates without any fitment issues. I'm not sure why Crutchfield thinks they won't fit.

The biggest issue I experienced is that the Metra 82-8146 adapter plates for the 6x9's don't include any mounting screws so I had to use the ones included with the JL speakers which were too long. I cut them down with a dremel.

Also, I cut the factory connector off the JBL tweeters and soldered them to the in-line crossover that JL Audio provides for the tweeters included with the C1-690's. This seemed to work well.

Hope that helps anyone who reads this.

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Last edited by drivie; 01-30-2022 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 03-23-2022, 04:02 PM #24
4RunninFL 4RunninFL is offline
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To drivie, I was wondering did you wire your subwoofer in parallel or series? Halfway through this and greatly appreciate the write up it's been a huge help so far!
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Old 03-23-2022, 05:10 PM #25
drivie drivie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RunninFL View Post
To drivie, I was wondering did you wire your subwoofer in parallel or series? Halfway through this and greatly appreciate the write up it's been a huge help so far!
For the sub, I went with the Pioneer TSA2000LD2 which is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the stock sub. It's a dual voice coil shallow mount design and was very simple to install. Since it's DVC, I used the existing wiring for the stock sub and snipped off the factory connectors then used bare wire into each pole of the Pioneer. The worst part is getting to the stock sub. Hope that helps.

ETA: this video shows how to wire the new sub as far as positive/negative.
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Last edited by drivie; 03-23-2022 at 05:17 PM.
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