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Old 01-13-2021, 09:26 PM #1
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Sound upgrade: Bypass tweeters for 6x9?

I had one of my tweeters in the upper front door blow, so I thought I would simply install some nice 6x9s. It appears that the signal goes through the tweeter and then to the lower door panel speaker. Has anyone figured out the wiring to bypass the tweeters?
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Old 01-14-2021, 12:26 PM #2
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If I remember correctly from upgrading my speakers to components, the signal goes to the tweeters first. Then you’ll see a set of wires coming out of tweeter and back down the door to the woofer.

Try connecting from where the source enters the tweeter to the new 6x9s. You can use an adapter like this if necessary.

Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1992-up Toyota-built vehicles — adapt new speakers to the factory wiring plugs at Crutchfield




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Old 01-14-2021, 03:17 PM #3
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Unless you already have some coaxial 6x9 speakers, I highly recommend spending a little extra and getting a component set of speakers (6.5” with adapter, or 6x9, whatever suits your fancy).

Having the tweeter up high makes more of a difference than you may think!


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Old 01-14-2021, 04:19 PM #4
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Probably worth mentioning also that the factory "tweeter" is really a 2"ish full range driver that's high passed around 200Hz (my estimate by ear). It's not just playing high frequencies.

If you look at a frequency chart of musical instruments, you'll see that very few have fundamental frequencies above the 3,000 Hz that is the typical crossover frequency used by component systems. IOW, with true tweeters in the upper door locations, your ankles will be enjoying the majority of your musical content. Just some food for thought.
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Old 01-15-2021, 11:46 AM #5
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I second getting components. Even an entry level set will sound better than the 15ish year old speakers in there


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Old 01-16-2021, 07:02 PM #6
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Crutchfield has good deals and come with free adapters and all the wires are there too. I ordered 6.5" replacements all around recently and the previous owner had already upgraded the speakers, but the wires were just all broken or bad connections. Rears were buggered from the adapters shaking loose so I replaced those..

Keep the 6.9 up front. I actually disconnected my 8" sub behind my seat after getting everything shored up again, as it'll be just fine if you aren't an audiophile.
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:40 AM #7
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This is what I done did. Now we really have did it.
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Old 06-15-2021, 04:09 PM #8
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Im replacing my sub, and was looking at the rest of the speakers. They arent very impressive for a JBL system.
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Old 06-15-2021, 04:17 PM #9
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I'm working on this now; I have a 2003 SR5 with original factory system minus the head unit which had already been replaced. I'm going with Kenwood 6.5"s in all four doors, and Kicker tweeters because Crutchfield is damn near out of everything else.
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Old 06-15-2021, 04:47 PM #10
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If going component, there should 100% be a separate crossover to split the frequencies, then wires to speakers. By themselves, speakers definitely do not operate in a “take what frequencies it needs and sends the rest on”.

Do these speakers have built in crossovers? Component speakers should not…


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Old 06-21-2021, 03:35 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2021nightshade4x4 View Post
If going component, there should 100% be a separate crossover to split the frequencies, then wires to speakers. By themselves, speakers definitely do not operate in a “take what frequencies it needs and sends the rest on”.

Do these speakers have built in crossovers? Component speakers should not…


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The JBL front door setup isn't like a traditional aftermarket component set. Both the 6"x9" and the 65mm drivers receive full range signals from the amp. However, the 65mm driver wiring does contain a bass blocking cap (estimated around 200Hz, to my ear). Since the guys at JBL actually know a thing or two about speaker design, although I've never measured it, I would assume that the 6"x9" was designed with a natural high frequency roll-off that complements the 65mm driver to avoid major peaking or comb filtering.
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