01-19-2021, 10:06 PM
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#1
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Location: SW Indiana
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skid plate holes stripped, advice???
so as I'm coming up on 300k miles 2 of 4 front skid plate bolt holes are stripped. The front mount had been stripped since I got it and ran a bolt and nut. Rear mount has a nut welded inside i think. Anyone ever had to drill out and re-thread? Thanks in advance!!
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Eibach pro truck with WOR springs on 1st notch in front. 5100's in rear w/ FJ OEM takeoff coils. 255/70R18 on 18" Limited wheels. 1.5" spacers on rear(one trimmed a bit to correct lean). Gibson catback, 06+Headlamps, auxito 16K bulbs in high, low, and fogs!
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01-19-2021, 10:43 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIMILESV8SPORT
Anyone ever had to drill out and re-thread? Thanks in advance!!
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Yeah its a pain in the butt. I hated drilling upside down and tapping by hand while pushing up. Maybe my drills and tapped were mediocre quality or something, but it was not very fun
For another project, I used something like this on some double layer 1/8" (so essentially 1/4") and they worked decent as long as you make sure to clear the chips by reversing and lube it up. They might be easier since it gets everything done in one sweep
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01-19-2021, 11:04 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Toronto
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Real Name: Troy
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Tap em and use an oversize bolt if you are comfortable doing that
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Troy
2016 limited midnight metallic black
68k | LED headlights/fogs | remote start | block heater | LED interior
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01-20-2021, 12:04 AM
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#4
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I used Time-serts to fix the stripped holes. All 4 on my front skid were stripped. One on the front I couldn't save and ended up drilling it out to run a bolt and nut. The other 3 all have Time-serts. Sort of like Helicoil but better.
Amazon.com: Time-Sert M10x1.5 Thread Repair kit #1015: Home Improvement
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2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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01-20-2021, 12:09 AM
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#5
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You don't need to drill unless the bolts are stuck in there. Usually they just won't tighten.
Get a 8mmx1.25 tap and chase the threads out, get the same size bolt from lowes in stainless steel and you will be good to go. I think the length is 20mm.
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2005 Limited 4X4 V8 36,000 original miles. 265/70/17 BFG KO2s, Front: Bilstein 5100s set to 3rd perch with stock springs. Rear: OME 895E springs and driver OME trim packer driver side with 5100 shocks. 2" overall lift.
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01-20-2021, 12:41 AM
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#6
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skid plate holes stripped, advice???
I drilled and tapped all of mine to M10 just to have a bigger bolt. Stock thread is M8x1.25. I wanted to go that route but I couldn’t find one at ace hardware on a Sunday I was doing this, so I used M10x1.50.
I used my drill to tap instead of a tap handle by hand. You just need to use some thread cutting cream and go slow, in and out to remove chips.
Took me 30 min to do all of them.
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01-20-2021, 02:35 AM
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#7
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I have the same problem.. 3 of my 4 bolts have snapped off, whoever changed the oil before i got it must have way overtightened them and now i’ve been driving with zip ties holding it on the last few weeks. I plan on just drilling them out and through-bolting with a longer 10mm and a nut/ washer. A bit more crude but i already snapped a couple bits trying to drill them out the other day- drilling metal at that angle sucks!
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05 v8 Limited - Eibach Pro Lift Kit 3" Front, Ironman foam cell pro w/ 3" mid weight coils Rear - JBA High Caster UCAs - Coastal Offroad High Clearance Rear Bumper w/ Dual Swingarms - Toyo Open Country ATIII 285/70/17 - Bronze Raceline Clutch 17x9 Wheels - Raptor Liner Paint - Front Sway Bar Delete - Extended Rear Sway Bar Links - Rear Diff Breather - RCI 1/4" Aluminum Front Skid - Cali Raised DOM Rock Sliders
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01-20-2021, 09:00 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: TENNESSEE
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Real Name: Lynn Hobbs
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Rivet nuts
Check out a rivet nut kit. That's what I have used on mine and even a lot of farm equipment. Time-serts are great. Much better than heli-coils. I like the rivet nuts because I could use a larger drill bit and cut the frame and weld on the nut. I didn't have to be so precise drilling and tapping the nut welded inside the frame. They also sell stainless river nuts. Get you some corse thread stainless bolts for whatever size rivet nut you use. Be sure to put some never seize or grease on the threads of whatever bolts you use.
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01-20-2021, 10:29 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yourfriendcasey
I have the same problem.. 3 of my 4 bolts have snapped off, whoever changed the oil before i got it must have way overtightened them and now i’ve been driving with zip ties holding it on the last few weeks. I plan on just drilling them out and through-bolting with a longer 10mm and a nut/ washer. A bit more crude but i already snapped a couple bits trying to drill them out the other day- drilling metal at that angle sucks!
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Get some sharp bits. Go slow, start with small bits. Use some oil as cutting fluid.
Drill out for the next size up and use an M10 tap to retap for M10 bolts. No need to thru bolt.
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01-20-2021, 11:23 AM
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#10
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Location: Louisville KY
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I drilled the holes out with a metric 8.5mm drill bit, tapped with an M10x1.5 tap and replaced bolts with higher quality ones. Old motor oil for cutting fluid. Worked like a charm and very very easy
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01-20-2021, 11:32 AM
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#11
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Replace the bolts with studs. Easier to repair if stripped again
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01-20-2021, 02:39 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: SW Indiana
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Thanks everyone
Really digging the stud idea after going from M8 to M10
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Eibach pro truck with WOR springs on 1st notch in front. 5100's in rear w/ FJ OEM takeoff coils. 255/70R18 on 18" Limited wheels. 1.5" spacers on rear(one trimmed a bit to correct lean). Gibson catback, 06+Headlamps, auxito 16K bulbs in high, low, and fogs!
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01-20-2021, 04:26 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIMILESV8SPORT
Really digging the stud idea after going from M8 to M10
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all posts above are good options to do this. i had 2 of the 4 front skid bolts break on mine & it was very easy to drill them out to just under the thread size & then use a tap of the original size to clean out the threads & buy new correct size bolts & use anti seize. going one size bigger is fine but not needed if you can save the original threads.
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01-21-2021, 12:39 AM
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#14
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Location: Austin, TX
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I used M8 rivnuts
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01-21-2021, 01:01 AM
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#15
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I drilled the factory nuts out and welded new nuts on top of the factory nuts.
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