02-02-2021, 07:05 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Luis Valley, Colorado
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Starter going?
So, another chapter in my T4R saga!
04, 4wd, 316K...
All the work is done, all the trim is fixed, floor mats, the whole nine yards (see my other thread for work completed). I am LOVING this T4R!
That said, every once in a while, when starting it (cold start), occasionally the "cranking" of the engine prior it starting takes longer and seems a bit more labored. It always starts, but, occasionally the cold cranks seem to go on for longer than a warm start.
Could this be the sign of a starter that is on the way out? Plugs were just replaced and the battery is good to go.
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02-02-2021, 07:49 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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How old is your battery?
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*2017 4R TRD Pro, 01H5 Cement w/ Shrockworks dimpled tread plate sliders, Moroso oil catch-can, black powder-coated roof rails. (summer runner).
*2005 4R Sport Edition w/ Bilstein 5100's, Gen-5 brake upgrade, K&N cold air intake, cabin air intake mod, Falken Wildpeak AT3. (winter runner).
*1965 Pontiac GTO convertible, 4-speed w/tri-power, PHS documented. (born in Freemont CA).
*1962 Chevrolet C-10 (short-step) pickup, 4-speed, survivor. (born in Oakland CA).
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02-02-2021, 08:02 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Luis Valley, Colorado
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsgoat
How old is your battery?
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She unknown.
It was tested a week ago.
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02-02-2021, 08:28 PM
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#4
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Sounds like a fuel pump issue. If it spins, the starter is good. If it wont fire, its a fuel issue
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2007 4Runner Sport 4WD 4.0L 228,000 miles
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02-02-2021, 11:37 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Low fuel pressure would throw a code. Battery could be weak, could also be dirty battery connections. How was it "tested" specifically? Only happens cold?
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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02-03-2021, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Agree with the others, unlikely to be a starter if it is spinning. My vote is fuel pump, or since it seems temp related battery.
I'd give the leads on the battery a good cleaning, and reattach with dielectric grease. That will help if its purely a contact issue. If the battery itself is going that may be harder to detect. Maybe stick the battery in the freezer for a few hours and see if that replicates the issue? xD
If it does end up being a fuel pump, based on your other thread you might look at the URD fuel pumps. They make ones that move the filter out of the gas tank which is handy from a maintenance stand point.
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02-03-2021, 11:24 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Low fuel pressure would throw a code.
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Which code is low fuel pressure?
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02-03-2021, 11:47 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
Which code is low fuel pressure?
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Wouldn't specifically throw a code that means low fuel pressure, but the low pressure would affect your fuel trims and you would definitely get a code for that, I think I had 0171/0174 when mine went bad. Granted, could be a list of things that point to said code(s), but in my case it was narrowed down to fuel pump. So coming full circle, one could assume that if the pump was indeed the culprit, op would be experiencing additional symptoms. I feel like if the bendix on the starter isn't getting stuck, and it spins, then the issue has to do more with the current flowing to the starter, which points back to battery( has cold crank rating for a reason), or the cables....do your terminals appear clean or look like the beginning of a science experiment?
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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02-04-2021, 07:04 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Everything looks clean, and, the battery was tested by my local mechanic three weeks ago.
It seems like there is enough electricity getting to the starter, however. It's turnover "rate" seems really fast.
That said, I am open to ANY and ALL suggestions. I have no other symptoms at all regarding codes or fuel. Asides from the occasional harder start, it runs wonderfully.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
Wouldn't specifically throw a code that means low fuel pressure, but the low pressure would affect your fuel trims and you would definitely get a code for that, I think I had 0171/0174 when mine went bad. Granted, could be a list of things that point to said code(s), but in my case it was narrowed down to fuel pump. So coming full circle, one could assume that if the pump was indeed the culprit, op would be experiencing additional symptoms. I feel like if the bendix on the starter isn't getting stuck, and it spins, then the issue has to do more with the current flowing to the starter, which points back to battery( has cold crank rating for a reason), or the cables....do your terminals appear clean or look like the beginning of a science experiment?
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02-04-2021, 07:38 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Luis Valley, Colorado
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02-04-2021, 11:11 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcampo788
Everything looks clean, and, the battery was tested by my local mechanic three weeks ago.
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Do you know how the battery was tested? Was it actually load tested to see what it's capacity is under a load, or just putting a volt meter to it to see it's got volts. I ask, because a battery can show good voltage but have dead cells which affect storage capacity and load performance, and batteries tend to be weaker when they are cold. You can also pop the cell caps open and see if the water is low. Did the installer mark the date code stripe on top? Can't tell from the picture.
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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02-05-2021, 12:05 AM
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#12
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I just started having the exact same issue on my 04 with 190k. I'll be doing some searching this weekend and I'll report back with what I find. I'm thinking fuel issue at the moment after realizing that when it was taking longer to start if I hit the gas pedal it would fire up immediately.
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02-07-2021, 02:06 PM
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#13
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 477
Real Name: Elliott
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
Posts: 477
Real Name: Elliott
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So combining your two issues now, I'm wondering what your fuel trims are. The hard time starting cold and weak starter sound could both be related to a weak battery, but I'm wondering if you may have a vacuum leak muddying up the works. Don't think the circuitry is an issue at this point, more like a failing seal that leaks in the cold and makes everything run shitty until it's warmed up...
In your other thread you report changing spark plugs but not coils, could have a weak coil (in the cold), did not report doing anything to the fuel system. You could have an issue with any of those components including a leak in the cold which would make it hard to start.
Best advice at this point, find a reader that will provide you with live data so we can get an idea of what the engine is doing.
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2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
Last edited by 81runner; 02-07-2021 at 02:12 PM.
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02-16-2021, 12:16 PM
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#14
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could be a lot of things. starter, fuel pump, battery. i guess, it would be best to bring to a dealership or a mechanic with the right tool to have it troubleshooted. but with that so many miles, it could be that the starter is starting to fail.
if you don't have a tow policy, start getting it now so when it finally happens, you can have it towed to the nearest repair shop and deal with that at that time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcampo788
Everything looks clean, and, the battery was tested by my local mechanic three weeks ago.
It seems like there is enough electricity getting to the starter, however. It's turnover "rate" seems really fast.
That said, I am open to ANY and ALL suggestions. I have no other symptoms at all regarding codes or fuel. Asides from the occasional harder start, it runs wonderfully.
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