I am running Bilstein 5100's, about to drop in some OME 886's up front. I have an ARB Front Bumper, 275/70/17 BFG KO2's, SPC Upper Control Arms.

I have not got an alignment since getting new wheels and tires, or in a long time with lots of abuse - so that is due.

How do I approach getting this all done, and having the car drivable for a road trip to the dunes?

I am OK with paying a shop, but I really can't take much more time and really want to get everything stitched up for the road.


- I've got the heavy ARB bumper up front...
Questions:
1. Front SPC UCA's: What setting should I run these at?
2. What do I need to do after setting these, and reinstalling with new OME springs up front - in terms of alignment?
3. What should I do while I have my truck up on jack stands doing all of this to ensure I am setting myself, and the alignment shop, up for success??


Answers
A. Front Bilstein 5100's: What setting should I run these at? Update: lowest/stock setting/0" - Thanks, Heffernan!!!!


I sincerely appreciate anyone who has read this far, and is willing to help this fool out!

OME 886 springs are stiff (650lb coil rate) and tall, I wouldn't adjust the clip to anything other then the bottom/stock setting.

You are a legend, sir. This will help me not break things, or die.

How much is the front lifted?

My concern is that you have:

--Top of the line bumper
--Top of the line UCA
--Great tires for offroading
--Stiff, capable springs

Yet:
--Small basic shocks, designed for use with stock springs/weight.

Those 5100s will have a ton of work to do on rebound, especially with any lift. I would expect poor offroad performance and shortened life span.

If you only do short, crawling trails and smoother dirt roads, maybe that can work. But the 5100s will be set for pain on any longer/faster rough dirt roads/high clearance trails.

The 6112 on 650lb springs with 2.0 resi in the rear (Fox, Icon) would be a better fit and if that is overkill and the rear is lightly sprung then the 6112/650lb front with 5100 rear would work.

If you are getting OME 886's might as well get their shocks too since they are valved for their springs. I have a bumper, winch, V8, full skids and 886's are firm and tall. I've beat on it pretty good and has served me well.

Why do you recommend OME upfront and 2.0 resi in rear? At that point, why not go full insane-o with resi? I'm down, sign me up.

To your point, bought 5100's and UCA's 5 years ago together. Got the bumper after losing mine shortly after that. Bought the KO2s, some front powerstops, and front OME 886 springs a week ago to finally move away from stock suspension components all around.

Already installed heavy rear OME springs (896's) & diff drop, because it's easy. Have heavy springs because average trunk load is above 500lbs with bass box, my recovery kit, extra battery, not to mention roof load - and will be getting rear bumper yet, too.

OME 60004 vs OME 60005 vs. Fox vs. Icon - which would you get? Any others you recommend to check out? Pretty open to swapping all 4 5100's out, just have been too busy trying to get one step forward on the springs, wheels, brakes, tires, etc. And watching Dogecoin.

Ugh, I am not recommending OME with 5100 by any means. I said 6112, which is made by Bilstein.

Anyway, @Fern is spot on, the value solution will be OME shocks to go with OME springs. What I proposed will be either more road friendly (6112 on standard springs with 5100 rear) or more offroad friendly at speed than OME (6112 on 650lb springs and Icon or Fox rear) depending on which option you choose. But the OME should last longer than the Fox or Icon rear would between rebuilds.

I said resi because 1/ IFP rears won't last long if pushed offroad and 2/ they should be more comfortable when pushed offroad.

Mistook Bilstein GmbH PN:6112 for OME (PN:60004/5) Guess the first digit of '6' in the convention threw me off. Hopefully you'll make it through my egregious mistake. Thanks for clarifying with manufacturer and part number. Been working on my track car lately, so guess I am not as sharp on the T4R 4th gen suspension cult's lexicon as you may be. My deepest apologies for the mix up. Did some more reading, so hopefully I operate in the same language as you now. At least I know OME isn't OEM, difference between their and there, etc. Anyway,

Had quite a few overlanders tell me to stay clear of Icon since we will be well away from any dealers of it, in addition to reported leaking after prolonged use on snowy & bumpy roads - where this thing will spend the next 90k miles of its lift.

Less worries of leaks with the Fox vs. Icon from that group, but said that K.I.S.S. is never an overall bad philosophy to implement when planning build for remote-area vehicles. As such,

(Front: Bilstein 6112)/(Rear: OME 60005+896) was recommended from them - what do you think of that combo ?

Seems you already like 6112 up front, which is crazy - because that would mean more than one person agrees on at least one component of a suspension setup. Wow, I may have to alert the presses at once!

I was surprised to learn Bilstein 6112 is more durable than the OME Nitrocharger Sports 60005. Is this true, (can anyone verify)? ARB is so well-known for making parts for overlanding applications... remote areas, high durability, etc... having a tough time wanting to go elsewhere based on first hand reviews, and my personal experience with previous ARB/OME parts.

Sounds like I would gain some more extension from the OME 60005+896 in rear than I would get installing the Bilstein 6112's in rear. I know people that run the OME in rear on toyota trucks, and have exposed them to extreme-duty every week with no issues to report - but also know that a resi shock will stand up to knocking out 200 miles of gravel/mud/snow/shit roads, day after day, much more comfortably and efficiently than a monotube without resi will.

Also heard a couple guys that run/install overland suspensions on toyotas that once you digest the price, race shocks are phenomenal - except for that rebuild times were kicked between the legs with COVID restrictions, and some random shops may scratch their head if they have to work on it.

Heard one guy had to wait 6 weeks on a BP-51 rebuild in August '20 - so for me, if I went that route and a OME BP-51 goes down in Yukon Territory or Northern/Central AK, I'm hosed.

As such, I would carry either a full spare OME BP-51 or the old bilstein 5100's in my spares kit on those journeys just in case - they can live along side my spare SPC UCA ball joints, tierod ends, etc...

I like the thought of the OME BP-51's, but the cost makes me pucker quite a bit. Anyone have input running these on a 4th gen, all I have heard of is 5th gens and some trucks?

Do you guys really love the Fox resis? Anyone that runs them hard, off paved roads primarily (like a daily, "I live in the middle of nowhere" kind of thing)?? This 4th gen is going to live out in the Northern bush - it is cold, rough, and there aren't a lot of options, or people, around when something takes a shit. Definitely a different scenario than living and running in the southwest, which I know from experiencing both living conditions/areas.

Front Bilstein 6112s / Rear OME BP-51: sounds pretty close to what you are recommending with remote resi for rears, but just keeps stuff in the ARB family - which I prefer based on hearing other's experiences in remote areas that aren't flat/dry hardly ever. Would love all inputs I can get on resi preference for rear.

Going to read some more on different resi's for the rear - but for long term reliability, almost makes more sense to go monotube w/ new identical backups over resi shocks w/ mismatched 5100's as spare (because I'm not balling like you guys, full set of BP-51's with at least a full spare or two isn't an option right now - but if I could, that's where I'd be headed).

It is on factory springs still, with Bilstein 5100's - so it is not really. I have a box of returnable 886s in hand. Just trying to decide if I should run them, or get:
a) Front Bilstein 6112's w/ the corresponding springs
b) Front OME 60005's and run these OME 886's
c) Front BP-51's
d) Something else

(Front: Bilstein 6112)/(Rear: OME 60005+896) was recommended from them - what do you think of that combo ?

I don't like it at all, completely different types of shocks

Seems you already like 6112 up front, which is crazy - because that would mean more than one person agrees on at least one component of a suspension setup. Wow, I may have to alert the presses at once!

Haha, well so much for that! (see above)

I was surprised to learn Bilstein 6112 is more durable than the OME Nitrocharger Sports 60005. Is this true, (can anyone verify)?

I don't think that's what I said. Probably I said something about more durable in terms of performance? The 6112 is an awkward shock, a category of 1. It is way ahead of all those small shocks without being quite at the level of the standard 2.5 offerings in that it is not rebuildable/tunable. In terms of longevity, they are probably a wash. Don't forget that twin tubes can nominally last longer because they don't leak easily even if they no longer work well. So the longevity of twin tubes is a matter of perspective (do they leak? vs do they work as new?)

As such, I would carry either a full spare OME BP-51 or the old bilstein 5100's in my spares kit on those journeys just in case.

Carrying a 550$ rear spare shock is extreme. An old 5100 sounds like the ticket.

Front Bilstein 6112s / Rear OME BP-51: sounds pretty close to what you are recommending with remote resi for rears, but just keeps stuff in the ARB family - which I prefer based on hearing other's experiences in remote areas

Now this is interesting! Yes, I considered this but went ahead and ordered Bilstein 8100 instead. Too many unknowns with the BP51 for me and I am not that much of an ARB fan anyway.

My plan B for my 6112/650lb front combo was/is actually the Dobinsons MRA rear shock. It has the most adjustability of any non-bypass shocks and comes with factory style bushings instead of worthless on a DD/adventure rig race inspired components. It is DIY rebuildable. I used to be the guy who did not know what is behind the wheels. Over time, I came to consider 100% of suspension work DIY mandatory and also basic steering or anything that may need to be done on trail one day, including CV axles and driverhafts.

I agree with keeping it simple. I personally only have aftermarket shocks, springs, and underbody armor. Will add an Odyssey Performance battery soon but no AM electrical work, just the battery.

It is fun to chat about this!

I guess just trying out an all-OME twin tubes setup first makes sense. Then you will know for sure if you want/need more performance than that.

Well you've sent me down the rabbit hole even farther! In a good way, it looks like!

My 5100's have amazed me with the beating they have taken and durability, even on an incomplete setup - and I attribute that largely to the GD&T and QC that goes hand in hand with German manufacturing.

That said, I had no clue Bilstein made a 8100 until you mentioned it.

Holy shit, the things are amazing - and I can rebuild them? Whaaaa?!!?!?

Okay - you have a 5th gen. Only very minor differences between 4th and 5th gen suspension.... Do you know of anyone else running them, say - on a 4th gen?

Going to dive through the forums now... but these seem pretty bad ass.

A forum member who lives nearby installed the 8112s (the 8100s are on a backorder) and says they put him on a cloud over bumps.

The 8000-series is definitely a want, not a need. The 8112 come with the same standard springs as the 6112 and are also available with the same 650lb springs as the 6112. Since you have a bumper, you would need the 650 lb springs for sure.

In principle, the 8100 is user rebuildable and the 8112 front is factory rebuildable, which would add cost and time.

I am planning on 8100 rear with the 6112/650 front and 8112 only years down the road. But who knows what will happen. If the 8100s drag on forever, I may need a plan B like Dobinsons MRA.