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Old 09-19-2015, 09:54 AM #1
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Helpful hints passing speaker wire to doors ?

I changed out the JBL system and now have a Kenwood DDX 371 with infinity speakers in the back doors and upgraded JBL speakers in the front doors. I have a dedicated JL JX 250 1 channel amp in the back with a 7 inch JL subwoofer (copied from one of the great guys on this forum who posted his build thread). I have a JL JX 360 4 channel amp dedicated amp to power the door speakers. I have run the power lines directly to the battery, grounded the amps to the body run the input rca cables to the amps from the head unit. All I have left is to run new 12 gauge monster cable from the amps to the door speakers (subwoofer done) and hook up fuse to the amps. This is where I am a hung up. Does anyone have any tricks on getting the wire into the doors ? The rear doors look doable but the front door wiring harness appears to enter from the back of the dashboard . I guess I could approach it backwards once I drop the door panel and send a fish wire through the rubber gasketed wiring harness sleeve, hope it comes out where I can see it, then hope I can pull the wire (pretty thick) through the tight access sleeve in the door. Any better ideas?
Another question I have is about the remote line to the amps. I assume this what is used to tell the amp to power on and off when the car turns on and off. Right now my head unit is dropped and I was going to attach both remote lines to the auxiliary 12v wire of my headunit. I assumed this was a live wire because there was another wire attached to it. Is it ok to hook both amp remote wires to the same wire . I will test it before I put the headunit back in . Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:28 AM #2
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Hard for me to remember from when i did my remote wire but i think its the gray wire on the factory harness going to the radio
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:42 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoossi View Post
I changed out the JBL system and now have a Kenwood DDX 371 with infinity speakers in the back doors and upgraded JBL speakers in the front doors. I have a dedicated JL JX 250 1 channel amp in the back with a 7 inch JL subwoofer (copied from one of the great guys on this forum who posted his build thread). I have a JL JX 360 4 channel amp dedicated amp to power the door speakers. I have run the power lines directly to the battery, grounded the amps to the body run the input rca cables to the amps from the head unit. All I have left is to run new 12 gauge monster cable from the amps to the door speakers (subwoofer done) and hook up fuse to the amps. This is where I am a hung up. Does anyone have any tricks on getting the wire into the doors ? The rear doors look doable but the front door wiring harness appears to enter from the back of the dashboard . I guess I could approach it backwards once I drop the door panel and send a fish wire through the rubber gasketed wiring harness sleeve, hope it comes out where I can see it, then hope I can pull the wire (pretty thick) through the tight access sleeve in the door. Any better ideas?
Another question I have is about the remote line to the amps. I assume this what is used to tell the amp to power on and off when the car turns on and off. Right now my head unit is dropped and I was going to attach both remote lines to the auxiliary 12v wire of my headunit. I assumed this was a live wire because there was another wire attached to it. Is it ok to hook both amp remote wires to the same wire . I will test it before I put the headunit back in . Thanks for the help.
I answered one of my own question, the amp turn on is the blue/white wire. Now to attempt to run the speaker wire. I guess I can run both amp remote turn one to the same turn on wire?
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2003 SR5 V8, Michelin Premier LTX, new in 2017. Kenwood DDX 371, Kenwood CM 220 Back up camera, hands free. Infinity front and speakers, I added soundproofing insulation in doors. Brand new dash (than you Toyota) , Weathertec mats and window deflectors,Philip HID fogs in projector housing upgrade. Morimoto D2S Bixenon projector headlight upgrade mod, LED interior lights swap. LED signal bulbs, LED driving lights,Satoshi grill ( (done by Gaterose) , JL 300W front and JL Audio 200W rear amps and JL 7 inch subwoofer. 163,000 miles . For sale $6000.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:04 AM #4
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With the door panels off, I think there are 2 bolts that hold the harness on the door, lube up the wire with wd40 and pass it through. 12 is overkill but 16 is fine, another tool to use for wire fishing without damaging paint is use a long ziptie. Is the new amp going to be under the front seats or in the back.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:36 PM #5
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Thanks. I was able to get it through. You are right, 12 gauge was ridiculous . One amp went under front seat, other on shelf in the back. Everything works but now my rear view camera stopped working . PIA.
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2003 SR5 V8, Michelin Premier LTX, new in 2017. Kenwood DDX 371, Kenwood CM 220 Back up camera, hands free. Infinity front and speakers, I added soundproofing insulation in doors. Brand new dash (than you Toyota) , Weathertec mats and window deflectors,Philip HID fogs in projector housing upgrade. Morimoto D2S Bixenon projector headlight upgrade mod, LED interior lights swap. LED signal bulbs, LED driving lights,Satoshi grill ( (done by Gaterose) , JL 300W front and JL Audio 200W rear amps and JL 7 inch subwoofer. 163,000 miles . For sale $6000.
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Old 02-12-2021, 07:52 AM #6
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Can I ask what you ended up doing to get the wire through? I’m running into the same problem.
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