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Old 03-06-2021, 10:53 PM #31
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Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Good to hear. I was concerned with the spacer. Personally, I went with custom fit driveshafts, front and rear. Had them made at a local driveshaft shop and they did a great job. Ran around $600 for both, so not exactly cheap. Whole project was still right under a grand tho. Cheaper than trying to fix the stock tcase IMO. And more reliable.
Yeah doing new driveshafts would be the better option, but more money and I couldn't use my spare driveshaft on wheeling trips if needed anymore.
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Old 03-06-2021, 11:20 PM #32
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New Case Installed! (Mechanical Stuff)

So after spending 10 hours on Friday and 5 hours today, the FJ case is in and works! Took it for a test drive after, got up to highway speeds, put it in 4Lo, and everything is perfect. So now for some photos!

First, here's the center console area before any cutting was done:




Ended up cutting the hole in the floor way too big but we really had no idea what we were working with to start so we just cut away as needed:




So if you look at the pictures so far, we determined that we needed to lose the front left mounting bolt for the transmission shifter housing, which ended up being a good choice cause the shifter hugs it pretty tightly when in 4Lo. But the transmission shifter is mounted plenty sturdily with the other 3 bolts. You can see where we cut out a small section towards the rear at first then started working our way forward as needed. I think I also lost a hole for a clip that held a wiring harness in place but that's not a big deal.

All of the other writeups I've seen on this have been done on V8 trucks with the 5 speed which would have pushed the shifter farther back. Having the 4 speed A340F, my shifter ended up being about 3-4" farther forward, making it really difficult to clear everything. We cut pretty much all the way up to the yaw rate sensor (silver box bolted to the floor).

To cut out the hole, we used a combination of a cheap harbor freight body saw and then a sawzall. It was a slow and painful process but it was better than using a grinder and getting grinding dust everywhere and throwing tons of sparks in the interior.

Just for fun, here's my hand for reference on how large the hole ended up being:




Even though its a large hole, it's nice cause I can take the shifter out of the transfer case without removing the entire case from the vehicle.

So, now on to making the shifter work. This was the most troublesome part of the swap and took my buddy and I about 5 hours of fitting to get it located the way we want. The goal was to get the shifter into the coin pocket w/ the cigarette outlet and avoid trimming any of the center console trim. This was an iterative process and involved probably 10+ test fits of the shifter. The end result was cutting the shifter off and welding in a roughly 3" piece of 1/4" flat bar to get the shifter farther driver and towards the rear. We ended up also having to bend the flat bar up and twist it slightly. There's really no good way to explain this part except for mess with it until you're happy with how it fits.

Another issue we ran into was that the shifter was not long enough, so the shift knob was going to interfere with the edges of the center console trim. To get around this, we got two nuts and a bolt from the store. Welded two nuts together and ran those onto the factory threads of the shifter. Then we welded the head of the bolt to those nuts to get about a 2" extension. Just used an M12x1.25 bolt which is standard threading for shift knobs. I also chose to go with the Marlin turtle shift knob cause I like Marlin

Shifter:




Shift Knob:




Close-up of the Extension:




Before spoiling the cool part of how the shifter fits with the center console trim, let's look at driveshafts. Rear driveshaft turned out to be really simple. I bought a 1.25" driveshaft spacer from 4Crawler Offroad and installed it between the rear driveshaft and the transfer case flange. Installed:




For the front driveshaft, I didn't have to make any modifications. All I did was pull the slip out some more and it bolted right up with plenty of spline engagement left. The front driveshaft changed the length of the dirty section of the driveshaft in the next picture. You can see the line between what was previously exposed and what was previously inside the slip:




Now . . . . shifter fitment!! So I haven't installed all of the center console trim yet, but I'm 99% sure this will work based on the testing method I did. All we did to help place the shifter in the coin pocket was repeatedly place the corresponding trim piece on top of the transmission shifter and line it up as if it were installed. To explain this better visually, here's some pics of the shifter positions.

2WD:




4Hi:




4Lo:




So I call this an absolute win! Shifter is at a really comfortable height as well and doesn't get in the way of access to anything else.

I also wired up the dash lights to work with the new transfer case with the center diff lock light indicating 4Hi and 4Lo to 4Lo. I'll make a post tomorrow with some more details on how that was done.

So everything works but there's still a lot to button up:
- Make sheet metal plate and/or rubber piece to seal the floor as much as possible and reduce noise (chain-drive cases and road noise are super loud)
- Install ADD harness to get the ADD to work
- Wire up an ABS/Traction Control bypass switch
- create method of retaining rear AC (got an idea)

I'm hoping to get all of this done within the next few weeks but school has been super busy so we'll see. Overall I'm so happy it worked and it's cool to be the first (possibly but could be wrong) person with the 4 Speed transmission to install an FJ case.

I couldn't have done this without the help of my friends, so feel free to check out their Instagram pages to see their cool builds. One is a 22RE toyota buggy that runs on propane, and the other is a Jeep Cherokee that is built properly and not hacked like 99% of other Cherokees.

Instagram Handles:
@THOMAS _previti (Toyota Buggy)
@the_green_dumpster (Jeep Cherokee)

Stay tuned for more updates on wiring, sealing the floor, and retaining rear AC!!
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Old 03-07-2021, 12:58 AM #33
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Nice job! I'd say you did a pretty damn good job with the shift placement. Here's how mine came out. This is in 2WD.

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Old 03-07-2021, 10:20 AM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Nice job! I'd say you did a pretty damn good job with the shift placement. Here's how mine came out. This is in 2WD.

Nice! What shift boot did you use? I still gotta figure that out as well. How'd you attach the boot to the center console trim?
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:34 AM #35
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Nice! What shift boot did you use? I still gotta figure that out as well. How'd you attach the boot to the center console trim?
Just a fake leather cheapy I found at Autozone. There's enough plastic hanging down from the opening on that top bezel to drill some holes in and I used zip ties to secure the boot around it. Just cut small slits in the bottom of the boot and ran black zip ties thru the hole I drilled and the boot. Worked pretty good that way and I can still use the boot to hold various things if I don't need to use the shifter.
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Old 03-08-2021, 05:55 AM #36
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Ended up cutting the hole in the floor way too big but we really had no idea what we were working with to start so we just cut away as needed:

I can't imagine trying to tackle this with the 4spd trans and no body lift. I feel like the 1.5" body lift you have was absolutely necessary. I've seen it as helpful but not absolutely necessary for the 5spd trans - could be wrong.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:14 AM #37
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I can't imagine trying to tackle this with the 4spd trans and no body lift. I feel like the 1.5" body lift you have was absolutely necessary. I've seen it as helpful but not absolutely necessary for the 5spd trans - could be wrong.
Yeah for the 4 speed I would agree that it is essential to have the body lift. To be honest, the 1.5" was still tight. Really glad I just happened to have the body lift already.
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:47 AM #38
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Yeah for the 4 speed I would agree that it is essential to have the body lift. To be honest, the 1.5" was still tight. Really glad I just happened to have the body lift already.
Well either way you made it look easy. Good job!
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:18 PM #39
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Quote:
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I can't imagine trying to tackle this with the 4spd trans and no body lift. I feel like the 1.5" body lift you have was absolutely necessary. I've seen it as helpful but not absolutely necessary for the 5spd trans - could be wrong.
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Yeah for the 4 speed I would agree that it is essential to have the body lift. To be honest, the 1.5" was still tight. Really glad I just happened to have the body lift already.
I did a 1" body lift for mine with the A750. A little tight but I wasn't willing to go any higher. It definitely helped with the whole install tho!
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Old 03-12-2021, 01:31 AM #40
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Any final pics or updates?
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Old 03-12-2021, 01:40 AM #41
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Any final pics or updates?
Coming soon! School got super busy right before Spring Break so I've been a little behind on finishing up the transfer case stuff. Hoping to have final pics and updates in the next few days.
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Old 03-14-2021, 08:23 PM #42
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Wiring Part 1: Dash Lights

Finally had time to finish everything up for the swap and get it posted here! First part I'll discuss is wiring up the FJ case position sensors to get the dash lights to work when the case is shifted. The picture below shows the 3 position sensors on the case.

Sensor 1 indicates neutral
Sensor 2 indicates 4Lo
Sensor 3 indicates 4WD





I decided to wire up Sensor 3 and Sensor 2, leaving Sensor 1 unconnected. For my dash lights, the center diff lock light turns on when I go from 2WD to 4WD, and 4Lo turns on for 4Lo.

To do this, I used my Chilton manual to get the wire colors on the 4WD computer plugs that correspond to the dash lights I want to wire up. The 4WD computer is located behind a black trim piece underneath the glovebox. One screw and 2 retaining tabs hold the trim on.

You need to remove the tape/sheathing covering both plugs that connect to the 4WD computer. You're gonna connect two wires from each plug to one another, then leave the 4WD computer unplugged as you no longer need it. Connect the red/blue wire on one plug to the green/red wire on the other plug. Similarly, connect the yellow wire to the brown/white wire for the 4Lo dash light. Follow the wiring diagram in your manual to be certain that the correct dash lights are connected.

Austin's build thread has some better pictures of the wires than what I could take, it's a good reference for this swap as well as the twin stick mod: A-Ha's Build Thread





The yellow and red/blue wires connect to the large plug that used to connect to the old transfer case actuator. So that's where you can connect power for each sensor on the FJ case to those same yellow and red/blue wires to finish up the dash lights. Then just ground the sensors; I grounded them to one of the shifter bolts.

That's it for dash lights! Next up is getting the ADD to actuate and wiring up an ABS killswitch.
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Old 03-14-2021, 08:38 PM #43
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Wiring Part 2: ADD Actuator and ABS Killswitch

With the FJ case, you no longer have control over the ADD actuator on the front diff to allow power to be delivered to the passenger CV axle. To fix this, you can wire up the actuator to a manual switch. I bought a complete ADD harness from a fellow 4Runner driver on Instagram (@spudrunner_t4r) that includes the correct plug to connect it to the ADD actuator and a switch. Harness also includes enough wire length to get the switch into the cab and place it to the left of the steering wheel.

Here's the harness:





Just hook up the harness to power and ground (I wired mine to an aftermarket fuse box I have) and you're all set! To actuate the ADD, hold the switch downward until the backlight comes on. Disengage ADD by holding the switch upward until the light turns off.

Now, the FJ case will require an ABS killswitch to disengage the ABS when you're in 4Lo as suggested by @BlackWorksInc since the ABS and traction control systems may be unhappy on certain terrain (see post #17 on this thread).

I followed the steps in this YouTube video to wire up the killswitch: ABS Killswitch Install

All wiring for the FJ transfer case swap should now be complete! Here's the switches installed:





Here's a video showing everything working as intended (click on the image to view the video):


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Old 03-14-2021, 09:17 PM #44
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Interior Part 1: Closing Up the Hole in the Floor

To cover the floor hole as best as I could, I used some self-tapping screws to secure some 1/8" rubber down to the floor. I cut slits in the rubber for the shifter to move around in without tearing the rubber too much.





Then, I added a second, smaller piece of rubber that is attached to the shifter and travels with it to help cover the slits in the bottom piece of rubber. I attached the small rubber piece to the shifter using a small hose clamp:




That does it for covering the floor!
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Old 03-14-2021, 09:24 PM #45
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Interior Part 2: Rear AC

To somewhat retain rear AC function, I followed Austin's (@A-Ha) method of cutting the plastic AC duct and using hose to connect the ends. I used a 1.25" corrugated hose intended for a dishwasher drain to connect the ends of the AC duct while routing the hose in between the center console bracket and the shifter.





The duct end that goes into the dash stays in place rather well, but the connection to the rear of the center console would move around. To fix this, I just added 2 self-tapping screws through the side of the center console and into the remaining AC duct piece:





There's barely enough room for the hose, and the hose does put some pressure on the shifter. But, this helps prevent the shifter from rattling around too much. Not much air comes out of the rear vents, but it's better than absolutely nothing.
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