The last thing I needed to do to completely finish up this swap is add a shift boot and a USB outlet since this swap removes the cigarette outlet.

I bought a generic dual-port USB outlet from Amazon, about $10.

For the shift boot, I used a generic shift boot from Autozone that is $10, similar to @xtremewlr (see post #33).

I cut holes in the shift boot and drilled holes into the center console trim all around the pocket where the shifter goes and attached the boot to the console trim using zip ties:





And installed:





That concludes the FJ transfer case swap! I'm sure I've left out details throughout so please ask questions in this thread or PM me so I can add more info to this thread for others to benefit from. Hopefully I'll be able to get out and wheel soon to test it all out. Until then, happy wheeling everyone!

That boot works pretty well, doesn't it? Nice work man, came out really good!

Nice job doing this swap.

Funny we all use similar shift boots.



Also consider adding the single stick version of this to seal the heat coming up the hole area. I added sound damping and the rubber shift boot to help with noise on mine.





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I had bought a twin stick for the swap but haven't used it yet. I took the twin boot and cut it in half and sealed up the FJ stick with that.

Nice pretty much like mine except I added sound damping material aka dynamat around the entire bare floor to cut down on noise, the noise even with sheeting sealed still kind of loud alone.

Yeah, I'll be doing that at some point. Probably when I get around to replacing the carpet. I'll also remake the cover plate for the hole that I cut into the trans tunnel since it's 2 pieces right now.

I probably should do some more to reduce noise coming through the floor but tbh, it seems about as quiet as it was before and I usually have my music cranked up loud anyways.

For those interested in the ADD harness. 12th State Offroad has them in stock. ADD actuator wiring harness | 12th State Offroad

Nice work! If/when my T-case bites the dust, I’m going to do the same swap.

Did the swap a couple weeks ago. Really not hard at all and worth the time and money invested to do it. Lots of time saved thanks to Ryan documenting his swap.
Couple things I found:
1. I did the 1.5”bl because it was said that it might be required, I don’t think that was the case. It made it easier in some ways but makes it harder to get the shifter fitting correct because the farther the body is from the t-case the more room the shifter needs to clear stuff.
2. To make the shifter fabrication easier take the shifter apart and spin it 180deg and reassemble. You’ll know that I’m talking about once you’ve seen it.
3. Here is a pic of my floor cut which was just enough room.



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I'm considering buying an '03 V6 (4spd), and a little concerned about sticking actuators in these. It works for now, but being a Texas truck, chances are I was the first to engage 4WD in a decade+ (as would just about any 4th gen from here)... so I'm doing a little pre-planning.

From the looks of this thread, should I hold out for a V8? I hate to let this one go, the price is right...

Also, is it possible that OP's conversion could have have been done without a body lift?

What year/engine is yours?

Does the FJ case at least offer lower gearing?

No. It offers manual 4wd shift, eliminating the electronic actuator and all it's potential problems.

So after my last long trip out west I started having problems with 4 lo out there.

I hunted down an FJ case locally. I saw the thread on how to delete the ADD up front. Also going to do a twin stick for 2lo, which would be really nice when dry and running mountain passes.

I’ll eventually be adding ARB’s front and rear. So I’m not too worried about the ADD stuff.

Any good YouTube videos on rebuilding one of these FJ cases? I’d like to put in new bearings and seals.

have you already sourced the twin sticks? My suggestion, keep it simple and forego that mod and just keep the j-pattern shifter. I swapped over to the twin-stick mod in mine (primarily because the junkyard elected NOT to include the factory shifter and I couldn't find anything cheaper than $600 for a replacement) and can tell you I have used 2lo LITERALLY 2 times: one was to make sure it works after I swapped it in, and the second on a trail before quickly realizing that 4hi was significantly better than 2lo. I just haven't found the need or application for 2lo. Especially if you haven't/arent planning to upgrade the rear axle..

it is significantly easier to package and seal the single shifter vs the twin sticks. I also found that when I'm in 2Hi and try to accelerate from a dead stop with heavy throttle, my t-case wants to "pop" into 4hi and clunks as the synchro slips and tries to engage. I'm not 100% certain if this is a result of modifying the case to accept the twin sticks or not, but I can eliminate the sound by holding the 2hi/4hi stick selector forward under heavy acceleration.

As far as seals and bearings.. there's really nothing much to these cases and you have access to everything once you crack it open.. just be mindful of the synchronizer hub/springs when you take it apart.. they'll shoot out and you'll never find them again. I have personally yet to hear anyone having to replace bearings on a t-case so you may be overthinking that.. the seals are like any other seal when it comes to replacing. I elected to not change anything on my junkyard t-case that has god knows how many miles and it has 0 issues for the past year of use.