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Old 07-02-2021, 04:28 PM #196
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Good to know, thank you!


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Originally Posted by aemravan View Post
I got some I used before from McMaster, the larger one could be a little narrower if you can find but these worked out pretty good. Iíd highly recommend swapping out to these as soon as you get them and forget about it. It was a bit of a pain to cut the clamps off on the car.






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Old 07-03-2021, 01:08 PM #197
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Good to know, thank you!

You want these with the smooth edges to prevent the sharp edge digging in to the rubber boot if you get sendy on the install.

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Old 07-03-2021, 05:12 PM #198
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You want these with the smooth edges to prevent the sharp edge digging in to the rubber boot if you get sendy on the install.

McMaster-Carr


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Weíll dangÖ if I knew those were available thatís what I would have gone with , maybe next time around haha


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Old 07-05-2021, 11:54 AM #199
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Waiting to load a truck at work on my day off, glad I brought my camera with me since they are running 3 hours late. At least got a chance to take some pics. More to come






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Old 07-05-2021, 05:36 PM #200
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Weíll, these definitely did not disappoint. So glad I grabbed my camera.

T4R Warehouse | Flickr










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Old 07-06-2021, 01:02 AM #201
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Yours is probably the cleanest taco swap Iíve seen. All the others seem to not have tried as hard and once you take a long look the panels donít quite line up as clean as yours. Also like how well the 4R coastal bumper worked out with the taco front end!


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Old 07-06-2021, 06:34 AM #202
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Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
Yours is probably the cleanest taco swap Iíve seen. All the others seem to not have tried as hard and once you take a long look the panels donít quite line up as clean as yours. Also like how well the 4R coastal bumper worked out with the taco front end!


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Thanks man, much appreciated. When I decided to do it I decided to do it the right way. Took quite a bit longer but certainly paid off in the end. I absolutely love the coastal bumper with the updated front end as well.


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Old 07-22-2021, 08:00 AM #203
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A quick update on the car:
Went though the tedious process of wiring in a head unit I got from my buddy. Took a few more connectors and adapters but ended up working out great. I now have awesome sound, smart phone compatibility and cameras that Iím working on wiring in.

The goal is to have a front and rear camera,as well as 2 under the car in the case I donít have a spotter.




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Old 07-26-2021, 07:51 AM #204
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Well, after hours of wiring and testing on the car I scrapped the idea of multiple cameras/undercar cameras, etc and just wired in 1 standard back up camera that I can call up on demand, not just in reverse. Too much wiring for the others for something I'll realistically probably never use.

After I put in the new head unit I quickly found out how old and tired my factory JBL speakers were. The sub was blown, but the speakers were still hanging on a bit, however I decided that if I'm going to change one thing I may as well do it all. Well, $400 bucks later via Crutchfield and I have all 8 speakers/tweeters and the rear sub replaced. I elected to disconnect and scrap the dashboard speaker since my dash cover I got did not have provision for the speaker anyway.

The front and rear door speakers were an absolute breeze, the tweeters took a bit of clipping and soldering but were also quick. The rear sub was a bit of a pain with my drawer system needing to be unbolted so that I can pull the rear trim to access the sub. All in all, for about $700 bucks, my rig is now modernized with some amazing sound, apple car play and back up camera. Now.... what can I manage to dump some more money into next???






-head unit : Pinoeer DMH-1500NEX
-Maestro SW steering wheel control adapter (its programmable to add more functions to the factory 5 buttons the wheel)
-parking brake emulator/bypass (this unit you can't just ground the parking brake signal, it is looking for a pulse so you have to install a small emulator to bypass it and give you full control even when moving/without park brake engaged)
- Amazon.com: HerMia Car Radio Stereo AM & FM Antenna Connector SMB Splitter Y Adaptor Cable, 1 Male to 2 Female Plug for Automobile Car Antenna Aerial : Electronics (on amazon, this merges the 2 different antenna plugs into one input)
- Amazon.com: Scosche MDAB Compatible with 1988-05 GM Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter; Tip only (antenna plug converter - there are 2 different sizes and this lets you plugs both in)
- Amazon.com: Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness : Electronics (this is the most important thing you'll need to get it working with the JBL system. The wiring is straight forward, literally follow instructions on the sheet)
- Amazon.com: Metra 95-8210 Double DIN Installation Kit for 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Limited : Automotive (trim surround for my unit)-
- my speakers and sub that I got were a straight forward recommendation from Crutchfield.com for my model and year. I sourced some on amazon due to price, here is what all i got, you don't have to get the same exact obviously, crutchfield does a great job providing insturctions and suggestions for what fits.
- Amazon.com: PIONEER 8" Slim 700W 2 OHM SUBWOOFER : Electronics (subwoofer)
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (more speakers that were cheaper on amazon)
1x 0000530079 instructions (came with the speakers, sent via email)
1x 151OE692T
1x 575R165X3
1x 120828148
1x 120HWP0001
1x 120SPHKC
1x 120728104



that should be all you need really... I fought it for a while before realizing i needed that conversion module for the JBL system. If you start with it on hand and just follow the instructions it's pretty straightforward. I didn't document exact wiring I did, but like I mentioned, once I found out I need that little black box to go in between the factory plugs and the new headunit everything powered right on and plays awesome. The Maestro also just follow instructions, you plug it into a laptop/pc and download the necessary firmware for the specific car, it then lets you configure the button controls to pass to the radio. I started thinking I didn't need it, but it has been super convenient to use the steering control with the new unit.

The sub was the hardest to replace just because I have a drawer system I didnt want to take out and you ahve to pull apart half of the back trim to get to it. The wiring that came with the kits from crutchfield pretty much plugged right into factory, took me like 2 hours to do all the speakers. There were 2 or 4 smaller speaker (in the way aback and the 2 dfront door ones I believe) that I had to solder a component onto that came with it, but it literally looks like the factory speaker you pull out so it's supper easy. A lot of this wont make sense now since I don't have pictures, but I promise once you start going its a very straightforward process if you've done any sort of wiring prior. The sound (for an almost 20 year old car) is phenomenal. I mean its not a lexus or a new bmw or anything, but its super crisp and plenty loud. If you are using android Auto or Apple Carplay, make sure you get an extended USB cable to run out from the back of the radio into a useful spot since all of the current car play and android auto is over a hard connection and not bluetooth. I'll say that playing sound over the cable via carplay is significantly nicer, more clear and loud than bluetooth, but both are good.

Last edited by aemravan; 09-13-2021 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 08-04-2021, 09:01 AM #205
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Missed taco Tuesday by a bitÖ, but the lighting at work this morning was awesome so here we areÖ no new updates that are major on the rig, so far so good, just needs to see more off-road time !


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Old 09-10-2021, 10:12 AM #206
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I hate it when I see threads die off over time, so Iím going to try and not do the same with mine !

The TacoRunner has been doing awesome, had a few trips out to URE for some wheeling, last time out really kicked my ass. More trail damage in one trip then I managed all the other times combined lol. Nothing serious, but damage nonetheless.

Found out that my genius idea of storing recovery gear in the pull out drawer system has a bit of a flawÖ when youíre stuck facing 45degrees up and need to open the lift gate and then slide open the drawer it is less than idealÖ so I am now evaluating my options lol. For overlanding it is probably more than OK since I donít plan on being in a situation where Iíd be stuck that way.. but for off-road trips it will probably be best to take out the bags of necessary gear and just leave on the floorboard in the rear for easier access..

Got wedged on the rear bumper going up the ledge in Daniel, bounced the rock slider on the outer most point and bent it up to where my rear door would hit it, scuffed up both fenders (luckily no cracks lol) and my front bumper, took chunks out of my wheels, etc, but overall nothing that some spray paint didnít take care of

I also somehow popped a fuse during my bouncing that killed the gear shift indicator.. which meant I was stuck in 4 lo since it didnít know when I was in neutral to disengageÖ took a while to get sorted outÖ one more reason I canít wait to go FJ transfer case later on after this season..

I also ditched my personal roof rack design I was working on (started a new job and donít have time to keep tinkering with design changes) so I picked up a local Marlin roof rack side rails and used my cross bars and fairing, much sturdier than mine, I love it.

This week I ordered the cam tab gusset kit as well as the body mount relocation that Iím hoping to tackle in the next month or two. Also on the to do list are the inner tie rods.. they are shot and have some wiggle in them which results in some wheel wobble when I go to brake (Iím guessing thatís what itís from )..

Also delivering today is a cargo net Iíll be working with to make some ďattic storageĒ in the rear. Couldnít get myself to spend 300-600 bucks on a kit so Iím going the diy route again lol.










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Old 09-11-2021, 03:10 PM #207
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Found the source of my bottoming out thud when going over large drops/bumps.. the passenger side upper link pick up is hitting the cross member above that holds the pan hard tie in .. strange .. this member is asymmetric and lower in the passenger side so the other side rims fine.. now that I know whatís going on I feel good, but may end up notching the member to make clearance later.. any other 4th gen guys seeing this ?? I feel like I had this same sound when I was almost stock with minor lift and factory links..

Also installed an attic cargo storage I pieced together from Amazon. Net, 4 upgraded D rings and 2 36 inch bungee cords for added weight capacity, 10 minute install, mounted right behind the handles and rear storage hooks with factory bolts and all. Should make some good storage space up top for soft thing like blankets, covers, pillows , etc. not bad for 28 bucks and 10 minutes of work.

Also lowered the front fairing a bit and dropped the light bar to be more flush, love how it all fitted together.










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Old 09-13-2021, 01:33 PM #208
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Seems like I got the rear interference issue sorted out, i think I had the upper links adjusted way too far out. Reduced it some and hit a few large speed bump without any contact yet, the next trail ride will be the real test.

Over the last 2 days i have been REALLY throwing around the idea of fitting 37's on the car (mainly because I get bored very quickly, but also because I believe with a bit of modification I shouldn't have any issues) but after long searching of various routes (including going with a larger FJ 6" lift, going through various long travel options, etc I decided all my parts are still too new and not even close to used to justify diving into a change that big.. I don't want to run 37's just to run them if they are going to limit up-travel, turning radius, etc... if I ever run them, it would more than likely need to be accompanied by some variation of a long travel set up, both front and rear... so I guess 37's it is for now..

With that said, I found areas of interference that I've been hearing on trails.. looks like my very bottom corner of the pinch weld was still making contact at 50% turn so I took out my handy grinder and hammer and went to town making more clearance on the inner fenders. I broke the hammer... so i'll have to finish up tomorrow lol. After I'm done with it, I believe that there will be 0 point of contact from the tire at any angle or height, time will tell.

I also believe that me installing the 1" spacer somehow got rid of the tire rubbing the frame rail issue.. I don't see any paint-rub off at all anymore from the last time I coated it.. I'll have to do some more flex testing and verifying next time I'm out on the trails.


Since I won't be doing any tire upgrading, I decided the next best thing would be to go ahead and tackle the FJ cruiser T-case swap. I have contacted the local junkyard which shows a 2011 FJ tcase with 70k miles for only $156 that I really want to pick up sometime in the next 2 weeks. After some delibirating I also decided not to worry about modified driveshafts just yet.. the front seems to be still possible to install with some work without having it shortened, and the rear I decided I'm just going to buy a 1" spacer for (only 70 bucks and my driveshafts are still in great shape, on down the road I would just have 2 new driveshafts built so I don't waste money on just labor to shorten the partially worn out factory shafts.

I am pretty confident it is a swap that I can do in a matter of a short weekend day.. Other than cutting out a hole in the tunnel and then cutting and rewelding the shifter to make work everything else is pretty much a direct bolt-on process... I'm sure I'm wrong on that, but thats what I'm planning on so far

I am also planning on fixing my steering rack rattle/clunk I have this week.. after doing a bit of searching I believe I found the source of my noise I've been hearing from the steering column.. looks like the first slip joint gets worn out and has a bit of wiggle in it, need to take it all apart and tack weld it together. hopefully that is the issue. Once that is done I'll be working on replacing the inner and outer tie rods since those are pretty much completely shot at this point..

Last edited by aemravan; 09-13-2021 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 09-13-2021, 03:18 PM #209
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I had a member ask about the sound upgrade stuff and I'm not sure why I never listed the info in the thread.. could be handy to some in the future, so I am updating the list of parts I used for it in case anyone else is interested, see below:


-head unit : Pinoeer DMH-1500NEX
-Maestro SW steering wheel control adapter (its programmable to add more functions to the factory 5 buttons the wheel)
-parking brake emulator/bypass (this unit you can't just ground the parking brake signal, it is looking for a pulse so you have to install a small emulator to bypass it and give you full control even when moving/without park brake engaged)
- Amazon.com: HerMia Car Radio Stereo AM & FM Antenna Connector SMB Splitter Y Adaptor Cable, 1 Male to 2 Female Plug for Automobile Car Antenna Aerial : Electronics (on amazon, this merges the 2 different antenna plugs into one input)
- Amazon.com: Scosche MDAB Compatible with 1988-05 GM Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter; Tip only (antenna plug converter - there are 2 different sizes and this lets you plugs both in)
- Amazon.com: Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness : Electronics (this is the most important thing you'll need to get it working with the JBL system. The wiring is straight forward, literally follow instructions on the sheet)
- Amazon.com: Metra 95-8210 Double DIN Installation Kit for 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner Limited : Automotive (trim surround for my unit)-
- my speakers and sub that I got were a straight forward recommendation from Crutchfield.com for my model and year. I sourced some on amazon due to price, here is what all i got, you don't have to get the same exact obviously, crutchfield does a great job providing insturctions and suggestions for what fits.
- Amazon.com: PIONEER 8" Slim 700W 2 OHM SUBWOOFER : Electronics (subwoofer)
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (more speakers that were cheaper on amazon)
1x 0000530079 instructions (came with the speakers, sent via email)
1x 151OE692T
1x 575R165X3
1x 120828148
1x 120HWP0001
1x 120SPHKC
1x 120728104



that should be all you need really... I fought it for a while before realizing i needed that conversion module for the JBL system. If you start with it on hand and just follow the instructions it's pretty straightforward. I didn't document exact wiring I did, but like I mentioned, once I found out I need that little black box to go in between the factory plugs and the new headunit everything powered right on and plays awesome. The Maestro also just follow instructions, you plug it into a laptop/pc and download the necessary firmware for the specific car, it then lets you configure the button controls to pass to the radio. I started thinking I didn't need it, but it has been super convenient to use the steering control with the new unit.

The sub was the hardest to replace just because I have a drawer system I didnt want to take out and you ahve to pull apart half of the back trim to get to it. The wiring that came with the kits from crutchfield pretty much plugged right into factory, took me like 2 hours to do all the speakers. There were 2 or 4 smaller speaker (in the way aback and the 2 dfront door ones I believe) that I had to solder a component onto that came with it, but it literally looks like the factory speaker you pull out so it's supper easy. A lot of this wont make sense now since I don't have pictures, but I promise once you start going its a very straightforward process if you've done any sort of wiring prior. The sound (for an almost 20 year old car) is phenomenal. I mean its not a lexus or a new bmw or anything, but its super crisp and plenty loud. If you are using android Auto or Apple Carplay, make sure you get an extended USB cable to run out from the back of the radio into a useful spot since all of the current car play and android auto is over a hard connection and not bluetooth. I'll say that playing sound over the cable via carplay is significantly nicer, more clear and loud than bluetooth, but both are good.

Last edited by aemravan; 09-13-2021 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 09-14-2021, 09:52 AM #210
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aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold
aemravan's build thread - project TacoRunner

Well, finally bit the bullet and ordered a manual t case. The junk yard is showing a 2015 5th gen 4runner as a compatible t case for the FJ so I hope Iím not wrong lol. It only has 88k miles on it and I paid 214 bucks for it thus far, the guy said heíll try to throw in the shifter but worst case itíll be another 100 bucks. I should have it by the weekend and start getting ready for the swap. Canít wait.


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