[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

If you want reliability I don't know if transplanting and entire computer system is any better than adding a blower. But yeah over time my Tundra with 220k might not last long with another 100hp.

If the motor blew it would be cheaper to buy another Tundra as I bought it for only 3k and that's how much a used motor is.

Then again it could still make it to 1 million or even half that would be great.

Very solid point indeed. I was strictly looking at it from a mechanical standpoint of a 100% stock motor meant to putt around with a trailer and more weight than I currently have while being covered under warranty vs trying to squeeze an extra 150+ hp from a motor that was not originally designed for forced induction. Good chance it'll all be fine as long as you are mindful with the skinny pedal and a good tune lol.

But yea, the rest of the swap as it pertains to the electronics is probably the a realistic reason why I would probably elect not to do this.. at least not on the current rig.

With that said... do tell more on this about this eaton m90 Frankenstein! You've got my attention! I certainly wouldn't mind a blown v8, but of course I would be looking at doing some long tube headers for it at that point as well so the budget would be slightly elevated, but still sounds pretty damn reasonable. I'll seriously need to look into the details of this.. like throttle body, its rear facing, right? belt/pulley setup, adapter plate, etc. Sounds like a pretty cool project for a reasonable cost vs the gains you'd end up with in HP and sound

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

Very solid point indeed. I was strictly looking at it from a mechanical standpoint of a 100% stock motor meant to putt around with a trailer and more weight than I currently have while being covered under warranty vs trying to squeeze an extra 150+ hp from a motor that was not originally designed for forced induction. Good chance it'll all be fine as long as you are mindful with the skinny pedal and a good tune lol.

But yea, the rest of the swap as it pertains to the electronics is probably the a realistic reason why I would probably elect not to do this.. at least not on the current rig.

With that said... do tell more on this about this eaton m90 Frankenstein! You've got my attention! I certainly wouldn't mind a blown v8, but ofcourse I would be looking at doing some long tube headers for it at that point as well so the budget would be slightly elevated, but still sounds pretty damn reasonable compared to the $4-6K used TRD superchargers I see pop up very infrequently

I can't seem to find the info online for it yet, but I remember that Jason Burtman guy working on a kit that never eventually took off.

I believe the theory was machining off the top half of the intake manifold and welding on an aluminum plate that had the bolt pattern for the supercharger.

For URD's supercharger kit, they say 5.5 lbs of boost gave 100hp and 100tq. Which then puts the 4.7 at the same hp and slightly more tq than the stock 5.7.

So one would only need 4-5 lbs of boost and headers to get pretty massive performance gains.


00-04 Toyota Tundra Sequoia 4.7L 2UZ-FE Air Intake Manifold Assembly | eBay

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

I can't seem to find the info online for it yet, but I remember that Jason Burtman guy working on a kit that never eventually took off.

I believe the theory was machining off the top half of the intake manifold and welding on an aluminum plate that had the bolt pattern for the supercharger.

For URD's supercharger kit, they say 5.5 lbs of boost gave 100hp and 100tq. Which then puts the 4.7 at the same hp and slightly more tq than the stock 5.7.

So one would only need 4-5 lbs of boost and headers to get pretty massive performance gains.


00-04 Toyota Tundra Sequoia 4.7L 2UZ-FE Air Intake Manifold Assembly | eBay

I was browsing and looking at the same stuff just now, not a bad deal for the intake assembly to R&D some stuff on at $160.. Intake Manifold V8 Gas OEM 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Land Cruiser | eBay


Machining down the manifold and welding in an adapter plate of sorts sounds pretty straightforward, I would be more concerned about figuring out the belt drive setup and coming up with a tension pulley to throw in to drive the blower. But yea... 4-5lbs of boost would be pretty sweet for sure.

[aemravan]

Here’s an idea, instead of looking at supercharges and motor swaps.. I should probably quit being an idiot and torque suspension bolts and check them to make sure you don’t repeat some road failures, you big moron you.

Have been having a bit of some interesting suspension offloading pop I kept hearing that I could track down... in the process of checking torque on the front spacers after 50 miles I just happened to notice that both of the bolts to the lower balljoint bracket on the passenger side were about half way backed out. Broken visual marker and all obviously... probably quite some time ago.

Talk about a timely damn catch. That would have been fun trip down memory lane once the bolts came all the way out. Time to go back through and doublecheck everything I have touched. Stay safe everyone.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

Here’s an idea, instead of looking at supercharges and motor swaps.. I should probably quit being an idiot and torque suspension bolts and check them to make sure you don’t repeat some road failures, you big moron you.

Have been having a bit of some interesting suspension offloading pop I kept hearing that I could track down... in the process of checking torque on the front spacers after 50 miles I just happened to notice that both of the bolts to the lower balljoint bracket on the passenger side were about half way backed out. Broken visual marker and all obviously... probably quite some time ago.

Talk about a timely damn catch. That would have been fun trip down memory lane once the bolts came all the way out. Time to go back through and doublecheck everything I have touched. Stay safe everyone.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been lucky with just tightening the snot out of those bolts with a 18" breaker bar.

The head is big enough you might be able to drill a thin hole through and wire tie it to the ball joint 'cradle'. Might be hard to drill through.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

I've been lucky with just tightening the snot out of those bolts with a 18" breaker bar.

The head is big enough you might be able to drill a thin hole through and wire tie it to the ball joint 'cradle'. Might be hard to drill through.

I'm pretty sure I just didn't do my due diligence with proper torque the last time around.. talk about a lucky find. lol .

[thegame7]

I've done the exact same thing lol. "Hey guys I can't find this mystery clunk" Oh duh I should probably check my work after throwing it back together, D'OH!

[aemravan]

And while I was at it I solved another mysterious steering noise… my steering rack was shifting left and right under heavy load.. guess I needed to go a bit more than gorilla tight on the two bolts..

I think the issue was that originally I didn’t use washers on the aluminum offset inserts and I crushed them in.. when you put them into the rack they don’t touch inside so if you crank really hard on the center portion you can have the outer portion of the flat separate from the main cylinder. I found some heavy duty body mount washers that span the entire width that I installed so we’ll see if this holds in place.

I’m doing so, my rack shifted slightly and started binding the steering shaft to the motor mount. 2 hours later I had it shifted into place where it was ok again.


I’m still having a dull “thud” coming from what I believe is the rear left when i go over small bumps that I can’t for the life of me track down… maybe it’s my hiem joint links.. but I can’t test that in the driveway.

I even disconnected the sway bar to see and was still hearing just the same. Maybe it’s the shock.. who knows. I guess it’s possible that I can swap them left to right and see the noise follows but I’m fresh out of ideas.. I have gone over every single bolt and nut and even took the rubber mallet to the entire underside but cannot replicate the sound at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[thegame7]

Originally Posted by aemravan

And while I was at it I solved another mysterious steering noise… my steering rack was shifting left and right under heavy load.. guess I needed to go a bit more than gorilla tight on the two bolts..

I think the issue was that originally I didn’t use washers on the aluminum offset inserts and I crushed them in.. when you put them into the rack they don’t touch inside so if you crank really hard on the center portion you can have the outer portion of the flat separate from the main cylinder. I found some heavy duty body mount washers that span the entire width that I installed so we’ll see if this holds in place.

I’m doing so, my rack shifted slightly and started binding the steering shaft to the motor mount. 2 hours later I had it shifted into place where it was ok again.


I’m still having a dull “thud” coming from what I believe is the rear left when i go over small bumps that I can’t for the life of me track down… maybe it’s my hiem joint links.. but I can’t test that in the driveway.

I even disconnected the sway bar to see and was still hearing just the same. Maybe it’s the shock.. who knows. I guess it’s possible that I can swap them left to right and see the noise follows but I’m fresh out of ideas.. I have gone over every single bolt and nut and even took the rubber mallet to the entire underside but cannot replicate the sound at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have poly steering rack bushings? If so, you should drill out the crossmember to 1/2" and shove 1/2" bolts through the whole assembly. It got rid of so many clunks in my front end and the steering feels legit tight now. The poly bushing kit I bought already had 1/2" ID sleeves so it was only a matter of drilling the crossmember out a little. For some reason Toyota specs a 12mm bolt that has an 11mm shank and that doesn't play well with the 1/2" ID sleeves. I had 1/16 of play in both mounting locations and no matter how much I tightened those stock bolts, the rack still moved (no surprise there).

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by thegame7

Do you have poly steering rack bushings? If so, you should drill out the crossmember to 1/2" and shove 1/2" bolts through the whole assembly. It got rid of so many clunks in my front end and the steering feels legit tight now. The poly bushing kit I bought already had 1/2" ID sleeves so it was only a matter of drilling the crossmember out a little. For some reason Toyota specs a 12mm bolt that has an 11mm shank and that doesn't play well with the 1/2" ID sleeves. I had 1/16 of play in both mounting locations and no matter how much I tightened those stock bolts, the rack still moved (no surprise there).

I’m running the lc200 steering rack with 1/2 inch hardware and solid mounts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[aemravan]

built up a little more rig confidence this weekend..

Friday evening my brother and I went out to do a quick overnight camping at URE. Didn't ride any crazy trails but did stroll through some easier trails with the recent fixes seemingly resolving the recent issues I've had. The front end didn't make any weird noises after the rebuild from last time.. axles seemed to be happy, and didn't hear any rubbing from the tires to the TK1 sway bar.. after this last outing I decided that rockcrawling is not in the stars for me.. the initial bug I had for it just isn't the same as venturing out to a nice camping spot and chilling out for the weekend.. maybe LT or SAS is not something I'll do after all.. lol.

The following day my wife and I took a 5 hour round trip to the mountains to do some hiking with the falls colors coming in. Other than first having some bad tire shake with 36psi up front and 40 psi in the rear that did not go away after 30 miles until I dropped the pressure to around 30-33psi, everything went good. No new noises or issues. This did frustrate me quite a bit though.. it seems this damn tire balancing issue just won't go away. Even at lower PSI I still feel it coming and going a bit, and feel the balance wheels fighting to keep the shake from translating further up.. I can only imagine the sort of wear this is expediting on all the components, especially my wheel bearings. Also not a VERY comforting thought that I have so much vibration going through the wheel spacers front and rear.. I am highly considering going down to a 10.5" wide tire instead, not only will that give me more clearance to all the things I had rubbing previously, save some rotational weight, increase mpg, and possibly balance out better than these behemoth tires..

Also, on the trail ride I couldn't help but notice how loud the rear was.. presumably from the 5 links all having heim joints... this got me thinking... now that I'm not necessarily shooting for the starts with rear articulation and having the rear link length dialed in... would it be worth it swapping over to a bushing-style rod end in favor of the heim joints? They take so much maintenance to keep quite that it's getting aggravating on a predominantly street-drive rig.. Doing a quick search it looks like there are plenty of bushing style rod end options in both LH and RH threads.. I don't expect the squeaking to go away by going to a poly bushing... but at least they are easily greaseable and should reduce some of the stiffness in the ride? The challenge I guess is finding one that for sure fits the RH/LH threads I have (I THINK they are 3/4-16 from RUFF stuff) and are close to the width that I need them to be... though I guess shimming it out with some heavy duty washers couldn't hurt anything either..


Anddddd I also decided that I'm going to try and sell the current wheel/tire setup in favor of the Kenda Klever 10.5" tire on a smaller 8" wide ProComp wheel setup.. not as visually appealing but I decided that I don't need the extra tire width and need to simplify my rig and make it more street-friendly since that is where I spend just about 95% of the time.. the amount of road noise I'm getting and what I have to go through to balance them just isn't worth it.. hoping I can get out of the setup for around $1600.. maybe thats low, maybe it high... 9k miles on the setup that I spent $2500 on before all the balancing and mounting.. only unappealing thing is I have trail rash on all my wheels from the rock crawling lol. We'll see what happens.. (FS: 17x9" AR201 Wheels w/ 315/70/17 (35's) Wildpeak 35's x 5 (Charlotte, NC))

[aemravan]

Can’t stop spending money for more than a few weeks it seems.. damn it lol.

After doing some searching I “think” I found the rod end bushings that will work with my current setup… I think I have the right combination of RH and LH threads with the appropriate 1/2” hardware holes for the upper links and the 14mm(9/16”) hardware for the lowers and panhard bar.

The width of the bushing for the lower links and on a hard bar is not ideal and will be about 3/8” not wide enough, but I’ll just shim them out with the proper amount of large washers on each side to compensate.

These have zerk grease fitting so we’ll see how that works out.. $300 isn’t the cheapest route to go… but my links work well other than having heims in them… I don’t think the heim joints are bad one bit, I feel like metal on metal just translates too much rode noise in an already still and loud , heavy ride… we’ll see hot this goes…. I’m anticipating quite a reduction in down travel but I’m willing to sacrifice.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[aemravan]

well damn... the bushings are already being shipped out today with the ETA for this Thursday.. a lot sooner than I had thought. I'll probably give the passenger side upper link a quick try to confirm my idea will work and save the remaining work for later. Shouldn't take TOO long to do, but it's always fun trying to get to the driver side upper link front bolt.. I'm also very highly considering getting a quick tack-weld onto the jam nuts to really lock them out and keep from spinning/adjusting out later..

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

I'm also very highly considering getting a quick tack-weld onto the jam nuts to really lock them out and keep from spinning/adjusting out later..

Thats what I did. Might be a pic in my build thread somewhere but I can't find it.

[aemravan]

just took delivery of the bushing-style rod ends this morning. Hoping to test fit the passenger upper link during lunch just to confirm that the thread is the same and it will work.

The width for the upper control arms that are using the 1/2" bolt hardware I drilled in looks to be perfect for the mount surface inside and should not need any shimming, just a nice and tight torque to make sure everything is snug and happy.

The panhard bar with the m14 factory hardware also seems that it should just about work with the width of the 9/16" bushing sleeve and should not need any shimming for thickness, but we'll see how that looks like when I get it off.

The lower links have 2 things that I'm looking to overcome. The only available width of bushings that fit the 9/16 (14mm) hardware was not quite wide enough. I'm looking at having to shim probably 1/4" total to the mounting brackets. I just put in an order with McMaster to get some 1 1/2" wide washers that will fit 9/16" hardware in hopes to only needing to use one on each side of the bushing to get it nice and snug.

While I was at it.. I decided it would probably be wise to switch to Actual 9/16" hardware instead of using the factory M14 bolts on the lower links to ensure that the hardware matched the designed opening. Not cheap, it was another $75 for McMaster to get the washers and grade 8 hardware to rework the lowers. It should all be here tomorrow so we'll see how the swap-over process goes. I'm really hoping I made the right decision and this isn't a $400 waste of time exercise lol.