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Old 11-23-2022, 02:43 PM #841
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the ****ery with tracing down the clunk continues.

Spent the morning pulling the rear driveshaft off, again, to better clean up the splines and re-lube the slip yoke and make sure that I wasn't hyrolocking it with too much grease. Removed the rear spacer and installed proper m12 hardware between the diff flange and propeller shaft.

No difference. The clunk is back at it again.

After trying to get some better video angels to see if I had any interference on the lower links, or maybe the springs, one thing that jumped out at me was that the noise did not show up as loud on camera at the rear of the rig... A couple of folks suggested maybe its the front end making noise... and now I really don't know. Maybe what ever I'm feeling in the front diff in fwd has something to do with the clunk I'm hearing....

my next step is to completely isolate the front diff by removing both rcv axles and installing stub shafts... hell... maybe even drop the front driveshaft, not that it would matter at that point, and see if maybe, by some chance, the clunk is gone. I'm about 2 steps away from calling it quits and giving up. Anyone want a sweet 03 V8 TacoRunner??
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Old 11-23-2022, 06:39 PM #842
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So I've been wanting to swap in a tesla style screen for my 4runner 4th gen but none are available ( there's a surprisingly low options for 4th gens for some reason) so I found a Tacoma 2 screen that seems to fit (I think) can anyone confirm if this might work?

US $578.34 49%OFF | Car Radio For TOYOTA Tacoma 2 N200 Hilux 2005-2015 Android GPS Navigation DVD Multimedia With Screen Auto Stereo
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msWSLpa

To fit on
My 4runner 2008, thoughts?
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Old 11-23-2022, 09:52 PM #843
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Originally Posted by ignoranceisnotblis View Post
So I've been wanting to swap in a tesla style screen for my 4runner 4th gen but none are available ( there's a surprisingly low options for 4th gens for some reason) so I found a Tacoma 2 screen that seems to fit (I think) can anyone confirm if this might work?

US $578.34 49%OFF | Car Radio For TOYOTA Tacoma 2 N200 Hilux 2005-2015 Android GPS Navigation DVD Multimedia With Screen Auto Stereo
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msWSLpa

To fit on
My 4runner 2008, thoughts?

I think you may in a wrong thread Ö but anyhow.. if you have access to Amazon thatís where Iíd stick to over aliexpress.


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Old 11-23-2022, 10:09 PM #844
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WellÖ I found my clunk. And you wont believe what it wasÖ after giving up for today with my early efforts not panning out like I had hoped I decided to make a run to the store for some remodeling supplies.. while leaving the neighborhood something in my mind said ďhey.. letís try the clunk while feeling the twin sticks in the t caseĒ what do you know ? The clunk was right there, in my hand.

Come to find out , the 2wd/4wd selector stick pushes back under heavy load, and Iím assuming since the t case is not synchronized, causes some grinding / clunking as it wants to pop out of 2hi. Holding the stick forward keeps it from clunking 100% of the time while in 2hi. Amazing Ö.. all that effort. Lol.

Now the question is Ö. Is this a symptom of the twin stick mod and not having a factory j pattern shifter ? I donít feel like itís the body movement thatís forcing the shifter (but I didnít tear down into the console to check.. however , the left stick literally doesnít move leading me to believe that itís something to do with the torque going through the case wanting to pop the shifter fork out.

Not looking to remedy this.. i donít hammer down often , and from now on will just be mindful that I hold the stick forward if I have to. The question is whether or not all this testing has done any damage to the teeth, which I highly doubt since itís silent and shifts butter smooth, but I think that a gear oil change is probably not the most terrible idea.


While I was at it, I pulled out the front RCV axles and installed the stub shafts to see what difference I feel and hear from the front being completely drivetrain-less. I canít imagine the feeling I got was from the axles.. but aside from buying two replacements to throw in I donít know how to go about troubleshooting.. maybe worthwhile , but ultimately I feel like the diff has to come out and get opened up for inspection..


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Old 12-01-2022, 03:22 PM #845
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now that I got my clunk figured out I am in the process of changing out the diff and t-case fluids while things are more or less apart. I found some replacement drain and fill plugs for the front diff that aren't 10mm allen heads but regular hex heads, excited to get those swapped out for easy fluid change down the road. It's always sketchy breaking loose the allen plugs.. mine are half stripped already..

While fiddling around with that I noticed something interesting that may explain, at least in part, the feeling I have in the front diff.. while putting in the stub shafts to keep oil from spilling in 2wd with the CV's out, I noticed that I could not spin the front driveshaft... even with the axles out.. this was suprising since I'm on the FJ t-case and in 2Hi on the selector sticks... but... spinning the front drive shaft I could see the rear shaft moving a little as well with the minor slop that I had.. this should not be happening as there should be no coupling of the front/rear shaft in 2Hi until you go to 4Hi.

This means something, very possibly related to the twin stick mod, like the synchro hub between 2hi and 4hi is sliding around just a little and possibly making slight contact to the hi gear engagement.. this was, afterall, the cause of the clunk I was feeling under heavy torque application.

So I am now thinking i'm onto something.... and the front diff isn't actually hurt (I really hope) but rather some of the clunkiness i'm feeling has got something to do with the front wheel back-spinning the diff and sometimes the T-case wanting to make partial engagement to 4hi. At least that is my current working theory .. I think I have a way to verify this, at least partially, by sticking the gopro under the rig again to see what the front drive shaft is doing while I'm driving around. It shouldn't be spinning at all in 2hi since my cv axle are currently out, so if it get any sort of movement or engagement I think I can confirm my theory ..
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Old 12-11-2022, 05:09 PM #846
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So finally made some time for the 4runner today.

Before throwing the axles back on I went to see if the front driveshaft was spinning when in 2wd. Stuck the go pro down there and sure enough Ö I get front driveshaft movement even when in 2wdÖ going 2Lo stops the spinning, but in regular gear I get contact from the synchro to the 4wd gear. Hard to say how much force is making it through so it could just be a little rubbing thatís spinning the shaft but none the less itís a little weird since it shouldnít be.


Went to throw my front axles on, and before I did that decided to make sure my drain and fill plugs can be undone. Got them loose and went to pull the drain plug, and what do I find ? Chunks of metal. Decent size and amount. Shot front diff Ö clearly .. right ?

While dropping the diff I was running through the possible scenarios of getting this back to ECgs for warranty, having a local shop so it, finding a local off-road guy do it, etc. diff came out in about 20 minutes.

Once out.. a quick YouTube video convinced me to crack it open myself just to see.. I was super curious.

Boy am I glad I did. Nothing , not one thing , is busted writhing the arb locker or ring and pinion. I will do a more thorough clean and inspection once I get some brake cleaner, butÖ not a damn thing is broken

After a closer examination, the chunks I found match almost identical to the broken intermediate shaft I kept. It seems a few of these pieces were wedges somewhere and did not flush out when I did the flush.. needless to say Iím pretty stoked. Still a lot of work to get everything back together and into the rig but now at least I know.












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Old 12-12-2022, 10:17 AM #847
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I need to go to Walmart more often.. dirt cheap brake cleaner with tons in stock, unlike most of my auto parts stores around at double the cost and 1 -2 lingering cans. Even found the permatex black gasket maker at literally half the cost sitting right under the said brake cleaner shelf.

Did a quick round of brake cleaner spray down on all the parts last night. Hoping to spend a bit more time cleaning off all the old gasket/sealant from the mating surfaces and do a deep clean to make sure I got all the crud out from all the critical areas where the spider gears contact that housing. From there, it's just basic reassembly.. the ARB locker should go together in no more than 30 minutes and while that's going together I'll bake the Nitro ring gear to make sure it can slip on with ease. It took quite a beating to get it off of the locker yesterday.

All in all, if everything goes to plan, I hope to get this back together over the next couple of days and back into the rig by end of this weekend.


With regards to the FJ T-case: I'm really wishing my original one came with the factory J-pattern shifter so I wouldn't have thought of going the twin stick route.. I am under the impression that not having a factory shifter (which is spring loaded) is probably the reason I was getting the clunk under heavy throttle and am also seeing the front driveshaft spin when it shouldn't be.

With the cost of these things I can have a replacement on hand for the same money I could sell the twin-sticks for... so I'm keeping an eye out at local yards to see if one pops up that I can snag. Anyone else looking to do the FJ Tcase swap, save the time and money and just keep the J-pattern shifter... that means you don't need to crack the case open to remove the "pill", worry about losing parts and sealing the thing back up, and can do a super quick and easy swap. Not to mention that the J-pattern shifter is a lot easier to seal since it can be done with a single shift boot, unlike the issue I'm having the with the twin sticks.
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Old 12-12-2022, 10:42 PM #848
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Told my wife I was baking cookies ;)

The arb is back together and the nitro gear is cooling off. Loctite and torque coming tomorrow along with hopefully closing up the clamshell so that the permatex can have some time to set before the fluid goes in .. hopefully i put it back together properly but really.. first time messing with a diff soÖ. Lol.

The internals after the clean up look literally brand new. Only spot I found where it looks like a piece wedged itself was deep on the pinion gear, but it didnít do much damage looks like.











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Old 12-13-2022, 09:36 AM #849
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Those are purty!
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Old 12-13-2022, 11:16 AM #850
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Those are purty!
purty new lookin lol. I was not expecting to see this condition of gears inside to be honest.. even just from regular street use I figured you would have some notable wearing of the gears.... nope.. everything is looking brand spankin new, and I'm not complaining.. now I just need to track down the torque specs for the clamshell cover.. not finding anything anywhere so may just go with my gut feel... the ring gear from Nitro is calling for 70ftlbs and is larger than the bolts on the cover, so I may settle at 50-60ft-lbs if I can't find anything definitive.
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Old 12-13-2022, 02:42 PM #851
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Dropping this here for reference. The clamshell bolt torque is 37ft lbs.

The nitro ring gear bolt torque is 70ft lbs.






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Old 12-13-2022, 07:45 PM #852
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Here goes nothing ..




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Old 12-13-2022, 09:39 PM #853
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How big is that vise? I need to upgrade.
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Old 12-13-2022, 11:00 PM #854
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How big is that vise? I need to upgrade.

Itís a 6Ē vice , worked great for the diff with some rubber pads I had left over from the FJ t case swap.


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Old 12-15-2022, 03:19 PM #855
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aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future aemravan has a brilliant future
aemravan's build thread - project TacoRunner

well... now that the front diff isn't actually blown up and shot like I suspected I guess I can stop looking for superduty/14 bolt axles.... dang....

Maybe one day though.. I did take a quick peek at some junk yard axles and started pricing out a rough estimate of a build.. I still feel like some time down the road, if I have some additional play money, but more importantly time and dedicated shop space, I would love to do a full 3-link front, 4-link rear SAS swap on the rig. The 5.7L tundra motor would be a lot more time consuming and I would probably be building that for a year.. but I feel like axles could be done reasonably.. It would be awesome to ultimately run 38-40" tires ... just because I love the look over anything else.. but when you reason it that way, that's at least $15k to spend for a beefier look

Maybe I need to take baby steps and first get this junker back together and actually go out and do some wheeling and camping before I spend any more time dreaming of a future build lol

Made some more progress on the front diff yesterday and the intermediate shaft housing is now on and the permatex is drying. I figured with how cold and humid it currently is from all the rain that I would give it not 1, but 2 days before I go to fill it with any fluids, which should work out great by the time I hit the weekend. Hoping to get this sucker back into the rig and get everything assembled in between all the rain we've been getting.

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2003 Limited V8 4runner - Tacoma Front End Swap - Icon 2.5 front coilovers - Dobinsons IMS59-50575 LT Shocks w/ C59-749V springs - Coastal Off-Road Bumpers - ARB Front/Rear Lockers - 4.56 Gears - RCV front axles - Twin-stick FJ T-case swap - LC200 Steering Rack Swap

Last edited by aemravan; 12-15-2022 at 03:22 PM.
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