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Old 11-20-2021, 06:54 PM #286
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The jba balljoint replacement was quick as hell, but I hate their zip tie design to hold the boot on. It barely goths through the opening and I popped one off and had to install my own, which was even larger, so I had to put it on in place after mounting the balljoint. All in all not much to complain about.




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Old 11-21-2021, 06:06 PM #287
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Well, after the front end work didnít resolve my issues with a clunking noise when turning and taking off I went digging in the rear. What do you know ? It was my upper control arm hiem joint all alongÖ the on right above the gas tank I guess wasnít fully tight and allowed the high to bash against the high misalignment spacer and wear it out a bit allowing th ball to spin inside and clunk left to right. The fact that I have 5/8Ē spacers with a 7/16 factory bolt doesnít help either I guess, it was in a very tight space and hard to crank down on and I havenít checked it lately.

Had to shave just a bit off the spacer to get them tight again, cranked down on the bolt and the noise is gone. So a friendly reminder, if youíre running heims on a street driven vehicle check and maintain them regularly and try to use proper torque and hardware lol. Sure is nice not having to worry about your wheels falling off with the type of clunking I was hearing and feeling lol.


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Old 11-24-2021, 12:58 AM #288
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Got my Detroit axel lower control arms in. Don’t expect these to last nearly as long as the oem ones but I figured it would be nice to have some new bushings in place when I am working on the cam tab weldments since I have to pull the arms off anyway. The factory ones will stay in the spare parts list since I don’t really see any issues with them other than having 145k miles … but now that I’m typing this out it has me questioning my thought process… lol. Maybe I should just leave them alone





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Old 11-25-2021, 04:35 PM #289
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Love this

Very inspirational, keep up the great work!
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Old 11-26-2021, 03:30 PM #290
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Took advantage of some nice weather to replace the upper thermostat housing o ring (part number in the pics, hard a hard time finding the correct one to order).

Took surprisingly quick to pop everything off. Now just to wait for the gasket to dry and fill up the coolant.






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Old 11-26-2021, 06:47 PM #291
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Is there not a square rubber gasket for the square area that fits into the groove of the housing, if not how is it sealed?
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Old 11-26-2021, 10:13 PM #292
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Is there not a square rubber gasket for the square area that fits into the groove of the housing, if not how is it sealed?

No that part gets FPG sealant.


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Old 11-27-2021, 11:00 AM #293
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Next project ideaÖ. Remove the rear quarter glass and build storage boxes accessible from the exterior with the molle panels integrated into the opening lidÖ the interior space right now is pretty useless.. could be a good way to create some additional storage that Iíll never actually need aemravan's build thread - project TacoRunneraemravan's build thread - project TacoRunner




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Old 11-29-2021, 08:50 PM #294
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Made some new beefier mount points for the front skid. Stacked 2 washer for the rear to keep from having to use spacers which were a bit of a pain to insert.






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Old 12-05-2021, 05:24 PM #295
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The local off-road trail is closing for the season on the 15th so we took one last trip out this weekend with my brother for a quick overnighter to do some camping and off roading.

All the recent repairs held up and the rig did awesome. Did some night trail riding as well as some morning rock crawling.

Bashed in the front skid, definitely nice to have it lol, it took quite a beating. Also ended up with some new pin striping on the side and some nice new gashes in the sliders. All in all an awesome trip out, super happy with how it performed.

The power tank I put together aired up all tires in 4 minutes, considerably faster than 20 minutes with my viair pump lol.

I got all the way home , backed the car into the driveway, went to park it, and my shifter linkage failed. Talk about perfect timing ! Iíve had the repair bushing sitting around for the last year on my work bench so luckily it was only a 20 minute repair. Could have been a lot worse of it happened in the trails lol











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Old 12-05-2021, 09:48 PM #296
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Donít mind the funny soundtrack, but figured it wouldnít hurt to throw up a short video of this thing putting in some work

URE front side of Daniel off-roading - YouTube


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Old 12-06-2021, 11:44 AM #297
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So a quick recap-update from the recent work and trip:

-rear heim joints on the links
These have been holding up better than I thought. All of the clunking I am hearing seems to be the results of the upper drivers side one coming loose over time (hard to crank it down with the gas tank in the way). But I believe it is mainly coming loose because my bolts a just a hare undersized (factory hardware) from the high-misalignment spacer ID. I believe the heims were meant to use Standard hardware, not metric, and I have a tiny bit of slop between the bolt and spacer. Cranking down on these obviously helps, but that leaves the spacer with the possibility to move within the mount ever so slightly under load. Not a huge deal, but it's something I am planning on possibly addressing by drilling out the mounts to the next size bolt that should be there and buying new grade 10 hardware.

Gas tank/skid
I seriously need to look at what it will take to get the gas tank up just a bit.. its the lowest hanging portion and being in the center of the vehicle I found myself dragging it quite a bit and further damaging my factory skid. I have some large aluminum sheet that I'm planning to form into some sort of upgraded skid, but getting it up 1 or 1.5 inches would be awesome.

Front Wheel Clearance
Though I got MOST of my rubbing issues taken care off, going up the front side of daniel and getting some extreme flex/wheels turning there is definitely a significant amount of rubbing still there at the firewall. My plan is to cut, clearance and plate this area to get myself full clearance on 35's. Not sure if 37's would ever be doable without rubbing if you're not running a LT kit up front.

Lockers/RCV axles
Though pricey, having front/rear lockers in combination with RCV axles have me in a VERY comfortable place with regards to reliability. I had a couple of guys mention things like "that's a no-locker trail" or "I've made it up that fully open" etc. While that is perfectly fine, and I completely understand that a lot of the trails/climbs this rig does could be done open/open with some Skinny Pedal action, I have watched these rigs going up the same obstacles and it definitely looks violent, and the question isn't IF your axles or diff will fail, but when. Having lockers front and rear, on top of the beefier RCV axles give's me huge peace of mind. The last trail ride I did just about everything in 2Hi with an occasional rear locker engaged when I was bound up on a slick clay climb, but as soon as I would find myself not being able to make it up without really having to give it the beans I would just engage my 4wd with some lockers and it would crawl right up with minimal wheel spin and throttle. That was the entire purpose behind the build.. go out to have some fun, but do so reliably without having to do axle swaps and all on the trail.

Lightbars
Lightbars are useless for the east coast trails we have in the woods. I don't care what anyone else tries to tell you. We have done 2 long night trail rides, and my $90 amazon pods in the bumper (below eyeline of sight) are SOOO much more useful in the woods. The light car has too much output and flood yours eyes with unnecessary amount of blinding light, and anytime there is any dust or anything in the air it makes it impossible to see (granted mine is mounted on the roof rack and not in the bumper). If you were mobbing some trails out west at speed and need the light penetration way down trail, obviously a no-brainer. But for the trails we have here I decided my bar is just for looks lol

CO2 tank
my diy co2 tank did wonders for my fill-up time. 30 seconds per tire vs like 4-5 minutes with my ViAir pump I had. I'm still testing the capacity and how many total tire fills I can get, but I figured I shouldn't have to refill it more than twice a year with the amount of off roading I do.. I still need to make a solid mount for it, because it is quite bulky and I definitely wouldn't be bringing it for overlanding trips where the rig is packed with more than just a quick off-road trip worth of stuff.

future of the build
After running all the trails (these are super difficult when it comes to off road trails, but are the "hardest" at URE) this time around, my brother and I evaluated both of our rigs and pretty much settled on the fact that they are every bit as capable as we ever need them to be... going bigger would allow the rig to get up larger stuff, but both being daily rigs I don't think I would ever have the balls to do anything more crazy than we do now... going slightly larger is pointless and a waste of money, and the next step up is north of a $15k investment. Maybe one day i'll get there, but for the time being I decided I'm going to use whats on the rig now and see where it gets me. SAS would awesome, and maybe one day when I have a decent garage i'll actually do it, but for the time being I think I am more or less done with the "large" portion of the build. I may still tinker with getting more articulation out of the rear by clearancing the flares and reducing my bump stop, but only if the shock will allow me... time shall tell.

off-season plans
I still have a bit of work to do in the off season.. mainly with relocating the bodymount and doing the cam tab gussets. I also need to weld on my track bar bracket extension, sort out the rear link hardware and clearance the firewall. Then I'd like to see what it would take to raise the gas tank and fab a skid for it, and if that goes well I plan on spending some time underneath to wirebrush the frame and do some rust prevention (I'm one of the fortunate ones to have a near-mint frame and I would like to keep it that way). Then I need to spend some time and touch up the front bumper in a few spots that have gotten scratched pretty good so that I don't have rust develop and start messing with the rest of the finish.



Thank you for all those that stick around and follow me on this journey, it certainly has been an awesome one so far!
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Old 12-06-2021, 02:15 PM #298
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Gas tank/skid
I seriously need to look at what it will take to get the gas tank up just a bit.. its the lowest hanging portion and being in the center of the vehicle I found myself dragging it quite a bit and further damaging my factory skid. I have some large aluminum sheet that I'm planning to form into some sort of upgraded skid, but getting it up 1 or 1.5 inches would be awesome.
I've been looking at doing the same thing for a couple years now. You've probably seen that so forgive me if you've already read this.

Like you mentioned the rear upper link is right above a notch in the fuel tank. Without removing this link you wont be able to raise the tank, or at least not the back half of the tank. I believe you will need to swap to a 3 link rear to do it right. Good news is you can do this simply by deleting the passenger side upper link and beefing up the driver's side upper link and mounts. I think this will technically have the same 'geometry' as factory, with slightly more load on the panhard to keep the axle centered, and double the load on the single upper link.

At this point you will need a body lift and some fabrication to lift the tank. You could simply swap to the FJ tank but its from my measurements actually 3/4" deeper than the 4R's, it's only higher clearance on the front half where you save 1.5" because its angled on the bottom, and the strap spacing is slightly different. They are fairly cheap used on Ebay though. Would love to see a side by side pic on the ground showing the actual dimensions instead of me measuring under my brother's truck.
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Old 12-06-2021, 02:40 PM #299
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I've been looking at doing the same thing for a couple years now. You've probably seen that so forgive me if you've already read this.

Like you mentioned the rear upper link is right above a notch in the fuel tank. Without removing this link you wont be able to raise the tank, or at least not the back half of the tank. I believe you will need to swap to a 3 link rear to do it right. Good news is you can do this simply by deleting the passenger side upper link and beefing up the driver's side upper link and mounts. I think this will technically have the same 'geometry' as factory, with slightly more load on the panhard to keep the axle centered, and double the load on the single upper link.

At this point you will need a body lift and some fabrication to lift the tank. You could simply swap to the FJ tank but its from my measurements actually 3/4" deeper than the 4R's, it's only higher clearance on the front half where you save 1.5" because its angled on the bottom, and the strap spacing is slightly different. They are fairly cheap used on Ebay though. Would love to see a side by side pic on the ground showing the actual dimensions instead of me measuring under my brother's truck.
That is a really good point man... I completely disregarded the fact that the upper mount is sitting right there.. I just figured because I had a 1.5" body lift that I could raise the tank the same relative amount.

A 3-link is actually something I have been entertaining doing.. I just feel like if I am going to go through that effort I may as well go longer arms and relocate both the upper and lower mounts at that point and really get the rear articulating a significant amount more. But then it gets me into a deeper rabbit hole with springs and shocks and driveshaft, ect lol. Maybe i'll just see about fabricating a decent gas tank skid and letting it be for now .. a smaller tank (or even a dual tank setup made up of 2 smaller tanks) could be cool since I have a ton of space where the factory spare went but I just don't think the amount of work is worth it vs how much wheeling this thing actually gets.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:35 PM #300
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aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold aemravan is a splendid one to behold
So all this 3 link talk got me looking at my suspension at lunch and I noticed my extended bump stop, though keeping my tire from rubbing hard on the flare and door, was limiting uptravel by a solid 1.5 inches. Total shock travel should be almost 9inches but mine did go more than a bit over 7 from full droop, which from the measurements did look like a fully extended length icon provides.

I decided to take off 1.5 inches worth of bump stop and try to flex it later on to see where that puts my shock. If the shock is happy Iím more than willing to do some trimming on the quarter flare and door (possibly the back edge of the bumper as well since itís rubbing there a little now)



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2003 Limited V8 4runner - Tacoma Front End Swap - Icon 2.5 front coilovers - Dobinsons IMS59-50575 LT Shocks w/ C59-749V springs - Coastal Off-Road Bumpers - ARB Front/Rear Lockers - 4.56 Gears - RCV front axles - Twin-stick FJ T-case swap
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