[aemravan]

Originally Posted by y=mx+b

The longer shocks will cause the driveshaft to rub the tank skid on with a lot of left rear compression, so mighta tweaked the skid then and caused the rubbing while driving normally. I think it has to due to how the wheel cambers on the left when the right side droops out longer with the longer shocks

That’s kinda what I figured but I was surprised to see this happen under street use lol. Granted I’m with no sway bars and was leaning pretty hard but the fact that I’ve never heard it under off-road conditions before is kind of what threw me off


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[aemravan]

Not going to lie.. I am impressed so far.. Very impressed. Really wish I went this route to start with.. could have not wasted 600 bucks I’m gonna lose selling the icons and the wait time was next to none. But it is what it is now, they are on and pretty awesome.

The ramp test at my old job yielded the tire below the door line, and I think it may have gone just a tad bit more but not much.

The bump stops will need some modification. They completely miss the axle at full bump bc I have the axle pushed so far back. At full bump I have about .25” of shock still exposed and the tire fully clears the door, bumpers, and flare that I clearanced.

The driveshaft interference with the gas tank skid will need to be figured out as well.. it definitely hits and bends it back out when it pushes over at full bump.

More work to do I guess but looking promising for next season !










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[aemravan]

a quick sidenote to yesterday's flex test.. I was looking at the previous pictures on this same ramp and obviously since I wasn't hitting a bump stop in the rear there was nothing to push the vehicle weight down/forward to compress the front shocks. There is a lot more total articulation in the system but I won't be able to see it until I can sort out the bump stop situation. I haven't looked into it yet, but more than likely it will require some welding to push the bump stop back about 2-3 inches (since I'm never going to bring the axle back again).

With that said, these new shock/springs definitely introduce a lot more roll in turns since I'm not running a sway bar. It is at a point where I could become borderline uncomfortable for street driving if I had to make a quick evasive turn. But aside from the on-road issue, on the trail I imagine it doing something similar when I get off-camber and start leaning, the body will just want to keep going. I'm not looking to run a sway bar (not a stock one anyhow) so I am now seriously considering looking into going the Currie (or something similar) anti-rock route (Maybe I'm wrong.. but all these antirock bars are really just a sway bar but are significantly less stiff and are able to articulate more than the short/stiff oem bars) since I've seen it at least partially documented on here on a 4th gen.

The front will remain with no sway bar, but the rear definitely needs something done.. lol.

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

a quick sidenote to yesterday's flex test.. I was looking at the previous pictures on this same ramp and obviously since I wasn't hitting a bump stop in the rear there was nothing to push the vehicle weight down/forward to compress the front shocks. There is a lot more total articulation in the system but I won't be able to see it until I can sort out the bump stop situation. I haven't looked into it yet, but more than likely it will require some welding to push the bump stop back about 2-3 inches (since I'm never going to bring the axle back again).

With that said, these new shock/springs definitely introduce a lot more roll in turns since I'm not running a sway bar. It is at a point where I could become borderline uncomfortable for street driving if I had to make a quick evasive turn. But aside from the on-road issue, on the trail I imagine it doing something similar when I get off-camber and start leaning, the body will just want to keep going. I'm not looking to run a sway bar (not a stock one anyhow) so I am now seriously considering looking into going the Currie (or something similar) anti-rock route (Maybe I'm wrong.. but all these antirock bars are really just a sway bar but are significantly less stiff and are able to articulate more than the short/stiff oem bars) since I've seen it at least partially documented on here on a 4th gen.

The front will remain with no sway bar, but the rear definitely needs something done.. lol.

Yes a sway bar of some form in the rear will help the front articulate more when the weight is off the nose, like it is in the pics, at least in theory.

Might look into other brands other than Currie, some might be better in terms of price and adjustability for our rigs. I believe stiffer torsion bars and shorter arms are for desert racing, whereas more flexible torsion bars and longer arms are better for rock crawling. I believe they make some with adjustable length arms and bars you can swap out. My brother has the TK1 Racing sway bar on his FJ.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

Yes a sway bar of some form in the rear will help the front articulate more when the weight is off the nose, like it is in the pics, at least in theory.

Might look into other brands other than Currie, some might be better in terms of price and adjustability for our rigs. I believe stiffer torsion bars and shorter arms are for desert racing, whereas more flexible torsion bars and longer arms are better for rock crawling. I believe they make some with adjustable length arms and bars you can swap out. My brother has the TK1 Racing sway bar on his FJ.

Thanks man, doing some research now. I did come across a couple of posts with the Currie bar that seems to be pretty much a bolt-on solution, and have seen other weld mounts for it, which i"m not opposed doing. But quickly after looking into the currie bar I decided it was an absolutely ridiculous amount to spend on a simple torsion bar, so I went with a similar (probably same exact) setup as your brother with the TK1 racing sway bar for the Toyota application with the lowest spring rate rockcrawling option. With the amount of adjustability it has in it I should be able to get it dialed in pretty close to perfect, so excited to see how it works out when it gets here.

[aemravan]

well.. ended up ordering the TK1 Racing rear anti-rock bar kit for the toyota, excited to see how this thing will install and perform.

On top of that I also made the decision that the rear bump stop/extension I have isn't exactly ideal, and since I have to cut and move it anyhow, I decided i'll spend the extra $200 bucks and go with a proper bump stop from Dobinsons that was meant to go with this LT rear setup... So I also ordered the Timbren ABSTORSEQ Active Off Road Rear Bumpstops Kit and it's already on the way. This way I can be certain that I won't be bottoming out the shock next time I'm out wheeling.

did someone say a bank account on wheels? Oh , and I can't ever take out the money I deposit? Sweet!

[awhitney1]

Do you have the link for the rear anti-rock sway bar?

Thanks man!

Originally Posted by aemravan

well.. ended up ordering the TK1 Racing rear anti-rock bar kit for the toyota, excited to see how this thing will install and perform.

On top of that I also made the decision that the rear bump stop/extension I have isn't exactly ideal, and since I have to cut and move it anyhow, I decided i'll spend the extra $200 bucks and go with a proper bump stop from Dobinsons that was meant to go with this LT rear setup... So I also ordered the Timbren ABSTORSEQ Active Off Road Rear Bumpstops Kit and it's already on the way. This way I can be certain that I won't be bottoming out the shock next time I'm out wheeling.

did someone say a bank account on wheels? Oh , and I can't ever take out the money I deposit? Sweet!

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Do you have the link for the rear anti-rock sway bar?

Thanks man!

TOYOTA PU AND 4 RUNNER - AND IFS TO STRAIGHT AXLE CONVERSIONS

For the options I got mine with the Mounting Bracket add, Rock Crawling-High Articulation (medium rate), and the billet endcaps.

They had a doubleshear option for the arms, but from their description I don't believe I would need it and it also saves 100 bucks.

[awhitney1]

Thanks for the info. I'm running no rear sway bar links with the Dana60 and at highway speeds going around corners gets a little tippy!

Originally Posted by aemravan

TOYOTA PU AND 4 RUNNER - AND IFS TO STRAIGHT AXLE CONVERSIONS

For the options I got mine with the Mounting Bracket add, Rock Crawling-High Articulation (medium rate), and the billet endcaps.

They had a doubleshear option for the arms, but from their description I don't believe I would need it and it also saves 100 bucks.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Thanks for the info. I'm running no rear sway bar links with the Dana60 and at highway speeds going around corners gets a little tippy!

yea that's half of my concern as well since 95% of the time this is a street rig... it's to the point where I can see it getting really dangerous if I had to avoid something. But also on the trails without something to help push down the opposite side it's just going to keep wanting to lean over which in turn will make all this awesome extra articulation kind of pointless.. lol.

[awhitney1]

Right there with you! Looking forward to seeing you install your rear sway bar setup!

Originally Posted by aemravan

yea that's half of my concern as well since 95% of the time this is a street rig... it's to the point where I can see it getting really dangerous if I had to avoid something. But also on the trails without something to help push down the opposite side it's just going to keep wanting to lean over which in turn will make all this awesome extra articulation kind of pointless.. lol.

[aemravan]

Did another quick test drive this evening and I am almost certain that my passenger side upper link mount on the axle is back to contacting the cross member above it at full compression.

I pretty much expected it since I pushed the axle back so much, and I had this interference issue happening with the axle while it was still almost an inch forward, but was clocked back a ton giving me too steep of a pinion angle. Now figure out what an acceptable pinion angle is..

I'll have to do some investigating while installing the sway bar and bump stops and see how bad it is. More than likely what i'll have to do is just notch the upper member and make some clearance for it. I believe its the cross member that dips down to support the panhard bracket, and my long-term plan is to have it removed altogether anyhow in favour of a 3-link setup ...so.... chop chop!

[aemravan]

Not many updates as far as the build goes, but I did get a chance to get out into this winter storm for some snow camping and driving. Pretty cool experience, but took forever to get back home. The road conditions were absolutely terrible. Got some pretty cool pictures though.










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[awhitney1]

Good to see you got the 4runner out!

You still have those rear swat bar parts on order?

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Good to see you got the 4runner out!

You still have those rear swat bar parts on order?

Hey man ! I do , I actually got the order in but looks like I should have specified a longer torsion bar, I got it at the standard 45inches it comes with bc it didn’t give me an option to select, but I actually needed a 48 inch bar. They’re are swapping it out with me though and I should have it next week.


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