[aemravan]

Yup..





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[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

Yup..



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I approve of this.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

I approve of this.

couldn't beat it for $9 from Home Depot and 5 minutes with a utility knife to cut out bottom haha

[aemravan]

I was flipping through IG yesterday and saw one of the offroad shops I follow post up a picture of the LC200 rack next to the factory 4runner rack comparing how much beefier it is. It generated quite a few comments with interested folks asking about the swap and whether it was a quick upgrade, etc.

I chimed in and responded to a few folks since I have very fresh experience, gave a few heads up about geometry and cost and the amount of work. Not surprisingly had a few folks come back with " yea but you can't do this on the factory width control arms" so I ran them through what I did and got into a few discussions on bumpsteer..

I had multiple people tell me that big name shops have specifically told them that this swap will not work with factory control arm setup because of "geometry". huh....? This leads me to believe that there are shops out there pushing to sell LT kits along with the upgrade (maybe I just have no faith in this world lol) or there is just a gross misunderstanding from a lot of these shops when it comes to geometry and bump steer.

What was surprising is that shortly after these comments went up.. the original post was deleted and replaced by non-steeringrack related content and conversation.. Interesting.. lol.

I have a few guys swear up and down that the way for me to fix my bump steer is my going to a LT kit since it would lengthen the tie rod. The fact that the it would lengthen proportionally to the increase in control arm length seemed to be an impossible thought for them to process.. Anyhow.. just thought it was interesting since I have wondered what all these places are doing about bump steer on these rigs... which I am just about convinced at this point that it is nothing at all.. They either live with it on road and not bothered by it while rock crawling (which is my case) and maybe the guys doing desert runs with high speed suspension cycling not being impacted AS much as I'm seeing on road since the lack of traction on sand allows the tire to scrub without pulling much... who knows.. lol.


I think this may just confirm that I need to SAS this thing and not have to worry about any form of bump steer ever again

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

I was flipping through IG yesterday and saw one of the offroad shops I follow post up a picture of the LC200 rack next to the factory 4runner rack comparing how much beefier it is. It generated quite a few comments with interested folks asking about the swap and whether it was a quick upgrade, etc.

I chimed in and responded to a few folks since I have very fresh experience, gave a few heads up about geometry and cost and the amount of work. Not surprisingly had a few folks come back with " yea but you can't do this on the factory width control arms" so I ran them through what I did and got into a few discussions on bumpsteer..

I had multiple people tell me that big name shops have specifically told them that this swap will not work with factory control arm setup because of "geometry". huh....? This leads me to believe that there are shops out there pushing to sell LT kits along with the upgrade (maybe I just have no faith in this world lol) or there is just a gross misunderstanding from a lot of these shops when it comes to geometry and bump steer.

What was surprising is that shortly after these comments went up.. the original post was deleted and replaced by non-steeringrack related content and conversation.. Interesting.. lol.

I have a few guys swear up and down that the way for me to fix my bump steer is my going to a LT kit since it would lengthen the tie rod. The fact that the it would lengthen proportionally to the increase in control arm length seemed to be an impossible thought for them to process.. Anyhow.. just thought it was interesting since I have wondered what all these places are doing about bump steer on these rigs... which I am just about convinced at this point that it is nothing at all.. They either live with it on road and not bothered by it while rock crawling (which is my case) and maybe the guys doing desert runs with high speed suspension cycling not being impacted AS much as I'm seeing on road since the lack of traction on sand allows the tire to scrub without pulling much... who knows.. lol.


I think this may just confirm that I need to SAS this thing and not have to worry about any form of bump steer ever again

I really should take an afternoon and measure my brother's bumpsteer compared to mine. That way we at least have some real world numbers to show for it. Brother's LT kit has a bit more travel than my LT kit but we should be able to plot out some curves to compare the two steering racks at different points in the travel.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

I really should take an afternoon and measure my brother's bumpsteer compared to mine. That way we at least have some real world numbers to show for it. Brother's LT kit has a bit more travel than my LT kit but we should be able to plot out some curves to compare the two steering racks at different points in the travel.

yea..I was looking to do the same with mine.. the most accurate way I can thinkin of doing it is to remove the shock, get the rig of the ground, and cycle the suspension that way so the point of reference doesn't change since it seems that every time I jack it up the entire rig shifts left/right and front/back.

There is no question at all whatsoever that there is toe-in at droop because I can physically watch the tire turn in as it unloads, just a matter of plotting out some points on the graph for different shock travel positions vs toe-in distance..

I guess I could probably rig up a way to get a reference plane transposed using a laser from the ride-height position on the wheel up to the bumper/fender somewhere and use that to try and pull an angel measurement as it toes in but I wouldn't be able to do full bump anyhow with the shock still in place.

[aemravan]

So… hear me out here… 5.7L Toyota v8….. I’m not saying it fits.. but I’m not saying it couldn’t… 380hp of Toyota goodness .. lol .. just saying …


https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/05/...-swap-5th-gen/

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[4RunnerAquasport]

Originally Posted by aemravan

yea..I was looking to do the same with mine.. the most accurate way I can thinkin of doing it is to remove the shock, get the rig of the ground, and cycle the suspension that way so the point of reference doesn't change since it seems that every time I jack it up the entire rig shifts left/right and front/back.

There is no question at all whatsoever that there is toe-in at droop because I can physically watch the tire turn in as it unloads, just a matter of plotting out some points on the graph for different shock travel positions vs toe-in distance..

I guess I could probably rig up a way to get a reference plane transposed using a laser from the ride-height position on the wheel up to the bumper/fender somewhere and use that to try and pull an angel measurement as it toes in but I wouldn't be able to do full bump anyhow with the shock still in place.

I made some 2 foot straight edges out of 1" aluminum angle and bolted them to the hubs.
My reference was string stretched front to back on jack stands.
All the measurements were damn close to Mason's CAD model numbers.
I even bought some Coachbuilder OTEs, and they helped, but only .75 to 1" throught the travel.
Maybe I could've been flawed in my process, but it was too much of a coincidence to be that close to a CAD model.
The last 3-4" of droop, you could physically see the hubs go pidgeon toed, without even measuring.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport

I made some 2 foot straight edges out of 1" aluminum angle and bolted them to the hubs.
My reference was string stretched front to back on jack stands.
All the measurements were damn close to Mason's CAD model numbers.
I even bought some Coachbuilder OTEs, and they helped, but only .75 to 1" throught the travel.
Maybe I could've been flawed in my process, but it was too much of a coincidence to be that close to a CAD model.
The last 3-4" of droop, you could physically see the hubs go pidgeon toed, without even measuring.

it's definitely not a coincidence.. the geometry isn't rocket surgery so as long as you have the suspension pickup point relatively close to where they really are the calculated numbers should be just about spot on.

Even with my stock length arms I can watch my wheel pigeon-toe in if I jack up the front end and let them droop out all the way.

[phatcheeks]

Originally Posted by aemravan

So… hear me out here… 5.7L Toyota v8….. I’m not saying it fits.. but I’m not saying it couldn’t… 380hp of Toyota goodness .. lol .. just saying …


https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/05/...-swap-5th-gen/

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Do it!

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by phatcheeks

Do it!

I mean I am seriously considering this... lol. Biggest complication is that I would need a dedicated shop/space to do this with a lift. There's no way I'm doing this in the driveway lol..

I already looked at some Tundras on Copart under the NonRebuildable options and theres quite a few options that I think could be had for a decent price. Would be one hell of a build!

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

So… hear me out here… 5.7L Toyota v8….. I’m not saying it fits.. but I’m not saying it couldn’t… 380hp of Toyota goodness .. lol .. just saying …


https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/05/...-swap-5th-gen/

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Could get equal to that power or more with about 2k in a supercharger setup for the 4.7L.

800 for a used refurbished eaton M90 from a 90s mustang, plus 1k in piggyback tuner from URD and upgrade injectors and fuel pump from URD. Machine the stock aluminum intake manifold flat and weld on an adapter plate for the blower.

Add headers and exhaust for a bit more power.

I've thought about it but would do it first to my 4.7 mini tundra and see how it goes before attempting on my 4Runner.

[aemravan]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

Could get equal to that power or more with about 2k in a supercharger setup for the 4.7L.

800 for a used refurbished eaton M90 from a 90s mustang, plus 1k in piggyback tuner from URD and upgrade injectors and fuel pump from URD. Machine the stock aluminum intake manifold flat and weld on an adapter plate for the blower.

Add headers and exhaust for a bit more power.

I've thought about it but would do it first to my 4.7 mini tundra and see how it goes before attempting on my 4Runner.

Thats certainly an option for a power add for sure. However, then you're talking about taxing the factory internals quite a bit vs having 1L additional displacement and 100% stock power and torque adder . Not to mention.. you could also throw a blower on to the 5.7l for even more gains

Now obviously I don't NEED either of the options lol, just thought it could be a viable motor swap, albeit with a ton of custom work..

Maybe I just need to pick up a 1st gen taco and turn it into a Tacundra with an SAS instead of making plans to transform the current setup even further from what it has already become.

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by aemravan

Thats certainly an option for a power add for sure. However, then you're talking about taxing the factory internals quite a bit vs having 1L additional displacement and 100% stock power and torque adder . Not to mention.. you could also throw a blower on to the 5.7l for even more gains

Now obviously I don't NEED either of the options lol, just thought it could be a viable motor swap, albeit with a ton of custom work..

Maybe I just need to pick up a 1st gen taco and turn it into a Tacundra with an SAS instead of making plans to transform the current setup even further from what it has already become.

If you want reliability I don't know if transplanting and entire computer system is any better than adding a blower. But yeah over time my Tundra with 220k might not last long with another 100hp.

If the motor blew it would be cheaper to buy another Tundra as I bought it for only 3k and that's how much a used motor is.

Then again it could still make it to 1 million or even half that would be great.

[aemravan]

We’ll that escalated quickly …






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