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Old 05-14-2023, 10:52 PM #931
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Doing some further reconfiguring on the camping setup.. decided to sell my slide tilt fridge setup in favor of a bit smaller fridge, but a slide drawer design that fits right in my existing cabinet .. no more having a bulky fridge up top that is inaccessible once the rig is packed out.

This should also give me much more usable space when Iím not camping. I just need to repack all the supplies that were in that drawer, but it wasnít all that much.. Iím considering doing the pack out set that locks to a bottom mount plate, but for the time being I think Iím just going to go the plastic bin route. Eventually the plan is to sell the hardshell RTT and stick a Thule carrier on the rack to house most of the camping gear. Initial test fitting is looking promising.







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Old 05-16-2023, 08:56 PM #932
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Working on some drawer ventilation for the new fridge.

Now just need to clean up the wiring and secure the fridge into the opening.






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Old 05-17-2023, 09:38 PM #933
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So I figured this would be worth sharing since Iíve been chasing this for what seems to be forever Ö
For the longest time I had a weird clunk coming out of the front end that I just couldnít pin point..

It would show itself bad in a right hand turn under braking. I could also feel something weird in the floor board while braking and accelerating from a stop ..

My two thoughts were my modified steering shaft hitting the motor mount since the clearance was very little. And maybe the jba ball joint starting to go ..

Nope Ö finally tracked my issue down to a loose body mount that I relocated under the driver and passenger side Ö lol. Just needed to get cranked down on a bit. So far everything seems to be back to 100% clunk free.

Super excited. Itís the little victories.. lol


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Old 05-18-2023, 10:42 AM #934
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Originally Posted by aemravan View Post
So I figured this would be worth sharing since Iíve been chasing this for what seems to be forever Ö
For the longest time I had a weird clunk coming out of the front end that I just couldnít pin point..

It would show itself bad in a right hand turn under braking. I could also feel something weird in the floor board while braking and accelerating from a stop ..

My two thoughts were my modified steering shaft hitting the motor mount since the clearance was very little. And maybe the jba ball joint starting to go ..

Nope Ö finally tracked my issue down to a loose body mount that I relocated under the driver and passenger side Ö lol. Just needed to get cranked down on a bit. So far everything seems to be back to 100% clunk free.

Super excited. Itís the little victories.. lol


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Stuff like this usually comes down to something you've touched. I had a clunk on mine for the longest time and couldn't figure it out. Turns out it was the lower ball joint bolts being loose because I had pulled the CV axles out to reboot and didn't torque everything down after
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Old 05-18-2023, 01:24 PM #935
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Stuff like this usually comes down to something you've touched. I had a clunk on mine for the longest time and couldn't figure it out. Turns out it was the lower ball joint bolts being loose because I had pulled the CV axles out to reboot and didn't torque everything down after
100% agreed. The problem for me is that I have literally touched something on the rig... and to a very large extent lol. So it makes it a bit hard to back track through. Luckily the last few things ended up being something very easy and stupid.

I did also have an issue with the passenger side lower ball joint bracket bolts coming loose for the same reason... kept getting a clunk and backing up and hitting the brakes and could not for the life of me tell where it was from... then just happened to see the fact that both bolts were not only loose, but starting to back out... yikes.. lol lesson learned for sure.
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Old 05-21-2023, 09:30 PM #936
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Did a little 4runner repurposing today. RTT is off and the Thule box is test fitted along with an Apache box from harbinger fright I snagged on sale for $130 is on as well. It is amazing how much stuff this moved from inside the rig and onto the rack.









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Old 06-15-2023, 10:04 PM #937
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Out with the new, in with the old

RCV is no more.




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Old 06-19-2023, 02:24 PM #938
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anybody in need of half-off RCV's or know anyone that may be??

I'll ship these anywhere to the lower 48 for $1100 (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-t4r-items/310861-4th-gen-4runner-rcv-axles-$1100-charlotte-nc.html)
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Old 07-14-2023, 02:22 PM #939
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haven't been able to do much with the rig (not that there's a ton to do at this point ) lately but the factory CV axles I picked up and swapped for the RCV's are holding up great so far, no noise, no leaks, no weird vibrations, all things I was experiencing with the RCV's.

Have not had any luck selling the RCV's, even at $900 so I guess I'm one of the few 4th gen guys that isn't doing KOH that was splurging on non-napa axles to throw into the rig lol. I may hold onto them long term in case I finally make time to tub the firewall and run 37's.. but that's starting to be less and less of an appealing idea.. I have recently started thinking about an LC80 platform import out of Japan like one of my coworkers just did.. under 20k, turbo diesel, solid axle front from the factory, full float rear axle.. sounds more and more appealing here lol.


But on a more serious note, yesterday I finally fixed a noise that has been driving me absolutely insane for the past 6 months or so.. I initially narrowed it down to the drivers side body mount bolt coming loose, but didn't initially give it any thought as to why it happened. I've tightened the bolt twice since then, and kept hearing and feeling a noise every time I would start or stop as the body flexed.. well, it finally hit me.. I neglected to put the large solid washer on top and bottom of the relocation kit bushing which allowed the metal sleeve insert/pin in the center of it to slowly push it's way up into my body mount plastic spacer, which obviously would give way slightly, allowing this pin to ride up and down against the body mount, causing the noise I was feeling and allowing the bolt to come loose over time as the gap between the top of the mount and bottom of the body would decrease slowly.

With this recent fix I can confirm that quite literally 90% of the issues I have faced with my rig were 100% self induced... which kind of reassures my new build mentality of keeping things OEM+ .. as in modify the absolute bare minimum for what you need the rig to do.. (or maybe I just suck at building stuff lmao)
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Old 07-14-2023, 08:54 PM #940
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It's hard to compete with the Japanese engineers! They really seem to understand what they are doing and their build of our 4Runners is the proof. Mine is an '03 as well and it amazes me how sturdy this thing still is. My trans cooler piping is starting to leak though, but 20 years on it in the rust belt is pretty good! I've changed out two of the hoses and the piping behind/under the radiator and their hose was still soft and pliable, the clamps had rotted away though.
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Old 08-28-2023, 09:20 AM #941
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aemravan's build thread - project TacoRunner

Been a while since I've jumped on here, as with many threads on extensive builds I guess you get to a point where you really don't have much to upgrade (or just run out of funds to do so ? lol)



I have been wrenching on the Taco over the past month or two, primarily on some maintenance stuff, and odds and ends that I've wanted to do.

The last round included pulling apart the center console again to better seal up the the hole that remained of the FJ transfer case swap that is no longer in place. Took some thing gauge sheet metal from home depot and used rivets and a ton of seam sealer to close everything up. Still kicking myself for throwing out the ac duct tube that went under the ashtray to get air to the back seats, but made some flex duct stuff I had from my diesel heater that seems to work decently for the time being.



I also had weird clunking noise that seemingly came from the driver side relocated body mount, come to find out I installed the bushing assembly wrong and that is the reason the bolt kept getting loose.. the more I wrench on this the more I realize I truly don't know what the hell im doing sometimes lol





This weekends adventures include a 3 part ordeal I've been meaning to tackle.. I was having some transfer case fluid seeping out from what seemed to be the housing that mates to the transmission.. and is meant to stay dry. I ordered the t-case input shaft seal to have on hand, and sure as well, as soon as I separated the t-case from the transmission I had damn near a half a bottle of fluid come out. I probably should replace the transmission seal on the tail end as well.. but nobody seems to have it in stock and I don't feel like waiting, plus dropping the case on these things is literally a 30 minute ordeal so I'm not sweating having to do it again it comes to it. Waiting for the RTV to cure now so I can throw this thing in later this afternoon and fill it up for a drive tomorrow. Hopefully no more seeping.



While the driveshaft is off I also want to separate and clean off the current grease and use more appropriate stuff (since apparently I've been using the wrong grease) to see if I can keep it sliding more freely on compression without feeling the thud every time I go to accelerate.



The other thing that I tackled was swapping out my rear Dobinsons springs for a lighter spring rate.. ever since I got rid of the RTT and big fridge the rear has been jacked up into the air with crazy rake, effectively getting rid of any caster I had. I wish an option was to lift the front to match, but with my recent goal of trying to make parts last a bit longer, the logical solution was to drop the rear. Went through 2 batteries on a 700ft-lb impact driver compressing the springs in and out, I had doing these big spring lol, but they are in and ride pretty damn good and sits a lot more level like I wanted.

While the springs were out I was able to fully compress the rear axle to check for clearance everywhere since occasionally on back-to-back hills I would hear something impacting, and I believe it was the corner of the passenger side upper link mount against the cross member above it. Shaved off the corner a bit to give it more clearance and will need to do some testing once it's road worthy again.



I have a 2 night beach camping trip coming up in 1.5 weeks so I want to make sure everything is buttoned up and in good shape, but overall it seems that the last round of modifications (back to stock) are holding up decent.



My rear axle is slid back quite a bit and the angle of the rear sway bar links to the mounts is out of whack by a bit, so at some point in the future I may cut them off and relocate the back a bit for proper factory geometry.




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Old 08-28-2023, 03:32 PM #942
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Ran out and threw the transfer case back into the rig during lunch before the afternoon storms come through. I'll have to wait to fill it up since I didn't get to the RTV until around 9 p.m. last night and it calls for 24 hours.. doubt i'll have the patience to go all the way to 9 but I figured it's a bit soon now to test drive, definitely don't want any RTV-related leaks to deal with later, though I'll likely have to drop it again at some point and replace the transmission output shaft/extension housing shaft seal since nobody had it locally and I didn't want to drive the supra to work in the rain tomorrow.. I don't think it's bad, or at least it wasn't fully bad until I put the case it. I may have nicked it a bit going back in since I had a bit of transmission fluid in the housing before tightening everything up, or maybe I'm lucky and it was just a bit that spilled while the seal compressed Oh and by the way, don't be like me.... don't run 85w-140 in the transfer because you misunderstood what ECGS said about running it in all their applications... it only applies to the front and rear diffs I've been running the same damn fluid in all 3 on my FJ t case.. luckily I've only done maybe 250miles on this fluid since going back to factory... on the bright side, it probably probably was too thick to really leak out of the seal Just got some 75w-90 synthetic valvoline flex fill in a pouch to try out on this go around.

I'm also hoping I got my driveshaft together in the proper orientation since I took it apart and pumped all the old grease out and filled with the proper stuff.. my marks didn't stay as visible as I had hoped.. so any new vibration will surely be the result of that lol. Time will tell.

I also kept finding conflicting information on the amount of grease, hydro-locking the shaft with too much, etc... since I took everything bit of grease out of my shaft I doubt the typical 3-6 pumps is enough.. i've read about guys pumping 30-50 into theirs (way too much if you ask me lol) with no issues, while others being petrified about hydro-locking the during a compression and cracking the transfer case (also seems to be a bit excessive lol) so I went with maybe 10 pumps, squeezed a bit out through the zerk fitting hole, and extended it to the case and mounted it up. I guess i'll see if the stop/start thud is there and pump in a bit more grease as needed. My axle is pretty far back compared to stock so I feel pretty confident that an extra 3-6 pumps won't do any damage, and may actually be required.


oh, and there's a good chance I may be back to looking at some heavy modifications for 37s/38 in the not-so-distant future... since my brother and his wife decided they're about to throw their '17 rubicon on some damn 40's or 42's on some tons.... yay... lol
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Old 08-28-2023, 05:09 PM #943
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37s should be interesting.
I read somewhere on greasing the drive shaft, that if you see it expand and slide out a tiny bit, that should be good.
Don't know how accurate that is though....
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Old 08-29-2023, 09:10 AM #944
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37s should be interesting.
I read somewhere on greasing the drive shaft, that if you see it expand and slide out a tiny bit, that should be good.
Don't know how accurate that is though....
it's 50/50 on that process.. some say if you see it expand you're good, others say if you see it expand you're way past where you need to be in volume since that technically means it can't compress anymore from that point. I will say that trying to compress it by hand with some grease in it is damn near impossible once you hit the grease point. It's smooth sailing until you hit the packed grease, and then it feels like you're hitting a solid stop.

Anyhow, so far so good on the clunk from it as of this morning, but thats only 16 miles. I"ll see how it does throughout the week.



37's have always been an end goal of mine.. purely aesthetically purposed.. I've given up on the idea of doing hard core wheeling in this setup so the non-optimal travel from 37's won't be much of a detriment. But realistically speaking.. this is probably far, far away.. I won't have the time I'd need to invest to do everything, especially now that it's mostly decently running lol.

And then there's the 2024 Landcruiser that just got announced.... daddy likely! so I may not even have funds to keep dropping into this build for a long long while. Time will tell
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Old 08-29-2023, 12:23 PM #945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan View Post
And then there's the 2024 Landcruiser that just got announced.... daddy likely! so I may not even have funds to keep dropping into this build for a long long while. Time will tell
The LC and the new Lexus look so good. Mildly build and camp out of it, would be sick.

But also, the next gen 4Runner could be just as good and worth the wait.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread

Last edited by Inv4drZm; 08-29-2023 at 12:30 PM.
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