03-31-2021, 10:24 AM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Electric Hammer Drill for Removing Steering Shaft
I'm gearing up to replace my Rack and Pinion (if the damn thing will ship), and my main concern is getting the lower intermediate steering shaft off the splines.
If I'm lucky, a BFH and a pry bar should work fine. But I'm worried about what happens if I'm not lucky. Is there any alternative to getting an air hammer? I'm all electric, not air tools, and trying to see if I have any options.
I do have an electric hammer drill, but I'm not sure if that will work in this case.
Any clever ideas I'm missing?
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 10:45 AM
|
#2
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
|
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
|
you "shouldnt" have a problem removing the shaft off the splines unless its very rusty... if it doesnt come free i would try some heat from a propane torch on the outside clamp part which will expand it & break free any rust or corrosion & should allow it to slide off without too much effort.
heat almost always works to break free stuck parts or rusted bolts, the key is to heat the outside part or nut so it expands, avoid heating the inner part or bolt threads if possible so they stay cooler & dont expand (as much) ive had great results using heat on 25-30+ year old rusty cars & it will get all but the worst bolts/parts to break free.
good luck!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 11:18 AM
|
#3
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebirdguy
you "shouldnt" have a problem removing the shaft off the splines unless its very rusty... if it doesnt come free i would try some heat from a propane torch on the outside clamp part which will expand it & break free any rust or corrosion & should allow it to slide off without too much effort.
heat almost always works to break free stuck parts or rusted bolts, the key is to heat the outside part or nut so it expands, avoid heating the inner part or bolt threads if possible so they stay cooler & dont expand (as much) ive had great results using heat on 25-30+ year old rusty cars & it will get all but the worst bolts/parts to break free.
good luck!
|
It's the "shouldn't" I'm worried about xD
This car is a southern car, but I'm pretty sure the U joint isn't in great shape any more, even though its not rusty and crusty. I am planning to replace the intermediate shaft while I'm at it, because it seems crazy to remove something on 186k mile car and put it back on unless you know its good.
My worry comes from the face that ball joint removal on this vehicle required serious mechanical ford. Pickle forks did not work. So something that says the best procedure is banging on it with a hammer, and maybe adding some heat, makes me nervous.
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 11:58 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
Seeing you don't live up here it shouldn't be too hard to remove especially if you soak it in something like PB blaster. The space is tight though. I ended up cutting mine with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder and dremel because of rust.
__________________
Mike
03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 12:53 PM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
Seeing you don't live up here it shouldn't be too hard to remove especially if you soak it in something like PB blaster. The space is tight though. I ended up cutting mine with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder and dremel because of rust.
|
Huh, you were able to get an angle grinder in there? Not sure how I would do that.
Since I have a new intermediate shaft, if it does get stuck this is in fact an option.
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 04:49 PM
|
#6
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Age: 62
Posts: 145
Real Name: Steven
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Age: 62
Posts: 145
Real Name: Steven
|
I live in the rust belt and my intermeadiate steering shaft was siezed on real good. My under powered air hammer wouldn't budge it.
I ended up using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut away small chunks of it at a time until it popped free with a hammer & punch.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 04:58 PM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 2,052
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 2,052
|
Don’t overthink it, a cold chisel and a small handle 3 pound sledge will work. The lower ball joints on these cars are the worst to get off, everything else is cake.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 05:07 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere, yet nowhere
Posts: 1,739
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere, yet nowhere
Posts: 1,739
|
Remove the bolts and Try to spread the clamp open first with an air hammer before trying to persuade it off. I cant imagine hammering the rack pinion with a BFH would do your rack much good.
__________________
2007 4Runner Sport 4WD 4.0L 228,000 miles
The real stats on gun murders in America compared to the world (link)
Good riddance to the Clinton Crime Family--> I Voted TRUMP…how’s it going for you now Trump is gone? Be careful what you ask for. You may just get it.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
03-31-2021, 05:57 PM
|
#9
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 1,597
Real Name: Ron
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 1,597
Real Name: Ron
|
When I did mine I beat on it with a drift and hammer for an hour, did'nt budge!
Got the propane torch out and gave it some heat and it came right off. Greased the new one up good before install.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 11:24 AM
|
#10
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
|
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
When I did mine I beat on it with a drift and hammer for an hour, did'nt budge!
Got the propane torch out and gave it some heat and it came right off. Greased the new one up good before install.
|
yep, heat is your friend for things like this. & soaking with some penetrating oil before hand is a good idea too.
if its a southern car it "should" come off ok. as a last resort you can use a BFH but as mentioned its probably not too good for the rack & limited space in there to get a good swing.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 12:13 PM
|
#11
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
Don’t overthink it, a cold chisel and a small handle 3 pound sledge will work. The lower ball joints on these cars are the worst to get off, everything else is cake.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
Cool. Main reason I was concerned was how many people seemed to need air hammers to get the damn thing off... But a lot of those also appear to be people with major rust problems. PBlaster, a cold chisel/piece of metal, and my 4 lb mini sledge should do the job nicely.
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 12:14 PM
|
#12
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee
Remove the bolts and Try to spread the clamp open first with an air hammer before trying to persuade it off. I cant imagine hammering the rack pinion with a BFH would do your rack much good.
|
Not hammering the rack and pinion. You put the cold chisel on the u joint and bang on that. Both the Rack and the shaft are getting replaced so damage isn't a huge deal.
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 03:37 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate
Huh, you were able to get an angle grinder in there? Not sure how I would do that.
Since I have a new intermediate shaft, if it does get stuck this is in fact an option.
|
Sorry, not specific enough... 4" die grinder in reality. May have used a sawzall too. I threw lots of tools at it.
Not sure if this was mentioned but I did most of the work through the wheel well.
__________________
Mike
03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 03:42 PM
|
#14
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,177
Real Name: Mike
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
Don’t overthink it, a cold chisel and a small handle 3 pound sledge will work. The lower ball joints on these cars are the worst to get off, everything else is cake.
|
Curious, why would you need to remove the lower balljoint for the steering shaft? Also, why would it be hard to remove? These guys have a couple bolts you remove and the balljoint with small bar attached drops off the rest of the knuckle.
__________________
Mike
03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-01-2021, 04:08 PM
|
#15
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 511
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
Curious, why would you need to remove the lower balljoint for the steering shaft? Also, why would it be hard to remove? These guys have a couple bolts you remove and the balljoint with small bar attached drops off the rest of the knuckle.
|
I think that was more a general statement because I am worried about getting the steering shaft off because of my experience changing out the LCAs. While the balljoint attaches to those bolts, getting it off that bar is a bear. I had to use a pitman arm puller and an impact to separate them when I changed out my LCA.
Also, I'm going to have to separate tie rods because I am ultimately changing out the whole rack, not just the steering shaft. It's just since I have to disconnect the steering shaft anyway to change out the rack, it makes sense to replace it.
__________________
2007 v8 4Runner Limited Build thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ing-build.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|