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Old 11-15-2015, 08:58 PM #1
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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ExpeditionBill’s 2003 4Runner SR5 4x4 Build

ExpeditionBill’s 2003 4Runner SR5 4x4.
________________________________________
2003 TOYOTA_4RUNNER SR5 4x4
Titanium Metallic (1D4)
4.0L V6 1GR-FE


Most recent picture as of July 30 2016:


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++


|October 1, 2015|
- I bought my 4Runner SR5 from the original owner with 132,000 miles.
The truck had PERFECT maintenance records, all of which was dealer performed.
Unfortunately, I heard some clanking in the suspension when I bought it, figured I was lifting it and didn't worry. After driving and further inspection, I noticed the front calipers pistons were all not working great and rusty and about to seize. So begins the money pit.


================================================== =============================



UPGRADES & MODIFICATIONS - As of November 15th, 2015.
Links to pictures/Write-ups can be found next to each item. (currently installing all the items below...will update with pics as I go.)

Suspension:
Front: ~2-2.5" lift
- OME 885 Coils 9 (medium)
- OME 90000 Nitrocharger shocks
- OME Trim packer – Driver side
- Toytec sway bar relocate (PG 1, Post 2)
- Light Racing – LR Upper Control Arms
- OEM Lower Control Arms (PG 1, Post 6)
- Moog Sway Bar end links
- OEM Outer Tie Rod End, Moog Inner Tie Rod end
Rear: ~2-2.5" lift
- OME 895 Coils (medium)
- OME 60004 Sport Shocks
- Moog Sway Bar end links


Wheels & Tires:
- 17x7 5th Gen 4Runner - TRD Pro Black (Pg 1, Post 3)
- 275/70/17 BF Goodrich KO2’s (Pg 1, Post 3)
- Nut Part # - 9094201058 (VERY IMPORTANT that you get the correct lugnuts!!!)

Engine & Performance Upgrades:
- Denso Iridium spark plugs
- OEM valve cover gaskets

Undercarriage / Drive Train Upgrades:
**Front End**
- 5th Gen 4Runner Centric Calipers (PG 1, Post 2)
- 5th Gen 4Runner Centric Rotors (PG 1, Post 2)
- 5th Gen 4Runner Akebono Brake Pads (PG 1, Post 2)
- Toytec 1" Differential Drop (PG 2, Post 16)

**Rear End**
- Rear Diff Breather Relocate (PG 4, Post 48)
- 5th Gen 2010 4Runner Centric Calipers
- 4th Gen 2003 4Runner Centric Rotors
- 5th Gen 2010 4Runner Akebono Brake Pads

Electrical Modifications:
-

Interior Upgrades:
-
**Interior Lighting**
-
Stereo/ CB/ HAM:
-
**CB Radio**
-
**HAM Radio**
-

Exterior Upgrades:
-
**Roof Rack**
-
**Exterior Lighting**
-
**Armor**
-


Possible Future Purchases/ Projects:
-

Last edited by ExpeditionBill; 07-06-2018 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:16 PM #2
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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So over the last month I have been stock piling parts.

Did 5th Gen 4Runner front Brakes Calipers and Rotors. Here are the part numbers:
(For you people who use the search)
Brake Pads - Akebono - ASP976
Calipers - Left - Driver Side - 141.44288
- Right - Passenger Side - 141.44287
Rotors - 120.44174


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Old 11-15-2015, 10:23 PM #3
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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Picked up these TRD Pro 4Runner rims at the dealership at cost and got the BFGoodrich KO2's from Discount Tire on ebay since it was $100 off every $400 you spent. Did 2 orders and saved $200 (thanks to someone on this forum that mentioned that deal was going on...I'll find you and thank you ).









Got the OME (Old Man Emu) suspension from Toytec, but turned out I got an old model strut and 3 new models. (They sent me the correct one).
You can see the difference here...



Also got new oem LCA's, Light Racing upper control arms (hopefully they last a while...had them for about a month and just read online that there are mixed reviews on people hating them). I also ended up getting new inner and outer tierod ends as well to just basically refresh the whole front end and get 1 alignment.


Attempted last weekend (Nov 7-8) to install and noticed LCA camber bolts were seized and pretty much most of the other bolts, castle nuts and even cotter pins rusted in place. I stripped the sway bar end links where the allen key goes...Had to order new end links and Moog LCA Camber Bolts.


Got the Sway bar relocate installed...lol minus a sway bar right now until I finish the front suspension.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:25 PM #4
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Dang, you jumped straight to the mods; you eager beaver! Those wheels will look nice- welcome to the forum!
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:30 PM #5
rich045 rich045 is offline
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the suspension, diff drop and sway bar relocation i did a month ago. how you liking it? i dig it a lot, it just a bit tight, feels kinda like coilovers lol
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:44 PM #6
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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So here we are Nov 14-15. 2nd attempt at installing. Was trying to install everything...after a day on the 1 corner and cutting the old LCA and bolts off with a sawzall...I realized I was in over my head.

Here is the aftermath of this war on Rust. (Me) (Rust)

So this back arm was seized.
Yes I took the nut off the one side, tried everything to break the bolt free.


This guy was not budging...


Half a day later on Saturday...said it.
Went thru 12 shitty sawzall blades. Do yourself a favor and dont buy harbor freight sawzall blades. I got 1 pack of DeWalt blades at Lowes and it cut right through.


I even had to cut the balljoint stud off because the tool I rented did not fit over that bracket to pop the bracket off the old ball joint.


Sunday rolled around and got the new LCA on the pass side front. Was going to just get the springs and struts in on the whole thing today so I can drive to work tomorrow. Was going to install the upper control arm and tie rod parts another weekend.

Pretty sure I screwed up one of those tabs on the frame that the camber bolt washer goes between. Hopefully I can get it bent back straight.




Finished just the LCA and OME strut/spring on 1 corner. Got to the driver side front around 3pm and realized all that crap was seized (been spraying PD Blaster on everything for a week)...the back lca bolt again and this time the tierod end had a seized cotterpin stuck in it.

I took a peak at the back strut bolts and was tempted to just do the back and go back to the driver side front after but look at this rust...is that even a bolt anymore???


I now have 1 corner lifted and no time during the week. Looks like I am going to just have to drop it off somewhere to get finished. Cant take a day or two off of work to "maybe" get 1 more corner done. Ugh


Last edited by ExpeditionBill; 11-15-2015 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:55 PM #7
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
Dang, you jumped straight to the mods; you eager beaver! Those wheels will look nice- welcome to the forum!
Yea I heard a rattle and noticed some leaking or ripped boots...just jumped right in to everything at once that I wanted vs ordering stuff I was going to replace a bit down the road. It was very expensive and painful to click order online and I wouldn't recommend doing this all at once.

Ran into lots of issues and rust and hopefully a local mechanic will even touch it since I started it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rich045 View Post
the suspension, diff drop and sway bar relocation i did a month ago. how you liking it? i dig it a lot, it just a bit tight, feels kinda like coilovers lol
Will let you know after its all finished...attempting to drop it off somewhere in the am. I'm guessing they will have it for a few days or a week.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:11 AM #8
Walkenvol Walkenvol is offline
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Wow - good luck dealing with the rust. If I ever move to the salt belt and decided to buy a used vehicle, I'm going on a road trip south or west.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:04 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExpeditionBill View Post
Yea I heard a rattle and noticed some leaking or ripped boots...just jumped right in to everything at once that I wanted vs ordering stuff I was going to replace a bit down the road. It was very expensive and painful to click order online and I wouldn't recommend doing this all at once.

Ran into lots of issues and rust and hopefully a local mechanic will even touch it since I started it.


Will let you know after its all finished...attempting to drop it off somewhere in the am. I'm guessing they will have it for a few days or a week.
it shouldnt take that long, the rear is super easy to do (about an hour), the front with the diff drop, sway bar spacer took me about 5 hours with a lift and all the tools in the world (and a lot of breaks). lol
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:05 AM #10
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off to a great start, Bill! It's a shame that you ran into all those issues
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:16 PM #11
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
Wow - good luck dealing with the rust. If I ever move to the salt belt and decided to buy a used vehicle, I'm going on a road trip south or west.
Yes that would be very wise. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by erklep View Post
off to a great start, Bill! It's a shame that you ran into all those issues
Thanks. Hopefully the rest of the install goes a bit smoother. Checking on it in the morning. Luckily I was able to drop it off at a shop a block from my house.
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:22 PM #12
ExpeditionBill ExpeditionBill is offline
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Ohh man. Its finished. Getting it back in the morning!!!!
Finishing up alignment first thing in the am.

Pics to come when ever I decide to come home after driving it.
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:09 PM #13
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Finished! well still have to do diff drop in the morning.

It rubbed a bit on the mud flaps in the front. I just took them off for now.
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Old 11-26-2015, 12:48 AM #14
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she looks great, Bill! those wheels are killer
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:41 PM #15
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So I have been slacking on some updates.

Here are my current alignment specs. (they will be checking and tightening everything once I hit 1000 miles). I guess I have OCD bc it bothers me both sides are not even. If I turn hard to the right (backing up), I was hitting my passenger side front mud flap. If I turned hard to the left (backing up), I am hitting that front plastic drain hole behind the front bumper. Would of liked to keep the mudflaps on. If I was to trim it, nothing would be left of it. So what exactly is off? So I can tell them to adjust the pass side a bit? I would rather trim that bumper plastic.



Here is that driver side plastic it rubs on...(the pass mud flap pic is in my last post)
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