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Old 05-13-2021, 02:19 PM #1
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***UPDATE***Rear Clunk - Costing a lot more than thought

**Please see post#45 on page 3**

Hi Guys,
I was getting a rear clunk in my 2004 4runner v8 for a about couple of years . After some research in this forum and you tube videos I greased the driveshaft. But the clunk didnt go away completely. I could still feel it and It came back in about a year so so.
So I went to my mechanic and this is what he messaged me-
The clunk comes from combined in the front diff and the transfercase. there is about 20-30 degree slack to thr front driveshaft rotation before it starts moving the other connected components.
And he said that if I want to get rid of the clunk it will need overhauling or replacing of both front diff and transfer case which will cost upwards of $1000 CAD.

So, here I am right now. I don't know what to do.Would it be worth to get it fixed? I am thinking of selling my 4runner. I don't know how much to ask for it? its got 240xxx kms on it.

What do you guys think?

TIA

Last edited by tuborg_15; 07-19-2021 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:27 PM #2
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it's always unfortunate when your rig needs repairs... I think if you really like your vehicle and had no intention of selling it, then pay the cost to fix. is the rest of the vehicle in good shape? any other issues or fixes required? have you been having issue after issue or is this the only thing that has come up. did you intend to sell if before this issue came up, can you afford to fix it. is it a DD or only for recreational use. those details are important

If it makes you feel any better I just paid $3200 CAD to replace my original xreas in my 2012 5th gen with 245,000kms. now some will say I'm a fool for not going with bilstein (which I was quoted 16 weeks wait time by a 4x4 shop here. didn't want to wait for parts and availability) or even a conventional setup. but I like the xreas and the new xreas feels like a brand new truck and feels great. it's worth it if I get another 245,000km out of the new suspension

I like my rig, didn't plan to sell it, don't plan on selling it, has no other mechanical issues, exterior and interior are mint, it's my DD, so I paid the $$$ to fix it.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:03 PM #3
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I've never heard anything like what your mechanic is saying. I would bet the clunk is still in the driveline and it needs to be greased/maintained more regularly or you need a new driveshaft in the rear. Lots have reported greasing never fully cured their clunk either. Toyota came out with a new rear driveshaft which seems to have solved the clunk for most who have installed it. I think it runs about $300 USD. They even issued a TSB but it was so late most 4th gens never got it.

I have the clunk on mine as well so I've been doing research lately. Gonna try greasing it and if that doesn't work I'll go for the new driveshaft.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:12 PM #4
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I would be extremely surprised if the issue was in the tcase or front diff. The front diff is a direct connection of shafts and gears, for it to have any slop gears would need to be chipped, and it wouldn't be driveable on the street. At least pull the drain plugs and see if there are chunks of metal that come out.

Tell him if those new parts don't fix it, he's paying for them lol.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:42 PM #5
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Run a test. Use two 14mm box end wrenches and remove your front driveshaft. then press your center diff lock. This will allow you to drive around in 2WD (aka rear wheel drive).

If the clunk is still there then you know it's not the front diff and tcase front output.

With the driveshaft out you can inspect and feel the u-joints for wear or excessive play. Bad front u-joint is usually accompanied by vibration when driving.

I find it hard to believe that the front differential and the front tcase output shaft bearing are both bad at the same time.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:57 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humble Leader View Post
it's always unfortunate when your rig needs repairs... I think if you really like your vehicle and had no intention of selling it, then pay the cost to fix. is the rest of the vehicle in good shape? any other issues or fixes required? have you been having issue after issue or is this the only thing that has come up. did you intend to sell if before this issue came up, can you afford to fix it. is it a DD or only for recreational use. those details are important

If it makes you feel any better I just paid $3200 CAD to replace my original xreas in my 2012 5th gen with 245,000kms. now some will say I'm a fool for not going with bilstein (which I was quoted 16 weeks wait time by a 4x4 shop here. didn't want to wait for parts and availability) or even a conventional setup. but I like the xreas and the new xreas feels like a brand new truck and feels great. it's worth it if I get another 245,000km out of the new suspension

I like my rig, didn't plan to sell it, don't plan on selling it, has no other mechanical issues, exterior and interior are mint, it's my DD, so I paid the $$$ to fix it.

Hi, This is my DD. I just wanted to sell because of this clunk issue till the time I did'nt know if its gonna be this big of an issue.
I don't have any other issues with it apart from the color. lol. Its Blue and seems to attract lot of rust. And my mechanic says the more accurate amount of repair can only be known when he pulls it all apart.

Cheers
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:01 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unner View Post
I've never heard anything like what your mechanic is saying. I would bet the clunk is still in the driveline and it needs to be greased/maintained more regularly or you need a new driveshaft in the rear. Lots have reported greasing never fully cured their clunk either. Toyota came out with a new rear driveshaft which seems to have solved the clunk for most who have installed it. I think it runs about $300 USD. They even issued a TSB but it was so late most 4th gens never got it.

I have the clunk on mine as well so I've been doing research lately. Gonna try greasing it and if that doesn't work I'll go for the new driveshaft.
HI
I thought it too, but he showed me the play in the front driveshaft. Its about 20-3- degrees he said. That's when I was taken aback. I did not expected it to be that costly repair.
I thought of replacing it with new driveshaft but what if it does not fix the problem, Is what I am thinking. And with the rear driveshaft will it correct the play/clunk in the front driveshaft? Or should I replace both?

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:06 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
I would be extremely surprised if the issue was in the tcase or front diff. The front diff is a direct connection of shafts and gears, for it to have any slop gears would need to be chipped, and it wouldn't be driveable on the street. At least pull the drain plugs and see if there are chunks of metal that come out.

Tell him if those new parts don't fix it, he's paying for them lol.
Hi, I changed all the front diff, rear diff and t case fluid last summer. Everything looked good. I didnt see any metal pieces except the magnet I saw some very few small pieces but I think it was nothing to be worried about.
Should I do it again?

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:10 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy88fj62 View Post
Run a test. Use two 14mm box end wrenches and remove your front driveshaft. then press your center diff lock. This will allow you to drive around in 2WD (aka rear wheel drive).

If the clunk is still there then you know it's not the front diff and tcase front output.

With the driveshaft out you can inspect and feel the u-joints for wear or excessive play. Bad front u-joint is usually accompanied by vibration when driving.

I find it hard to believe that the front differential and the front tcase output shaft bearing are both bad at the same time.
Hi
It seems to be a good test to find out. I will definitely try it.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will report back when I do this test..

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:17 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15 View Post
HI
I thought it too, but he showed me the play in the front driveshaft. Its about 20-3- degrees he said. That's when I was taken aback. I did not expected it to be that costly repair.
I thought of replacing it with new driveshaft but what if it does not fix the problem, Is what I am thinking. And with the rear driveshaft will it correct the play/clunk in the front driveshaft? Or should I replace both?

Thanks
There is very little doubt any full time 4wd V8 4 runner with 200,000 plus in it has some "Play" in the front diff. Mine does. I probably have 10 to 15. It is probably more in the front ring gear/pinion than the transfer case. You can have the backlash adjusted/shimmed and some of it will go away but there are several reason why you might still might have a little clunk when shifting from reverse to drive/etc. If you do anything, have the front diff adjusted/checked and work back to the transfer case if you don't think it is enough. It wouldn't do both at the same time. I'd make them prove that it was both.

You can buy a rear driveshaft rather cheap off from rock auto. Less $200. It will not fix the front diff.
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Old 05-13-2021, 06:29 PM #11
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I had an intermittent clunk problem for a really long time.

Rear driveshaft was toast. The extension tube was worn out and the joint had free play.

The extension tube being worn out probably isn't the easiest to detect. Mine was obvious due to the joint being f'd.

I think randy's idea of removing the front driveshaft is #1 thing to do before blowing up a grand. It'd be some bad luck to have that problem, clearly your truck would have been built on the friday of a long weekend...

Also, it's scary just to let anyone go play around with the diffs, as that Toyota diffs can be difficult to setup properly (apparently). Guys who know how to do it make it look easy. Not to imply this guy doesn't know 100% what he's doing, but just be wary.
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Old 05-13-2021, 07:18 PM #12
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I may be mistaken, I thought I read the transfer case alone is thousands $$. Add in the front diff and wow. $1,000 sounds like deal. But I would get a second opinion from the dealership.
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:28 PM #13
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I may be mistaken, I thought I read the transfer case alone is thousands $$. Add in the front diff and wow. $1,000 sounds like deal. But I would get a second opinion from the dealership.
Its upwards of $1000. So can be anywhere till he takes out the diff and check out the worn parts to replace and all. Gears, spline shaft chain etc...
So it can go anywhere.
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:50 PM #14
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I don't think a $1000 to $2000 repair is worth selling and replacing your DD. it's either going to cost you a lot more $ to upgrade to a newer vehicle and if you buy a similar valued vehicle to yours you risk repairs with that one too. my $0.02
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:53 PM #15
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I don't think a $1000 to $2000 repair is worth selling and replacing your DD. it's either going to cost you a lot more $ to upgrade to a newer vehicle and if you buy a similar valued vehicle to yours you risk repairs with that one too. my $0.02
Yes. But the thing is I don't know the total cost of repair till the mechanic opens the T-case or front diff and check out the worn parts.
It would be good if I know the cost of repair first, instead go for it and next thing I know, I am spending 4k-5k or more on it. That's my main concern here.
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