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Old 05-14-2021, 04:10 PM #16
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Originally Posted by tuborg_15 View Post
Yes. But the thing is I don't know the total cost of repair till the mechanic opens the T-case or front diff and check out the worn parts.
It would be good if I know the cost of repair first, instead go for it and next thing I know, I am spending 4k-5k or more on it. That's my main concern here.
I see I understand now. have you taken it to a toyota dealer to see if they have any better idea. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to throw an ad up and see what interest you get. if people are biting at a good price maybe it's worth the sale now and not risk a $4K to $5K repair. that cost of repair is probably approaching 50% to 80% of what you could sell it for as is (where I live anyway), and you wouldn't recover that repair cost via a sale

I'd list it for sale and start thinking about a new rig. for me $4K to $5K would be too much risk given the value of the vehicle. I'd probably draw the line at $3K but as you say you really don't know the extent of the repair until you start opening things up

what does your gut say to do
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Old 05-14-2021, 04:31 PM #17
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Originally Posted by Humble Leader View Post
I see I understand now. have you taken it to a toyota dealer to see if they have any better idea. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to throw an ad up and see what interest you get. if people are biting at a good price maybe it's worth the sale now and not risk a $4K to $5K repair. that cost of repair is probably approaching 50% to 80% of what you could sell it for as is (where I live anyway), and you wouldn't recover that repair cost via a sale

I'd list it for sale and start thinking about a new rig. for me $4K to $5K would be too much risk given the value of the vehicle. I'd probably draw the line at $3K but as you say you really don't know the extent of the repair until you start opening things up

what does your gut say to do
I have not yet been to a dealership. I will go there but after doing the test Randy suggested.
I don't even know what to ask if I put my rig up for sale before repairing this clunk...
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:15 PM #18
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Originally Posted by tuborg_15 View Post
I have not yet been to a dealership. I will go there but after doing the test Randy suggested.
I don't even know what to ask if I put my rig up for sale before repairing this clunk...
check auto trader and kijiji and compare. in my area they range from $6K to $12K. I think at this price range you won't recover any extra cost for the repair. If you were to say "I want $15K because I put $4K of work into the vehicle" I don't think it would matter. In fact I would say at that price point many would be willing to live with the clunk even if they did hear it
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:32 PM #19
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Your desperate other option is to run it in 2WD for the summer then sell it before winter hits and plan on getting another vehicle soon.
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:31 PM #20
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Sounds like a good time to put the fj tcase in it and give ECGS a call up ;) ;)!
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:37 PM #21
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Have you gotten a second opinion or tried pulling the driveshaft?

Talking about selling over this issue seems extreme if you really do want to keep the 4Runner. I still don't really believe what the first mechanic told you. Especially since you said the problem got better after you greased it and then a year later it has gotten worse, after the initial greasing of the driveshaft has worn off.
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Old 05-18-2021, 08:52 PM #22
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Hi Unner,
Was busy at work so I haven't got the time to remove the front driveshaft or get the second opinion.
The play is in the front propeller shaft. About 20-30 degrees. Do you think changing the rear or both propeller shafts would be beneficial?
Might remove the front driveshaft this weekend if I get time. I got the u joints replaced last year. That might have helped too. Sometimes I feel the clunk and a thud sometimes I don't.
And to be honest I was looking at my options if I sell my 4runner, but nothing interesting caught my eye, except other 4runners. Lol.

Cheers
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Old 05-19-2021, 08:52 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15 View Post
Hi Guys,
I was getting a rear clunk in my 2004 4runner v8 for a about couple of years . After some research in this forum and you tube videos I greased the driveshaft. But the clunk didnt go away completely. I could still feel it and It came back in about a year so so.
So I went to my mechanic and this is what he messaged me-
The clunk comes from combined in the front diff and the transfercase. there is about 20-30 degree slack to thr front driveshaft rotation before it starts moving the other connected components.
And he said that if I want to get rid of the clunk it will need overhauling or replacing of both front diff and transfer case which will cost upwards of $1000 CAD.

So, here I am right now. I don't know what to do.Would it be worth to get it fixed? I am thinking of selling my 4runner. I don't know how much to ask for it? its got 240xxx kms on it.

What do you guys think?

TIA
I agree with tuborg_15.

If you go underneath and check out all the driveshafts by trying to twist/wiggle them, and any move even a little, it could be the Ujoints that need replacing. They should be unmovable.
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Old 05-19-2021, 08:57 PM #24
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Update-
So I Got the front propeller shaft removed, put it in central diff lock and drove my 4runner. So smooth ride I forgot how it used to be.
No clunk after breaking, nothing, Nada. Drove as smooth as butter.
BUT-
When the 4runner was on lift, the mechanic hold the front where the front driveshaft goes in the transmission and wiggled it left and right we could see play in both front axle shafts. So he said that we can try and install both new front axles to see if it cures the clunk.
Better than spending several thousand $$.
What do you guys say?

TIA
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Old 05-19-2021, 10:16 PM #25
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Your mechanic is incompetent. There's no way that both your front diff and tcase are faulty. Now his diagnosis is "maybe front axles"? Find someone who knows how to work on 4wd's.

The fact that you greased the driveshafts and the noise changed is a clear sign. Check the front driveshaft U joints

Last edited by pcos55; 05-19-2021 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 05-19-2021, 11:49 PM #26
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That's good info that pulling the front driveshaft made the problem go away. Now you know it is on the front drivetrain somewhere.

I doubt new CV axles would do much and that would be a pricey job. They spin regardless of the driveshaft being attached, or it being in 2wd or 4wd. So if they were the problem I don't think pulling the driveshaft would have made it go away. I'd take a closer look at the front driveshaft itself, u joints, slip joint, etc.
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:57 AM #27
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I will also second that CV axles usually don't just go bad. Even cheap aftermarket ones will last as long as the rubber boots are intact.

The odds your tcase is trashed is low too. Unless you've been doing some really dumb stuff like jumping / hopping the truck? Or driving on different sized tires front and rear?

Do you still have the drive shaft off? How does the output shaft coming out the front of the tcase feel? Gear slop / radial play is ok. Up down slop would indicate a bad bearing.

Now that the front driveshaft is off, how do the ujoints feel? Is the one at the tcase side really sloppy and loose compared to the one down at the front diff?

Things it could be:
-Tcase Output bearing
-Driveshaft u-joints or slip yoke.
-front differential (pinion bearing or needle bearings where the Cv's come in)

There is no way you will need both a new diff clam shell assembly and a new tcase. That would indicate some severe abuse by you.
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Old 05-20-2021, 12:53 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15 View Post
Update-
So I Got the front propeller shaft removed, put it in central diff lock and drove my 4runner. So smooth ride I forgot how it used to be.
No clunk after breaking, nothing, Nada. Drove as smooth as butter.
BUT-
When the 4runner was on lift, the mechanic hold the front where the front driveshaft goes in the transmission and wiggled it left and right we could see play in both front axle shafts. So he said that we can try and install both new front axles to see if it cures the clunk.
Better than spending several thousand $$.
What do you guys say?

TIA
This post needs to get a lot more specific. Don't interpret this as me being a jerk, please, I realize not everyone knows all the terminology of everything.

There is no shaft into or out of the transmission that can be seen while the system is assembled. The front and rear propeller shafts mount onto the transfer case (t-case). The transmission's output shaft us buried inside the housing between the t-case and trans. The transmission is bolted to the engine, the t-case is bolted to the transmission. The t-case is in the rearmost position of the chain. rear shaft comes out the back of it, front shaft comes out the offset drop into the front diff.

If there's play in the front output shaft on the t-case, i.e. that it moves L/R, then yes, the bearing that holds that in place is toast. All other diagnostics can stop here. That mount should be completely stationary with only a tad bit of axial (in and out) and wobble (L/R & up/down) play. If it moves a lot then that's what's banging around. I think Randy's fielded this in prior posts.

The front half shafts (between the front diff and the wheels) tend to scream bloody murder if for some bizarre reason they have enough wear in the cages to allow freeplay/slop. There's oodles of contact surfaces in their design that having them wear out to the point of notable rotational slack (where one end is stationary and the other can be freely rotated), prior to them breaking or the bellows being blown out and vomiting grease everywhere... is virtually impossible. I'd ashamed to admit I drove my 3rd gen 40,000km with a half shaft bellows torn wide open and no real amount of grease likely in it. And it didn't make a peep of a noise or have any play in it. It seems entirely unlikely this is the issue.

Rotating the input shaft of the front diff should make the wheels spin. There's no ADD systems on the V8 (full time), so both wheels should spin the same direction when you rotate the input. You should feel there is a tad bit of play available in the diff's input, but just a little little bit. If it feels like the pinion clunks into the ring gear when it changes direction then yeah, that ain't right. The kind of play it should have is like the thickness of a piece of paper, in and out and rotationally.

If it were my rig, after looking at these things and it all seems okay, replace the front drive shaft. The shaft needs to change length slightly as everything moves together. If the extension tube has worn itself a ridge in the sleeve, it'll catch on the ridge, build pressure, then release, as it's compressed (hence, a light clunk under braking). I recall reading that the Toyota shafts have very tight tolerances, so I'd imagine it wouldn't take much to have this happen.

All speculation, though.

If you can get under the truck and take a video of it, that would help us make better wild speculations.
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Old 05-20-2021, 03:02 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros View Post
This post needs to get a lot more specific. Don't interpret this as me being a jerk, please, I realize not everyone knows all the terminology of everything.

There is no shaft into or out of the transmission that can be seen while the system is assembled. The front and rear propeller shafts mount onto the transfer case (t-case). The transmission's output shaft us buried inside the housing between the t-case and trans. The transmission is bolted to the engine, the t-case is bolted to the transmission. The t-case is in the rearmost position of the chain. rear shaft comes out the back of it, front shaft comes out the offset drop into the front diff.

If there's play in the front output shaft on the t-case, i.e. that it moves L/R, then yes, the bearing that holds that in place is toast. All other diagnostics can stop here. That mount should be completely stationary with only a tad bit of axial (in and out) and wobble (L/R & up/down) play. If it moves a lot then that's what's banging around. I think Randy's fielded this in prior posts.

The front half shafts (between the front diff and the wheels) tend to scream bloody murder if for some bizarre reason they have enough wear in the cages to allow freeplay/slop. There's oodles of contact surfaces in their design that having them wear out to the point of notable rotational slack (where one end is stationary and the other can be freely rotated), prior to them breaking or the bellows being blown out and vomiting grease everywhere... is virtually impossible. I'd ashamed to admit I drove my 3rd gen 40,000km with a half shaft bellows torn wide open and no real amount of grease likely in it. And it didn't make a peep of a noise or have any play in it. It seems entirely unlikely this is the issue.

Rotating the input shaft of the front diff should make the wheels spin. There's no ADD systems on the V8 (full time), so both wheels should spin the same direction when you rotate the input. You should feel there is a tad bit of play available in the diff's input, but just a little little bit. If it feels like the pinion clunks into the ring gear when it changes direction then yeah, that ain't right. The kind of play it should have is like the thickness of a piece of paper, in and out and rotationally.

If it were my rig, after looking at these things and it all seems okay, replace the front drive shaft. The shaft needs to change length slightly as everything moves together. If the extension tube has worn itself a ridge in the sleeve, it'll catch on the ridge, build pressure, then release, as it's compressed (hence, a light clunk under braking). I recall reading that the Toyota shafts have very tight tolerances, so I'd imagine it wouldn't take much to have this happen.

All speculation, though.

If you can get under the truck and take a video of it, that would help us make better wild speculations.
Yes, I should have made a video of it when my 4runner was on the lift and the mechanic was rotating the metal where the front of the front propeller shaft is connected. Would've been easy to understand. Ill try to make a video tonight when I get home. I have attached a pic( credit-backlitcoyote) showing which part I am referring to. Highlighted in red. There was a play of about 20-25 degrees. I will post a video as well.

IMG_0724 copy by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/161463459@N03/]
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Old 05-21-2021, 09:55 AM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy88fj62 View Post
I will also second that CV axles usually don't just go bad. Even cheap aftermarket ones will last as long as the rubber boots are intact.

The odds your tcase is trashed is low too. Unless you've been doing some really dumb stuff like jumping / hopping the truck? Or driving on different sized tires front and rear?

Do you still have the drive shaft off? How does the output shaft coming out the front of the tcase feel? Gear slop / radial play is ok. Up down slop would indicate a bad bearing.

Now that the front driveshaft is off, how do the ujoints feel? Is the one at the tcase side really sloppy and loose compared to the one down at the front diff?

Things it could be:
-Tcase Output bearing
-Driveshaft u-joints or slip yoke.
-front differential (pinion bearing or needle bearings where the Cv's come in)

There is no way you will need both a new diff clam shell assembly and a new tcase. That would indicate some severe abuse by you.
Hi,
I have never off roaded. Never abused my runner. And always ran same size tires.
The driveshaft is back on the 4runner now but it looked ok from both ends. If there was something wrong with the driveshaft there wouldn't be play in the front diff.

Thats what I am concerned with. I will post a video of the play in the front diff soon so that you all can see what's wrong with it. I.will try and post it today.

Thanks
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