06-07-2021, 11:08 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 12
Real Name: Matt
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Real Name: Matt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
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That doesn't look good....
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06-09-2021, 02:27 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
This post needs to get a lot more specific. Don't interpret this as me being a jerk, please, I realize not everyone knows all the terminology of everything.
There is no shaft into or out of the transmission that can be seen while the system is assembled. The front and rear propeller shafts mount onto the transfer case (t-case). The transmission's output shaft us buried inside the housing between the t-case and trans. The transmission is bolted to the engine, the t-case is bolted to the transmission. The t-case is in the rearmost position of the chain. rear shaft comes out the back of it, front shaft comes out the offset drop into the front diff.
If there's play in the front output shaft on the t-case, i.e. that it moves L/R, then yes, the bearing that holds that in place is toast. All other diagnostics can stop here. That mount should be completely stationary with only a tad bit of axial (in and out) and wobble (L/R & up/down) play. If it moves a lot then that's what's banging around. I think Randy's fielded this in prior posts.
The front half shafts (between the front diff and the wheels) tend to scream bloody murder if for some bizarre reason they have enough wear in the cages to allow freeplay/slop. There's oodles of contact surfaces in their design that having them wear out to the point of notable rotational slack (where one end is stationary and the other can be freely rotated), prior to them breaking or the bellows being blown out and vomiting grease everywhere... is virtually impossible. I'd ashamed to admit I drove my 3rd gen 40,000km with a half shaft bellows torn wide open and no real amount of grease likely in it. And it didn't make a peep of a noise or have any play in it. It seems entirely unlikely this is the issue.
Rotating the input shaft of the front diff should make the wheels spin. There's no ADD systems on the V8 (full time), so both wheels should spin the same direction when you rotate the input. You should feel there is a tad bit of play available in the diff's input, but just a little little bit. If it feels like the pinion clunks into the ring gear when it changes direction then yeah, that ain't right. The kind of play it should have is like the thickness of a piece of paper, in and out and rotationally.
If it were my rig, after looking at these things and it all seems okay, replace the front drive shaft. The shaft needs to change length slightly as everything moves together. If the extension tube has worn itself a ridge in the sleeve, it'll catch on the ridge, build pressure, then release, as it's compressed (hence, a light clunk under braking). I recall reading that the Toyota shafts have very tight tolerances, so I'd imagine it wouldn't take much to have this happen.
All speculation, though.
If you can get under the truck and take a video of it, that would help us make better wild speculations.
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Hi
Here's a video I made of the front drivehshaft-
2004 4runner clunk in propeller shaft - YouTube
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06-09-2021, 03:49 PM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
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Whaaaooo... yeah, that's alotta wiggle there.
What's the situation with the front diff's fluid? Have you drained it yet to see if it's got a fancy metal-coat sheen?
If it vomits out chunks of spider gear, you've found the problem.
Because it appears that the half-shafts (diff to the wheels) are remaining stationary when the input shaft is rotated back and forth on its free-play; and if that's true, I'd estimate the problem is localized inside the front diff. Spider gears are toast, or the ring gear and pinion aren't engaging correctly anymore, can be caused by the crush sleeve getting... well... crushed. I'm sure there's other things that can cause that sort of free play, hopefully someone more knowledgeable can jump in as well.
The fluid condition in the transfer case... Ya know, I just have a hard time thinking something could go wrong so badly to make that sort of dramatic free play in the transfer case and it would still run smoothly (in 2WD with the front driveshaft removed). With the full time 4WD, it's all gotta spin, so I would have assumed if something got ground up, it'd let ya know with a lot of racket when you drive it.
Thanks for posting a video. I think the condition of the diff fluid is the only thing that could confirm definitely if the front diff is definitely blown up without doing any more exploratory surgery.
I'm certain there's some Toyota 4x4 exclusive shops around Calgary that would know in a moment what the issue is. It really pays to have a guy who knows specifically about this particular vehicle.
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2005 V8 Limited
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IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
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06-09-2021, 04:04 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
Yes. But the thing is I don't know the total cost of repair till the mechanic opens the T-case or front diff and check out the worn parts.
It would be good if I know the cost of repair first, instead go for it and next thing I know, I am spending 4k-5k or more on it. That's my main concern here.
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The only other way is getting other quotes from different mechanics. That way you'll know if this one is guessing or is onto something.
But, sometimes that's the only way -- open her up and see. Then you can decline the repair if it's too much, but you'll pay for labor to diagnose.
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06-09-2021, 04:23 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Ontario
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From what I see in the video, it's the backlash on the front diff. Somehow, thru either lack of maintenance or excessive abuse (either by you or the PO owner), the backlash has opened up the spacing between the ring and pinion gear. I'd either get one used out of a local upull or buy a replacement from ECGS.
East Coast Gear Supply
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06-09-2021, 06:55 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
From what I see in the video, it's the backlash on the front diff. Somehow, thru either lack of maintenance or excessive abuse (either by you or the PO owner), the backlash has opened up the spacing between the ring and pinion gear. I'd either get one used out of a local upull or buy a replacement from ECGS.
East Coast Gear Supply
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car-part.com lists 5x front diffs in Calgary, and many more around Alberta
Thanks
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2005 V8 Limited
Bilstein 6112/5160, ADDCO bars. 18x9 Beast with 285/60R18 BFGs
IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
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06-11-2021, 12:30 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
car-part.com lists 5x front diffs in Calgary, and many more around Alberta
Thanks
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Hi,
I was searching car-part.com for the front diff but couldn't see anything. What should I put.in the search? Diff carrier or ?
TIA
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06-11-2021, 02:17 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
Hi,
I was searching car-part.com for the front diff but couldn't see anything. What should I put.in the search? Diff carrier or ?
TIA
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I used "Carrier (see also Differential)" to get a list of results.
For whatever reason, "Differential" doesn't find anything. I guess in the parts system it may think of the diff as the ring and spiders, and its frame, etc. But the housing assembly is the carrier?
Speculation anyway.
Whenever I've shopped wreckers for parts, calling all of them saves me a tonne of money. One place quoted me $1300 for a new trans. Paid $600 somewhere else. Throttle body: $450 at one place... showed up and paid $100 for it somewhere else.
Prices can vary wildly and some outfits think they have gold.
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2005 V8 Limited
Bilstein 6112/5160, ADDCO bars. 18x9 Beast with 285/60R18 BFGs
IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
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06-11-2021, 03:23 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 1,615
Real Name: Ron
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After watching the video I went out and checked my front drive shaft "slop" and it's not too far off what his showed. I have an '03 V8 AWD, not too worried about the "slop" if it's not good it will show up in future, but no problems now that I can tell.
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06-11-2021, 06:09 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
After watching the video I went out and checked my front drive shaft "slop" and it's not too far off what his showed. I have an '03 V8 AWD, not too worried about the "slop" if it's not good it will show up in future, but no problems now that I can tell.
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So you don't get any clunk when you step on gas after releasing breaks? And you have almost similar slop? That's strange. I hope it's only small problem. Don't want to spend a lot of $$$ right now..
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06-11-2021, 06:22 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Real Name: Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
So you don't get any clunk when you step on gas after releasing breaks? And you have almost similar slop? That's strange. I hope it's only small problem. Don't want to spend a lot of $$$ right now..
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Occasionally, but I always thought it to be rear drive shaft splines needing some lube.
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06-12-2021, 06:31 PM
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#43
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 27
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Location: Edmonton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuborg_15
So you don't get any clunk when you step on gas after releasing breaks? And you have almost similar slop? That's strange. I hope it's only small problem. Don't want to spend a lot of $$$ right now..
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I have the same clunk and the same amount of play. 2004 V8 370k kms.
I thought that much play was normal , hope it's just a small problem. Keep us updated I'm curious now too.
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06-16-2021, 08:25 PM
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#44
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Age: 62
Posts: 145
Real Name: Steven
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Age: 62
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Real Name: Steven
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My '04 V8 has play in the front driveshaft too. Not as much but it's there
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07-19-2021, 03:17 PM
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#45
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
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What a difference
Sorry for the late post. With two little kids and Job I didn't get time till last week to go to the dealership. I had to bear that clunk for this whole time.
So, I went to the dealer, told them my concern and left my 4Runner with them for the day to diagnose.
They called me and told me that my U-Joints needed replacement and also the rear propeller shaft was installed backwards??? I gave a go ahead for the repairs thinking the problem lies with the front driveshaft and differential.But by now I was so sick and tired of hearing that clunk, I was ready to try anything that'll fix it.
The dealership called me again around 3pm saying that it is taking more time than they initially thought and they will deliver the vehicle the next day. The service tech told me that the u-joint flanges had been severely cleaned out. So they had to peen flanges to grip new u-joints better. But they will not charge me for the extra work. Only what they quoted me originally.
So the next day I went to take my vehicle still dreading that clunk.
I sat in my vehicle started it..put it in drive...and slowly started driving..And man o man , I don't remember it driving so smooth. NO CLUNK...I did a stop and go, gear shifts, everything.. No Clunk...and its driving like new now.
Its been two days today and its an awesome feeling to drive it without any clunk. But still at the back of my mind I expect a clunk at every stop. Hopefully It will go away soon... So happy now.
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