Originally Posted by Flesh Eater

Just remember, none of us just magically knew how to do this stuff. I learned via forums and YouTube and have honed my skills since my first off road build almost 12 years ago. I did not grow up turning wrenches.

Go to Tekton’s website and get their 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive metric sets and you can fix anything on this Toyota with those and a big hammer.

Originally Posted by GeoFlory

As you point out, the V6 can get up and go. The V8 is rated for 260 hp and 306 lb-ft torque compared to the V6's 236 hp and 266 lb-ft torque, so that is 10% more hp and 15% more torque. It is a relatively small V8 at 4.7 L (285 in3), and not intended as a powerhouse, but it is a bit peppier than the V6 (I drove the '98 and '09 V6s for 14 years). I originally shied away from the V8 because I was afraid the V8 and full-time 4WD would wreak havoc on gas mileage; however, after driving the V8 home for 340 miles on the expressway, I filled it up and got 20.5 mpg which is about the same as the V6 ever got. What I have found so far is that I really like the full-time 4WD on the V8; I find I can take off from a light with rapid acceleration and not break the tires loose in the rain; with the V6's multi-mode 4WD, I often found my back tires spinning in the rain or on gravel and dirt before I manually engaged 4WD. To me, the big thing is the Class IV, weight-distributing trailer hitch (standard with V8) because I plan on towing a 6000 to 7000 lb trailer.

I also have the original XREAS suspension which I wanted to try. So far, it seems firmer and steadier than the regular suspension going over railroad tracks. I am a believer in what I have heard called the military philosophy: "If you can't test it, it's broken.", so I am wondering how to really test it. I hear a lot of people remove the XREAS, but I intend to maintain it always.

I finished checking out my brakes. The front indeed has the 338 mm rotors with the 13WH calipers; the rotors look rather impressive at 13.3 inches OD, and 1 1/8 inches thick. I measured the thickness because it just struck me that they seemed thicker than others; the rear rotors are 12.3 inches OD and 3/4 inch thick.

Originally Posted by meltdowner

Grease the zerks!!!!!!!! Change oil and tranny fluid. A mechanic will probably do it all cheap.

Post photos of the frame.

Originally Posted by CadRunner

I'm Currently in the process of trading in my 2017 Tacoma OR (191,000KM) for a 2004 V8 Sport Edition (143,000 KM). Its good to hear that you are liking the ride a lot more!!
I would probably take It to a shop that deals with restoration's or a reputable body shop. They may be able to fix the soft spots on the frame with out too much issue before it gets worse? If they can fix it with out too much issue and the rest of the vehicle is in good shape then it may be worth the repair?

Originally Posted by CadRunner

I'm Currently in the process of trading in my 2017 Tacoma OR (191,000KM) for a 2004 V8 Sport Edition (143,000 KM). Its good to hear that you are liking the ride a lot more!!
I would probably take It to a shop that deals with restoration's or a reputable body shop. They may be able to fix the soft spots on the frame with out too much issue before it gets worse? If they can fix it with out too much issue and the rest of the vehicle is in good shape then it may be worth the repair?

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

If you find on a visual inspection that the frame seems to have 15% to 20% bad rust issues/spots it more than likely has twice to 3 times that much rust because many times the rust starts or is on the insides of the frame rails where you can't see it until it rust through to the outside of the frame!

Tap on all the good areas of the frame, every square inch with a hammer, if it doesn't sound solid then that spot has bad rust on the inside of the frame which will soon come through the frame.

Originally Posted by Toystory2

It’s hard to say the percentage as it is pretty spotty on the frame. I knocked around with my hand and most of it felt or sounded solid. It’s flaking quite a bit so I’m wondering if this hasn’t been treated with something before I bought it. Either way, not what I wanted to see after just buying it : (

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

The 15% to 20% I referenced was for obvious severe rust spots where the metal is actually gone from rust, not surface rust, if all one finds is surface rust, it's most likely the same on the inside BUT surface rust is most always not an issue on any frame or any structural metal.

Originally Posted by Toystory2

Im gonna try to get it in somewhere next week and get a good evaluation on it. It appears to me mostly surface rust with some flaking. There’s a couple of smaller spots on the frame that are questionable. Is there anything I can do immediately (as in tomorrow) to help before I get it into a shop?