These really need replaced? Let's see some pics.

You can do shocks/struts yourself. The trans lines not sure but can't be that hard. Rusted bolts are probably the only hard part. You want to do whatever you can to avoid snapping bolts.

Hit the bolts with penetrating lubricant multiple days in a row. Then get yourself a torch. I just went through a snapped skid bolt last weekend. PITA but got it done and retapped. Get anti-seize on the new bolts.

Yup, decide on the first project to tackle. Search the forums and youtube. Don't be afraid to ask for tips before starting something. Pictures of the rust severity on the particular project can be helpful to give the best advice. Sometimes the right tool or right strategy makes all the difference. No stupid questions possible. My favorite way to search is to put this into a google search box (ex. replace transmission lines):

site:4th Gen T4Rs - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum transmission lines

If you’re willing to sweat, get dirty, and work hard all those are easy to do. If you can’t weld you’ll have to pay for the frame repair.

All new factory control arms for mine cost $916 from NAPA. They were all complete with ball joints and bushings.

There’s only two bolts that need removed to get the UCA bolts out. Pull the battery to make the driver’s side easier.

Gas tank straps will suck and you might as well do a fuel pump if you get that far. At least I would.

Trans lines are easy, just have to work the hard lines through tight spots sometimes.

Well if you need help and feel like driving to Raleigh, I can help you out.

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I appreciate that offer my friend.

I have an impact driver, did you just use some type of drill bit?

I think I can tackle just about everything except the control arms and maybe the struts, since I've never done them.

They did mention that 4 camber bolts would have to be replaced on the LCA, maybe that's what it's so expensive? I'll check into a fuel pump, because that is a good point. Maybe fuel filter too?

I caved on the trans lines and am letting them fix it. I hate the idea of a $5,000 trans replacement.

those are some high prices for what are pretty basic repairs, there is no way upper & lower A-arms costs $3800 to replace... find a new shop!

the frame repair is hard to say without seeing it but a smaller hole can be patched without much time/effort, not sure why that would cost $1000. again find a new shop or at least check with a few others for price comparison, usually the smaller shops will have better prices than the bigger places or dealerships.

if you are mechanically inclined everything besides the frame reapir can be done with basic tools & are not difficult to do. these 4th gen 4runners are pretty easy to work on for front/rear suspension, the front/rear shocks (they are not struts) are very easy to do & once the front shock/spring is out as a unit the A-arms are very easy to get to & replace.

i suggest downloading the factory repair manual available on here or other places & to watch some youtube videos on how to do the shocks & arms etc. if you have a few hours to do the work most of this can be done & save yourself a LOT of money or find a different shop to do the work, should be easily half those prices or less.

I'll post some pics of the CAs when I get it back. Not sure how bad they are but they said it's what causing the squeak/clunk going over bumps.

I have decided to let them do the trans cooler lines because I don't wanna risk killing the transmission.

I believe with searching (like you mentioned) I can handle most everything else.

Here's a pic of the worst spot of rust:

Attached Images

 

Although the shop does good work and has a great reputation, I still think that is pretty high. The main things I am not sure of doing is the rust "fix" or the control arms. Here's a look at the bad spot of rust, if you have any opinions.

Attached Images

 

yeah that rust hole will need patched by cutting out the area until its solid metal then welding in a new piece.. but i still dont see $1000 worth or time/materials there. a few hours at $100/hr shop rate & 20 bucks worth of metal is all that should be required based on that pic... but ya never know how far they have to cut out until solid metal. again, check with some other shops, or shops more geared towards frame/suspension repair or off roading/trucks.

the A arms might need new bushings &/or ball joints if they are whats causing the squeaks/clunk but new bushings are very cheap & not difficult to replace by a shop with a press. most just buy new loaded arms from reputable aftermarket companies like moog, then its just unbolt & replace, cant see how either option would cost anywhere near $3800, even half that seems outrageous for the work thats required for that job. should be able to just call a few other shops & ask for a quote to replace the bushings & bj's or the entire arm & ask if you can bring in your own parts, so just ask for the labor rate, then buy loaded arms from napa or rock auto etc or just the bushings & bj's.

just an FYI, i have an 08 sport with 151k miles & the A-arms, baljoints/bushings are fine, just had it aligned after i replaced front & rear shocks with KYBs, cam bolts werent stuck & everything else has another 50-100k miles on it easily. i did have a clunk over bigger bumps or pot holes etc & it was the front sway bar bushings causing it... & worn out shocks. this is on a midwestern 4runner that sees lots of winter road salt etc.

best of luck getting the work done for better more fair prices. & the shops good reputation or not, those are rip off prices based on the labor time & cost of parts. if you have some time, youtube has all kinds of vids showing this work, the shocks & arms are really not difficult & no special tools are needed aside from a torque wrench for final tightening & maybe a bigger metric socket than the average guy might have.

With these prices, I'm going to side with they're probably gouging you and most of the services probably not needed. For example, at 210-230k miles, all of my ball joints, bushings, and all suspension was in worn but still decent condition and passed inspection without issue. I only started replacing stuff when my cam bolts seized and that snowballed into suspension stuff for offroading. But for regular road use, everything was fine.

I've got a writeup on rebuilding the LCAs if you take that route, but it is a decent amount of work. The writeup covers everything from removal of arms by sawzall and all parts/tools needed, so applicable to the straight LCA replacement option too

Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I'm working on writeup for suspension and UCA install, not sure ETA on that, but I already have lots of pictures and info from my replacement

These are price guestimates off the top of my head for just part costs if you want to purchase yourself. Don't hold me to these, just throwing them out to give you an idea of part costs:

LCAs
OEM (McGeorge Online usually best prices, but shop around): $700-900
SuperPro Poly bushing LCA: $670
1A Auto (Cheapies to get by): $200
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Alignment HW
OEM: $150
MOOG: $50 maybe (These are trash though, get OEM)
Time: Included with LCA time

UCAs:
OEM: Not sure, but I'll look
JBA Factory Replacement or High Caster (For lifted): $450ish
SPC Adjustable (helpful for custom alignment after lift and larger tires): $630
Apache Offroad (For lifted): $550
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $50-100
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Suspension:
KYB (Stock Replacement): $300ish I think
Dobinsons (Lift or I believe there are some stock replacement): $800-1000
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $100-200
Time: 2-3 days. For me I needed to replace flex brake lines for longer rear shocks which snowballed into replacing hard lines all the way back so it took 4 days

Alignement
Firestone Lifetime: $200



This one I would recommend taking to a shop if you're still learning car mechanics. I'd even check with the dealer on their pricing, since $1000 is a lot of cash, even a stealership might be cheaper. Also look for an independent Toyota/Lexus mechanic and get their opinion

This job isn't too terrible, don't even need to drop the tank. I disagree with the other commenter, don't do the fuel pump. You are not halfway to its replacement with just the straps. Heavily apply penetrating fluid (I like 50/50 acetone/ATF) to all the bolts and use an impact. I didn't break any and mine were crusty AF

Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

Part Cost: $50-75
Time: 1-2 days


These aren't really critical for your vehicle to run/be safe, definitely not needed. Stock skids do provide minimal protection against road debris and such, so they are helpful in some regards. Off road skid plates of course provide more protection

The cheapest one I can think of its the LFD Offroad skid for $180 + $50 shipping (or pickup in NC)

Time to to straight replace: 1hr
If broken bolts: 1-2 days

On the broken bolts note, I would not bother with screw extractors or drill and retap. This is what I did and wasted a lot of time. The retapped holes eventually loosened up some pieces of broken bolt and the new hole isn't perfectly in the center, so they don't hole. Either weld a washer then a nut onto the bolt stump or drill out completely and rivnut


This one I would also look into taking to a professional to get it taken care of right. As mentioned, they'll cut all the rusty section out, then weld in good metal.

My wife has a 2007 4 runner from Colorado. I completely replaced the suspension and everything was rusted to the max. I PB Blasted all the nuts for 2 weeks just about every day for two weeks and it was still a *****.

I ended up using a saws all to just cut the top nut off of all 4 shocks - which did not take long at all. I fought with them for days before hand.

Look for the video on how to use a jack vs. a spring compressor. I had to redo the front shock as aI found a washer on the floor. The second time around I took everything apart and ack together again unless than 20 minutes

Loosen the front cam bolts on the LCA by the bolt head, not the “nut.” I had to cut my rear bolts off as well as the LCA arm itself.

Man, trans lines are usually one bolt on the trans and just disconnect up front. Super easy. Like I said, working them up front is tricky.

You can change these straps without dropping the tank? Sweet.

I’ve done a lot of gas tanks. Only other one that I could do without dropping the tank was maybe my 87’ XJ. Both of my full size Chevy’s the whole tank had to come down and it was still a pain.

I about to start PB blasting every nut on there. Prepared to buy a sawsall as well. Is it just a matter to sawing off the nut and tapping the bolt out?


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