07-29-2021, 10:11 AM
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#1
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Fumoto drain valve for the transmission pan
Does anyone have one of these cool valves for their transmission oil pan? I have this one for the engine oil pan and love it. I'm thinking it's the same thread M12 x 1.25 but wanted to be sure before ordering.
Thanks.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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07-29-2021, 12:38 PM
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#2
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I'm no expert by any means but I think I would rather keep the plug vs the valve on the transmission. While I do like my fumoto valve for engine oil changes the transmission fluid just isn't changed often enough to warrant it.
With that said there was a site up that had all the service documents. It wasn't the download site with the broken link but basically an index and you can navigate to whatever your looking for.
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07-29-2021, 12:46 PM
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#3
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Thanks for the input. I measured the drain bolt and it's M10 x 1.5 and Fumoto doesn't have this size. Bummer but that answers that!
I drain/fill my tranny on every oil change and having the RCI skid plate can make things a little messy at times. Vehicle is at 375xxx miles and going strong w/o any tranny issues. I do tow trailers regularly so it's a piece of mind to have partially fresh ATF in the tranny.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
Last edited by alia176; 07-29-2021 at 12:50 PM.
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07-29-2021, 12:50 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
Thanks for the input. I measured the drain bolt and it's M10 x 1.5.
I do drain/fill my tranny on every oil change and having the RCI skid plate can make things a little messy at times.
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Why do you drain and fill the transmission with every oil change? Are you putting it in trans temp check mode every time?
With the transmission not being so close to combustion like engine oil, it can go quite a bit longer between changes.
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07-29-2021, 12:51 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
Why do you drain and fill the transmission with every oil change? Are you putting it in trans temp check mode every time?
With the transmission not being so close to combustion like engine oil, it can go quite a bit longer between changes.
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Trans check mode? Mine is an '03 so I have an open tranny with a dipstick, if that helps.
See above for the second part of your question.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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07-29-2021, 12:58 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
Trans check mode? Mine is an '03 so I have an open tranny with a dipstick, if that helps.
See above for the second part of your question.
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Trans temp check mode is for the transmissions without dipstick, so wouldn't apply to you then. After draining and slightly overfilling the transmission, it gets the transmission to a specific temperature when you pull and overflow plug and drain off the extra. Essentially you have to do this shift pattern in a specific manner and timing to get it to go into the mode, almost like a video game cheat code lol
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07-29-2021, 01:06 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
Thanks for the input. I measured the drain bolt and it's M10 x 1.5 and Fumoto doesn't have this size. Bummer but that answers that!
I drain/fill my tranny on every oil change and having the RCI skid plate can make things a little messy at times. Vehicle is at 375xxx miles and going strong w/o any tranny issues. I do tow trailers regularly so it's a piece of mind to have partially fresh ATF in the tranny.
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You ever replace all of the fluid using the lines going to the radiator? You could do that and change most of the 12 quarts or whatever it holds instead of doing it every oil change. I’ll try to find the write up.
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07-29-2021, 01:54 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
You ever replace all of the fluid using the lines going to the radiator? You could do that and change most of the 12 quarts or whatever it holds instead of doing it every oil change. I’ll try to find the write up.
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ATF Exchange (using the cooling line) - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
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07-30-2021, 09:31 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
You ever replace all of the fluid using the lines going to the radiator? You could do that and change most of the 12 quarts or whatever it holds instead of doing it every oil change. I’ll try to find the write up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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No I don't and that's on purpose. I'd rather drain/refill vs completely swapping the ATF in order to NOT shock the transmission. If I had owned this rig since brand new, I'd have done complete empty/refill. I do this on all of my vehicles, including the DDs so that the ATF stay's clean-ish while still letting some of the brake/clutch band material float around in there.
I realize this is a highly debated topic - complete flush or drain/refill but this has been working out well for me for decades so I just continue on. Let's see this rig has 370k, which is the highest mileage on my driveway. Others all have 250k+ on them and no issues, knock on wood.
On a side note, my 1990 Benz has the ability to drain the torque converter, as well as the transmission pan so that one gets a complete drain/refill every few years. I wish all vehicles had this feature.
I always measure what comes out and put back in the same exact amount, which tends to be nearly one gallon of ATF out of all of my vehicles.
What folks don't realize is that when we're doing a fair amount of 4low grunt work, this REALLY heats up that transmission fluid. IMHO, you can't really hurt the tranny by doing too much drain/refills. Transmissions LOVE fresh ATF that is crimson pink with a sweet odor.
Those of us who are running larger than stock tires and DIDN'T regear, you should be doing frequent drain/refills as well. Due to the lack of proper gearing, you're pressing harder on that gas pedal in order to get those giant meats rolling. This translates to more effort on your transmissions.
Another side note, if you have a scanguage, look up the PID code and program that into your unit and watch that tranny temps. You'd be amazed at how quickly that ATF temp goes up and then goes back down. I tow a LOT so it's good for me to know that temp, although I don't live by it or anything. Just curious on how hot the tranny gets while towing up a steep trail in 4low vs 4hi. Even though the V8 has no issues towing my 2500# offroad camper, doing it 4low is so much better for the ATF because the fluid moves through the ATF cooler much faster. I have dinky tires so that helps out a lot in this regard.
Thank you for the link BTW
@ y=mx+b
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
Last edited by alia176; 07-30-2021 at 09:37 AM.
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07-30-2021, 10:49 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
Trans temp check mode is for the transmissions without dipstick, so wouldn't apply to you then. After draining and slightly overfilling the transmission, it gets the transmission to a specific temperature when you pull and overflow plug and drain off the extra. Essentially you have to do this shift pattern in a specific manner and timing to get it to go into the mode, almost like a video game cheat code lol
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I am very surprised that you're still doing this manually. It's incredibly easy and cheap to monitor the exact temperature directly using any Windows/Android/Apple device with WiFi capability and a free app with this super cheap obd reader off Amazon. Works great, and doesn't trigger a zero point calibration on our 4th gens like some scan tools do.
Amazon.com: Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iOS and Android, Car OBD II Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader Scan Tool Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner App: Automotive
This is the exact one I have. I had to try a few apps to find one that worked right with the truck and unlocked all the sensors. on Android, the Car Scanner app using the setting Toyota - "OBD-II / EOBD K-Line/KWP + extra sensors".
I keep the dongle in my glove box, and have thrown it on there to have the wife connect and check my trans temp after long drives and hauls up inclines. I've never seen it rise above 175F, even after hauling ass up a mountain at 55 for 10 minutes in 95 degree weather.
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07-30-2021, 11:48 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacRendar
I am very surprised that you're still doing this manually. It's incredibly easy and cheap to monitor the exact temperature directly using any Windows/Android/Apple device with WiFi capability and a free app with this super cheap obd reader off Amazon. Works great, and doesn't trigger a zero point calibration on our 4th gens like some scan tools do.
Amazon.com: Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iOS and Android, Car OBD II Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader Scan Tool Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner App: Automotive
This is the exact one I have. I had to try a few apps to find one that worked right with the truck and unlocked all the sensors. on Android, the Car Scanner app using the setting Toyota - "OBD-II / EOBD K-Line/KWP + extra sensors".
I keep the dongle in my glove box, and have thrown it on there to have the wife connect and check my trans temp after long drives and hauls up inclines. I've never seen it rise above 175F, even after hauling ass up a mountain at 55 for 10 minutes in 95 degree weather.
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Yep I've got a bluetooth one to use with torque pro and also an ultragauge, but I guess I like doing it the archaic way lol. I mostly brought it up because I see a lot of people just drain out x amount and put x amount back in without doing the level check, which could be over or underfilled if the original level wasn't correct
Do you have the v8 with the trans cooler? going up big hills, my v6 without cooler would be in the 195-205° range in 90ish° ambient so I added a cooler
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07-30-2021, 11:55 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
No I don't and that's on purpose. I'd rather drain/refill vs completely swapping the ATF in order to NOT shock the transmission. If I had owned this rig since brand new, I'd have done complete empty/refill. I do this on all of my vehicles, including the DDs so that the ATF stay's clean-ish while still letting some of the brake/clutch band material float around in there.
I realize this is a highly debated topic - complete flush or drain/refill but this has been working out well for me for decades so I just continue on. Let's see this rig has 370k, which is the highest mileage on my driveway. Others all have 250k+ on them and no issues, knock on wood.
On a side note, my 1990 Benz has the ability to drain the torque converter, as well as the transmission pan so that one gets a complete drain/refill every few years. I wish all vehicles had this feature.
I always measure what comes out and put back in the same exact amount, which tends to be nearly one gallon of ATF out of all of my vehicles.
What folks don't realize is that when we're doing a fair amount of 4low grunt work, this REALLY heats up that transmission fluid. IMHO, you can't really hurt the tranny by doing too much drain/refills. Transmissions LOVE fresh ATF that is crimson pink with a sweet odor.
Those of us who are running larger than stock tires and DIDN'T regear, you should be doing frequent drain/refills as well. Due to the lack of proper gearing, you're pressing harder on that gas pedal in order to get those giant meats rolling. This translates to more effort on your transmissions.
Another side note, if you have a scanguage, look up the PID code and program that into your unit and watch that tranny temps. You'd be amazed at how quickly that ATF temp goes up and then goes back down. I tow a LOT so it's good for me to know that temp, although I don't live by it or anything. Just curious on how hot the tranny gets while towing up a steep trail in 4low vs 4hi. Even though the V8 has no issues towing my 2500# offroad camper, doing it 4low is so much better for the ATF because the fluid moves through the ATF cooler much faster. I have dinky tires so that helps out a lot in this regard.
Thank you for the link BTW
@ y=mx+b
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Interesting.
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07-30-2021, 01:56 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
No I don't and that's on purpose. I'd rather drain/refill vs completely swapping the ATF in order to NOT shock the transmission. If I had owned this rig since brand new, I'd have done complete empty/refill. I do this on all of my vehicles, including the DDs so that the ATF stay's clean-ish while still letting some of the brake/clutch band material float around in there.
I realize this is a highly debated topic - complete flush or drain/refill but this has been working out well for me for decades so I just continue on. Let's see this rig has 370k, which is the highest mileage on my driveway. Others all have 250k+ on them and no issues, knock on wood.
On a side note, my 1990 Benz has the ability to drain the torque converter, as well as the transmission pan so that one gets a complete drain/refill every few years. I wish all vehicles had this feature.
I always measure what comes out and put back in the same exact amount, which tends to be nearly one gallon of ATF out of all of my vehicles.
What folks don't realize is that when we're doing a fair amount of 4low grunt work, this REALLY heats up that transmission fluid. IMHO, you can't really hurt the tranny by doing too much drain/refills. Transmissions LOVE fresh ATF that is crimson pink with a sweet odor.
Those of us who are running larger than stock tires and DIDN'T regear, you should be doing frequent drain/refills as well. Due to the lack of proper gearing, you're pressing harder on that gas pedal in order to get those giant meats rolling. This translates to more effort on your transmissions.
Another side note, if you have a scanguage, look up the PID code and program that into your unit and watch that tranny temps. You'd be amazed at how quickly that ATF temp goes up and then goes back down. I tow a LOT so it's good for me to know that temp, although I don't live by it or anything. Just curious on how hot the tranny gets while towing up a steep trail in 4low vs 4hi. Even though the V8 has no issues towing my 2500# offroad camper, doing it 4low is so much better for the ATF because the fluid moves through the ATF cooler much faster. I have dinky tires so that helps out a lot in this regard.
Thank you for the link BTW
@ y=mx+b
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I always thought that 4Lo puts less stress on the transmission and temps. I cant imagine the stress on the transmission/engine being in 4hi where 4Lo is required.
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07-31-2021, 09:07 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatcheeks
I always thought that 4Lo puts less stress on the transmission and temps. I cant imagine the stress on the transmission/engine being in 4hi where 4Lo is required.
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That is correct. Just because our engines have the torque to pull us uphill in 4hi, doesn't mean that it's good for the transmission. Your torque converter is slipping while the ATF temps are spiking during this process.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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07-31-2021, 09:15 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
Yep I've got a bluetooth one to use with torque pro and also an ultragauge, but I guess I like doing it the archaic way lol. I mostly brought it up because I see a lot of people just drain out x amount and put x amount back in without doing the level check, which could be over or underfilled if the original level wasn't correct
Do you have the v8 with the trans cooler? going up big hills, my v6 without cooler would be in the 195-205° range in 90ish° ambient so I added a cooler
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Yes, mine came with the trans cooler and its a good thing because I tow just about every week. My temps spike on steeper climbs but then comes back down so I don't have a huge concern
From here: auto transmission
Normal operating temperature for an automatic transmission is about the
same as the engine temperature, i.e., about 195°F. The temperature inside the torque converter, while pulling a
big load from a standing start, could easily rise above 350°F. Fluid breakdown often results in harsh shifting and
slip-bump concerns. broken down fluid often exhibits a different coefficient of friction, and foams up easily
causing aeration.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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