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Old 08-30-2021, 07:53 PM #16
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Holy Crap I never heard of this... it makes sense... I always use my rear defrost and some winter days here get 40-50 below... probably literally shit if i was on the way to work and rear window shattered without warning... man that kind of sucks! I'm pretty sure that same button also powers the side mirror defrost.... right unplug at rear door not switch...
I'd say it would scare the crap out of you, from reports of those that have shattered it sorta sounds like a gunshot!!

And yes the same switch does the mirrors.
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Old 09-05-2021, 11:23 PM #17
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I’ve heard about the spontaneous exploding rear window but never heard what caused it. I’ve used mine a few times, guess I’ve been lucky. I’ll have to try and avoid it.

Reminds me of the Tartan Prancer (equivalent of an Albanian Hyundai) from the 2015 movie Vacation, pretty funny. 2015 vacation movie car glass breaks clip - Bing video
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Old 09-06-2021, 01:10 PM #18
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I am afraid of bursting my rear window. Is there an easy way to temporary disable rear defrost (never use it, but accidentally gets turn on when putting thing in cup holders w/o me notice etc). The fuse(#15) in the engine bay for this involve other systems (multiport fuel injection). 2003 V6. Thanks
You can in fact just pull the fuse, it is just the "defog" , pop the hood, open the fuse box just behind the battery. The defog is next to the fuel pump and unrelated... at least on this 2004 v6.
Fuse layout is on backside of the fuse box cover.

Mine has been out for a bit now, tossed it in the glovebox in case i need a spare.

$430 for new glass.
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Old 09-06-2021, 07:15 PM #19
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You can in fact just pull the fuse, it is just the "defog" , pop the hood, open the fuse box just behind the battery. The defog is next to the fuel pump and unrelated... at least on this 2004 v6.
Fuse layout is on backside of the fuse box cover.

Mine has been out for a bit now, tossed it in the glovebox in case i need a spare.

$430 for new glass.
My owners manual says different, as posted #15 fuse involve multiport fuel injection. What is the # in the one you are saying? Thanks.
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Old 09-06-2021, 09:35 PM #20
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My owners manual says different, as posted #15 fuse involve multiport fuel injection. What is the # in the one you are saying? Thanks.
?
Mine runs just fine without.

Maybe they are different south of the border?

...extra wires (red is not attached) were for an air compressor for the old Rancho9000 shocks.
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Old 09-07-2021, 03:06 PM #21
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Same fuses on a 2007. Just to be clear, the indicated thing your pulling is the relay, not the fuse.

I don't believe mine has the mirror defog, so just pulling that relay should be sufficient. When you hit the defog button, you here it click. After removing it, no click.

Started the car, and no CEL, so it's not multiport fuel injection.
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Old 09-07-2021, 09:15 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimlithepirate View Post
Same fuses on a 2007. Just to be clear, the indicated thing your pulling is the relay, not the fuse.

I don't believe mine has the mirror defog, so just pulling that relay should be sufficient. When you hit the defog button, you here it click. After removing it, no click.

Started the car, and no CEL, so it's not multiport fuel injection.
Thank you, relay.


I am a dummy.

I dont have the side mirror defog either, didn't think of that.
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Old 09-08-2021, 06:44 AM #23
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?
Mine runs just fine without.

Maybe they are different south of the border?

...extra wires (red is not attached) were for an air compressor for the old Rancho9000 shocks.
Great will check relay. Thanks a lot
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Old 09-08-2021, 08:21 AM #24
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Anyone got a picture of the specific plug to unplug in the rear hatch to disable the rear defroster and leave intact the heater mirrors?
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Old 09-08-2021, 04:46 PM #25
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Anyone got a picture of the specific plug to unplug in the rear hatch to disable the rear defroster and leave intact the heater mirrors?
It the only wires connect to the hatch glass so it shouldn't be hard to spot, there are 2 wire side by side, click on the following link below (which I post earlier in this topic post number 11) and there are 2 photos of the wires and connectors only but doesn't show the glass, but as I said they're the only wires connected to the glass.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...31801-9999.pdf
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:13 AM #26
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It the only wires connect to the hatch glass so it shouldn't be hard to spot, there are 2 wire side by side, click on the following link below (which I post earlier in this topic post number 11) and there are 2 photos of the wires and connectors only but doesn't show the glass, but as I said they're the only wires connected to the glass.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...31801-9999.pdf
Perfect Thank you!
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:26 PM #27
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Whether it's heat from arcing or increased resistance from corrosion, the root cause is almost certainly water either way. If you slather the whole area in some dielectric grease you should be fine for years. And/or just add comprehensive insurance to your policy for $50/yr or whatever it may be. I was sure wishing I had that coverage when a tree fell on my car worth over $5k and the homeowners/renters didn't cover it, have carried it since.
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:52 PM #28
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After seeing numerous posts on Facebook and in forums about the rear window shattering, I went ahead and disconnected the defrost heating connections. There are two connections as mentioned above, on the passenger side of the window (farthest to the passenger side) It helps if you roll the window down about half way so you can access it easier. I pulled on each tab, first one was easy, second one I needed to really work off. After removing the connections, I taped them up and zip tied them to the wire closest to it, and then put everything back together. I didnít notice any corrosion or browning on the metal tabs, but the plugs looked pretty old. Iím up in Michigan and itís likely that this shattering could happen due to the severe cold/un-even dispersing of the defrost heat on the window, so i feel a bit more at ease now! Hope this helps!
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Old 09-10-2021, 06:48 PM #29
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To add even more Context and some pictures... Here we go

*Step 0: roll down rear window about 1/4 to 1/2 down

Step 1: Remove inside tailgate 10mm screw on pull handle and remove the handle

Step 2 remove another plastic access panel for a place to pull from

Step 3: Firmly but carefully pull out clips for interior tailgate cover trim removal of entire cover trim is not needed as shown in the picture

step 4: gently remove moisture barrier from right side, leaving the sticky stuff intact to be reused

step 5: locate the 2 wires plugged into metal prongs on the glass in the right corner

step 6: remove plugs and zip tie to wire harness out of the way

step 7: reapply moisture barrier and put everything back together

Total time: 2 minutes and 30 seconds
Value: Never need to worry about glass exploding
Heated mirrors still work

Thank you @AuSeeker and @mi4Runner313
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Old 01-26-2024, 01:15 AM #30
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Hopefully someone is still looking at this thread. I've got a 2007 4runner sport V6 4WD. 236K Miles. My rear glass shattered this past summerdue to the defroster problem. Yup, was scary! When I had the glass replaced at All Star Glass, i asked them not to connect the electrical connectors for the defrost. Now it's winter, and I wouldn't mind using the defrost. Does anyone know if it was the factory glass that was defective, or if it is the electrical system that's defective? Of course I'm wondering if I cleaned up the connectors and connected them to the new glass, is this likely to happen again? I'm pretty sure the replacement glass they put in was pilkington brand glass.

Thanks
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