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Old 10-01-2021, 02:17 PM #1
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Should I replace seals if rebooting both CV Axles?

My 2008 SR5 V6 4x4 has 120k miles on it and both inner CV boots are torn. I've decided to pull the original axles and get the Toyota CV kit on Ebay for about $60 each and reboot both sides. I'm wondering if I should also order and replace the seals on the differential side as well. The originals don't seem to be leaking. I haven't done this work before so I'm wondering if I should tamper with the seals or not. Are the seals easily replaceable without having to use specialized equipment (ie. seal pullers?). Looking for any advice on this. Thanks,

Dave.
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Old 10-01-2021, 04:29 PM #2
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I just replaced my axles at 100 thousand miles due to a slight steering wheel vibration under acceleration. Also I notice one of the dust seals just started dripping slightly after some off roading a couple days before I changed the axles. After cleaning the dust seal good I could see that the actual rubber seal and springs that keep pressure on the axle shaft were in brand new shape. The OEM seals are excellent quality. Under closer inspection I could see that the seal was a tiny bit cock eyed. I tapped it back into flush. No more drip. If they aren't leaking and the rubber areas look good then they are fine. You can get them out by prying carefully with a long screwdriver without touching inside the diff.
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Old 10-01-2021, 04:36 PM #3
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If you choose to replace the front axle seals at the diff note that they do NOT sit flush. They must be set at a certain depth. Ask me how I know....
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Old 10-01-2021, 04:54 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy88fj62 View Post
If you choose to replace the front axle seals at the diff note that they do NOT sit flush. They must be set at a certain depth. Ask me how I know....
That's correct I misworded that. I set it back so it was not slightly cock eyed. Make sure you note where they sit before you replace them. Too far you'll be breaking a new seal out.
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Old 10-01-2021, 07:20 PM #5
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Thanks for the advice. I haven't pulled the axles yet so I don't know what shape they are in. I'm hoping that the original OEM ones are fine so I don't have to go through the process of installing new ones...
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Old 10-01-2021, 08:21 PM #6
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Thanks for the advice. I haven't pulled the axles yet so I don't know what shape they are in. I'm hoping that the original OEM ones are fine so I don't have to go through the process of installing new ones...
You would most likely know if they were bad. To check the joints grasp the joint housing firmly and check for lateral play, side to side. There should be no play side to side. A little in and out play is normal. You're going to have to take the axles out anyways to get to the dust seals. Have fun! Let me know if you have a question.
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Old 10-01-2021, 08:35 PM #7
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One final question. Do you know where I can get good quality cotter pins for the tie rod castle nut as well as for the axle nut? Are zinc or stainless better?
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Old 10-01-2021, 09:58 PM #8
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One final question. Do you know where I can get good quality cotter pins for the tie rod castle nut as well as for the axle nut? Are zinc or stainless better?
I prefer stainless steel cotter pins. The zinc plating could possibly wear off and lead to rust.
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