Quote:
Originally Posted by miller507
Make sure both the 4wd selector and the 4wd ring coupler (or whatever its called) is in 2wd.
You can also run the 4wd selector with the actuator outside the diff to verify it works and at the same time make sure its in the proper position.
Either way it shouldn't matter, actuator should reposition itself based on what mode the 4wd selector is. Pulling them apart for proper cleaning is pretty much a maintenance routine for me, I wheel a lot and mud and water tend to get everywhere.
Would go the easy route before going the whole resistance test route which can escalate quickly, I fried a transfer actuator and it was not fun.
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Attachment provides the information used to identify the problem as the ADD actuator and not the actuator on the transfer case. Initially my thoughts were the Aisin transfer case was shot as the vent hose had rotted off the fitting on the actuator.
I did apply 12 Volts to pins 1 &2 of the new ADD to ensure the fork travelled as required side to side and installed the unit in 2WD position. No resistance check. The resistance check is passive, non destructive, only for checking continuity.
Laying on the floor under the vehicle is time I want reduced. Haha. Therefore I decided to plug in the NEW unit. Three bolts are easily accessed and the forth one, top left corner, I used a 1/2 inch drive socket and L handle that barely fit between the bolt head and cross member beam to break the bolt tension. Luckily I was able to use two contorted fingers to spin the bolt out. Cleaned the Toyota FIPG material off the diff mounting area with a razor blade and green coloured scotch brite pad.
Squeezed out the Toyota FPIG (Form In Place Gasket) material on the ADD. Recommend this product. No water etc. bypasses the seal provided. Installed the ADD. The green light remained on. Curses! Haha!
So! While removing the new ADD and accessing that fourth bolt I followed the pig tail connector from the ADD end to where it connects to the wire harness from the ECU, after all the debris from years of off road rained down. This electrical junction is located on top of the lower control arm area. The harness is attached to a stubby metal tang that is bolted onto the frame, fortunately, as the area is too tight for my hands and separating the two plugs required WD40 soaking and 40 psi of air to blow out the debris.
After removing the Add I used the resistance test to verify the contacts BUT the NEW unit is identical to the old unit in this matter. The old unit cycles the fork without a problem. Began searching on the web with results provided for Tacos and Tundra vehicles requiring a relay on the power contacts to ensure no damage occurs. At the moment I’m unsure of the manuals information provided for the resistance test.
So after my last 320K ride up and down the Saskatchewan River valley south of Lodgepole AB. Switching in and out of 4H Locked/4Low locked 2H to 4H etc. the unit failed on the last switch from 4H locked to 2H. LUCKY! The unit was intermittent for a few shifts after tapping on the Main transfer case while attempting to understand the issue while troubleshooting with the unit up on jack stands. Was the intermittent operation due to the electrical failure? HOPEFULLY! BUT there is no hope in hope. Haha.
I ordered a new pig tail connector from Toyota as I could not locate one on the used market place. Part arriving Tuesday and will test the ADD unit after installing this electrical pigtail prior to mounting ADD onto the diff.
How did you grenade the main transfer case or the actuator??