Quote:
Originally Posted by weaves
To do it properly, you'll probably want to remove the steering rack because there's not a lot of room underneath there. The service manual says to back out the 24mm hex guide cap until the guide spring pressure is completely relieved. Then tighten the cap until it takes 6.2 - 13.3 in/lb of force to turn the splined shaft on the rack that connects to the steering shaft. I didn't want to go through removing the rack again so I just kind of winged it by feel.
Before you turn the guide cap, mark the current position of the cap to the body of the rack so you have a frame of reference.
Remove the outer lock nut with a pair of large channel locks or a large crescent wrench. Use a 24mm hex bit socket to turn the cap approximately 15-20 degrees (~1/16th turn). I didn't have a 24mm hex bit socket so I just used the head of a 24mm bolt I had laying around to turn the cap using vice grips. A 5/8" rod coupling nut from Home Depot will also fit and you can use a wrench to turn it.
It doesn't take much to bind the steering rack so make very small adjustments at a time. If the steering wheel doesn't return to center after you turn, then your preload is too tight. It took me about 3 tries to find the sweet spot.
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Very interesting. I also just found a video by Timmy the Toolman replacing this guide on a 3rd gen. I've had the same steering issues. Figured I need new UCA's. I probably still do (I get about 2.x degrees caster when it gets aligned) but at 260k miles, I feel it's likely that there is wear in the rack. Seems like an easy/cheap fix to try first. My question is why not just try to tighten it a little bit? Rather than loosen per the FSM procedure... Or is that how you approached it, and I read your post wrong? I see where the 3rd gens had a procedure where the guide cap gets tightened to 18 ft. lbs, then back off 19 degrees.