11-02-2021, 05:44 PM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Irvine
Posts: 68
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Irvine
Posts: 68
|
Pop/Click From Front End After Rebuild
I am getting a popping/clicking type of sound from the front end, when backing out of my driveway with the wheel turned to the left, and when hitting bumps that take the suspension down, before coming back up. Like a cross gutter in the road, doesn't happen over a speed bump. The following work was done, prior to it making this noise.
Front Shocks (Bilstein 5100)
Front upper control arms and bushings
Front Lower control arm bushings
Front ball joints
Front Steering stabilizer grommets
I have gone through and checked all of the nuts and bolts, everything is tight. With the front wheels off the ground, no movement side to side of the wheels. All seems to be good, but this noise is making me concerned that something ain't right.
Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-02-2021, 06:31 PM
|
#2
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroV
I am getting a popping/clicking type of sound from the front end, when backing out of my driveway with the wheel turned to the left, and when hitting bumps that take the suspension down, before coming back up. Like a cross gutter in the road, doesn't happen over a speed bump. The following work was done, prior to it making this noise.
Front Shocks (Bilstein 5100)
Front upper control arms and bushings
Front Lower control arm bushings
Front ball joints
Front Steering stabilizer grommets
I have gone through and checked all of the nuts and bolts, everything is tight. With the front wheels off the ground, no movement side to side of the wheels. All seems to be good, but this noise is making me concerned that something ain't right.
Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
|
Mine been doing for years. I kept replacing so many suspension components that it is practically whole new front end. All oem parts. Still pops like a metallic sound. Can’t find any scratch marks anywhere. Even a sway bar drop didn’t do anything. Pops whenever I’m going a bit too fast for any bumps or dips.
__________________
2022 Toyota 4Runner TRD OFF ROAD PREMIUM
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 07:10 AM
|
#3
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
Age: 36
Posts: 5,066
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
Age: 36
Posts: 5,066
|
is your springs installed correctly? if you are anal about it, there is a certain way the springs have to be facing. mine makes a slight noise since I have some coil rub from these Moog springs. also check out the rubber isolator at the top hat. I think if those are worn, they cause some noise during hard bumps.
__________________
Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 02:10 PM
|
#4
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 88
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 88
|
I also replaced Shocks, Struts, Calipers, Pads, rotors, sway bar bushings and I too now have this pop/click when I reverse out of my driveway with the wheel cranked to the right.
Scares me to hear it thinking that I may have screwed something up and the front end will fall off at highway speeds.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 02:15 PM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 424
Real Name: George
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 424
Real Name: George
|
have the same or similar problem and am currently T/S'ing wish i had another person. watching this thread thanks.
__________________
2005 V8 170k
Doug Thorley Shorties, Magnaflow Cats, Gibson Exhaust
Falken Wildpeak AT3 265/70-17
Gen5 Brake Upgrade
Transmission Fluid Coolant Line Replace
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 02:40 PM
|
#6
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by riceandpho
is your springs installed correctly? if you are anal about it, there is a certain way the springs have to be facing. mine makes a slight noise since I have some coil rub from these Moog springs. also check out the rubber isolator at the top hat. I think if those are worn, they cause some noise during hard bumps.
|
Yep. I have the springs pointing like stock. I even placed nylon washers between the skid plate and mounting surface. Sat and stare for days. Nothing jumped out on me. LOL
__________________
2022 Toyota 4Runner TRD OFF ROAD PREMIUM
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 04:40 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,547
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,547
|
I'd like to say I have a similar noise coming from somewhere but can't confirm 100%. I've done so much work to various parts that its hard to say when it started or where its coming from.
Did you lift the car any when replacing with the bilsteins? could it be that the inner OD of the replacement shock is just a bit larger than what was on there before allowing it to slightly shift while decompressing first before going into compression? Sounds unlikely so probably just ignore my input lol.
From time to time my rear link bolts need to be tightened slightly ever since I built custom links with heims and it seem like they'll pop back and forth a little. My heims also seem to want to rotate time to time and also make a slight clunk so I can't ever tell if its from the frontend all the time or also from the year.
My issue could also be coming from one of the skid plate bolts in the rear falling out and me being too lazy to replace it...
Eventually I got over my fear that something is loose so I'm just letting it be.
Last edited by aemravan; 11-04-2021 at 04:43 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-04-2021, 05:39 PM
|
#8
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: 559
Age: 42
Posts: 368
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
I'd like to say I have a similar noise coming from somewhere but can't confirm 100%. I've done so much work to various parts that its hard to say when it started or where its coming from.
Did you lift the car any when replacing with the bilsteins? could it be that the inner OD of the replacement shock is just a bit larger than what was on there before allowing it to slightly shift while decompressing first before going into compression? Sounds unlikely so probably just ignore my input lol.
From time to time my rear link bolts need to be tightened slightly ever since I built custom links with heims and it seem like they'll pop back and forth a little. My heims also seem to want to rotate time to time and also make a slight clunk so I can't ever tell if its from the frontend all the time or also from the year.
My issue could also be coming from one of the skid plate bolts in the rear falling out and me being too lazy to replace it...
Eventually I got over my fear that something is loose so I'm just letting it be.
|
I just drive faster over bumps or dips and say to myself, f@ck IT! LOL.
__________________
2022 Toyota 4Runner TRD OFF ROAD PREMIUM
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-05-2021, 10:39 AM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 12
Real Name: Matt
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 12
Real Name: Matt
|
Depending on how high you lifted after putting the new bilsteins on, you CV axles could be binding. That would make sense. Also Sway bar links could be worn out and now with the additional lift making it more noticeable because of new angles created from the lift. With it being more noticable when turning it could easily be either of those scenarios.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-07-2021, 02:40 AM
|
#10
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 440
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 440
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDobb79
Depending on how high you lifted after putting the new bilsteins on, you CV axles could be binding. That would make sense. Also Sway bar links could be worn out and now with the additional lift making it more noticeable because of new angles created from the lift. With it being more noticable when turning it could easily be either of those scenarios.
|
I was going to say nobody is mentioning cv axles? Im with MDobb, especially the clicking when turning. I know that sound all too well.
__________________
07 SR5 4x4
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-07-2021, 07:28 PM
|
#11
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Eastern, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 474
Real Name: Bob
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Eastern, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 474
Real Name: Bob
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDobb79
Depending on how high you lifted after putting the new bilsteins on, you CV axles could be binding. That would make sense. Also Sway bar links could be worn out and now with the additional lift making it more noticeable because of new angles created from the lift. With it being more noticable when turning it could easily be either of those scenarios.
|
CV's binding?? I would think it would have to be a MAJOR lift to bind the CV's. From stock to the 1.75 setting on Bilsteins, my CV's went from just slightly pointing up at the outer end, to essentially flat, if not just barely pointing down (at outer end). IOW, the change in position should remain WELL within the normal articulation range of the CV joints.
__________________
2008 SR5 4WD
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-07-2021, 10:02 PM
|
#12
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 46
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 46
|
Clicking when turning is a classic indication of worn CV joints, but nobody is reporting failed CVs. Nonetheless, I'd check the CV boots first, even though other have gone well beyond this.
__________________
--o-------o-
2008 4R Limited. Mostly stock and runing great!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-08-2021, 09:42 AM
|
#13
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 88
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 88
|
I finally got around to replacing my front stabilizer links over the weekend. I previously replaced all of the sway bar bushings front and rear.
The sway bar bushings got rid of a lot of "thunks" when going ver bumps.
Replacing the stabilizer links got rid of the "pop/click" noise. The old ones were in pretty bad shape and had some play in the.
Amazon.com: (2) Front Stabilizer Links Fits Lexus GX470 Toyota 4RUNNER FJ Cruiser : Automotive
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-08-2021, 12:12 PM
|
#14
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: santa clarita
Posts: 396
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: santa clarita
Posts: 396
|
The popping noise you hear on hard turns is the upper ball joint being lifted too high. This happened to me when I installed stock bilsteins and a puck spacer. The lift was way too high and binding the ball joint.
What is the measurement from the center of your front wheel hub to the beginning of the fender? It should be in the 21-22" range for a 2-3" lift. Any higher and the upper control arm is upset. This was my issue even with aftermarket JBA UCAs.
__________________
2008 4Runner Sport Edition 4.7 V8 4WD
1988 FJ62 Landcruiser
President LA County Trailcrew 4x4's
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Trailcrew4x4
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-15-2021, 04:46 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,547
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,547
|
Just dropping back in to update my issue.
I was able to determine that one of my JBA UCA's wasn't fully tight on the nut that secures the balljoint shank to the spindle. Because I have gussets welded on it was a very easy nut to overlook while previously checking.
I was able to tighten it almost 1 full turn so it must have had enough space to physically pull the conical shank up and out of the spindle and then reset itself.
With regards to the balljoint popping due to reaching its limit I don't know if I can agree 100%.. I'm on JBA's and do not have the pop anymore, and I'm at 3" of lift on Icon's. Not to mention the popping wasn't happening at extreme droops, but rather under light load up/down, like when turning the wheel and going in/out of the driveway or coming to a stop/compressing the suspension and then turning and decompressing it.
**EDIT**
well... my victory was short lived lol. Last night while dumping some stuff at the dumpster I decided to do a flex test and see where all my bumpstops are at. After doing this, my popping is back louder than before and only happens when I have the steering wheel cranked to left or right and go to take off from a stop, or by turning heavily left/right while moving. Does not happen under heavy accel/decel. I have gone over all my bolt and i THINK everything is tight, maybe i'm missing something. My current though process is that it could possibly be the JBA upper balljoints starting to go out a year after installation. The boots are torn to hell, and though it has some grease in there I think theres a high chance i have moisture and debris infiltration. I have 2 replacement balljoints on the way for next week and will swap them out and see what happpens.. hopefully it solve the issue, if not then i'll have to do some more investigating.
Last edited by aemravan; 11-18-2021 at 02:40 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|