11-15-2021, 04:53 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Cadiz, KY
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Location: Cadiz, KY
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I'm wondering about that stuck caliper theory. I've changed u-joints, inner bearing to the tighter aftermarket one (OEM was fine when I pulled it out), new CV and hub w/bearings. I also had to replace the ABS wiring harness since the caliper fell off the hanger and broke the line when I did the CV/bearings. The odd thing is it sometimes goes away and it seems that at low speed if I put it in 4HI the vibration is less. I have never played with the calipers other than checking the pads and rotor thickness. I also serviced the transmission just in case. Nothing has gotten rid of that vibration.
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12-02-2021, 09:55 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
Rotors warped enough to cause a vibration when not braking should give a severe shake under braking shouldn't they?
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That is what I am thinking
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12-02-2021, 09:56 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haro
I'm having the same problem. took it the a hunter road force balance, than I was told that my tires were old, I replace them, the problem still there. the mechanic looked under checked the drive shaft and didnt find anything.
The funny thing is today I drove 1:20 hr I hit 53mph for about 3 min and about 10 min later I was doing 60 min for about 4 min. and the entire trip no vibration
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That weird for sure. Mine always does it under load between 50-60 mph
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12-02-2021, 10:11 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Idaho
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- Does it stop if you let off the gas?
- Do you feel it through your steering wheel or seat?
- have you rotated the tires?
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12-03-2021, 04:42 AM
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#20
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Location: South East UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
Rotors warped enough to cause a vibration when not braking should give a severe shake under braking shouldn't they?
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My rear caliper shudder went away when I braked. The piston must have seized at just the right place to create shudder when not in used. At higher speeds I guess it was 'over-powered' and not noticeable. Just feel your brake rotors straight after you stop, try and coast to a halt. At 60mph a sticky caliper will result in a scorching hot rotor (Still got the blister )
At least it's something you can rule out in 10 seconds if it isn't a caliper.
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2008 2.7 2WD 4 speed (Tacoma-Runner?)
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12-03-2021, 05:02 AM
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#21
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Location: Austin, Tx
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Did the vibration start right after replacing the U-joints? Did you mark the alignment of the driveshaft and trans/transfer case before replacing them? Another thought if it's a V8 4x2, the driveshaft has a harmonic balancer pressed onto a rubber bushing, it can degrade far enough to cause vibration
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12-03-2021, 08:28 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ida4runner
- Does it stop if you let off the gas?
- Do you feel it through your steering wheel or seat?
- have you rotated the tires?
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It goes away when I let off the gas. I feel it somewhat in the steering wheel and somewhat in the seat. It’s almost like I’m hitting a light rumble strip. Yes tires have been rotated
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12-03-2021, 08:29 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamBazzy
Did the vibration start right after replacing the U-joints? Did you mark the alignment of the driveshaft and trans/transfer case before replacing them? Another thought if it's a V8 4x2, the driveshaft has a harmonic balancer pressed onto a rubber bushing, it can degrade far enough to cause vibration
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I had the vibration before I replaced the U joints. Yes I made sure to mark everything so that I put it back at the exact same place. I have the V8 With all time 4 x 4. Guessing it has a different set up without the harmonic balancer?
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12-03-2021, 11:47 AM
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#24
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Look up some posts on the torque converter shudder. More than likely it has something to do with that rather than any other rotating assembly since it sounds like its load/rpm dependent rather that pure speed dependent.
I'm not sure how well they work, but there are additives advertised to reduce/stop torque converter/auto trans shudder.
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12-03-2021, 12:56 PM
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#25
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Wheel bearings.. Front or back..
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12-03-2021, 07:31 PM
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#26
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Location: Austin, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuyrunner
I had the vibration before I replaced the U joints. Yes I made sure to mark everything so that I put it back at the exact same place. I have the V8 With all time 4 x 4. Guessing it has a different set up without the harmonic balancer?
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Gotcha. The 4x4 doesn't have that harmonic balancer, it was put on the V8 to eliminate vibrations with the length of the 4x2 driveshaft. Guys with the V8 4x4 upgrade to the GX470 driveshaft because of a similar problem, but I think that was more closely aligned with a clunk coming to a full stop.
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12-03-2021, 08:32 PM
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#27
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Is this a AWD? Do you have a lift?
if yes I would disconnect the front driveshaft and see if it still has a vibration, by what you're describing my best guess is something with a CV axle, I've had to return a new CV axle for vibration.
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12-03-2021, 10:07 PM
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#28
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my mechanic told me to replace the brake hose, cause passenger front tire is not moving while on the lift. tomorrow Im going to replace the front brake hose, calipers and brake pads.
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12-04-2021, 05:35 PM
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#29
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I was nerding out trying to learn about the lock-up on these, and found this. (I wondered if the transmission slips all the time to save fuel at the expense of friction material - I know what I would rather buy, fuel. It's easier to replace.)
Toyota Flex Lock Up Converter (A Rose by any other Name) - Transmission Digest
Quote:
Not all flex-lock issues have TSBs or trouble codes to refer to, as is the case of a 2007 Tacoma equipped with an A750E 5 speed.
Initially, a customer had his Tacoma serviced with 86,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, the shop put in the wrong fluid. The vehicle required World Standard (WS) – and that’s no joke. Always use WS where required, or shudder could rear its ugly head. The customer returned the next day with a shudder that supposedly was not there previously. The shop flushed and refilled the unit with the proper fluid, but no cigar. The problem remained and the games were on.
Overall, the transmission worked well. All upshifts and downshifts were good and on target and if the vehicle was driven with a normal or heavy throttle, lock up worked good as well. The issue was light throttle take-offs.
Flex lock on this vehicle cannot start to apply until after a shift to second gear and normally not until 20 or 30 mph, which is where the Tacoma started “buckin, chuggin, shakin and shudderin”. It would actually buck like you were shifting a manual from 1st to 4th and then it would start to shudder.
A reflash of the vehicle’s ECM was useless and the correct reset (memory reset) needed to be done with a Toyota scan system, since most regular scanners are unable to do it. There were no trouble codes and all related sensors were tested and found to be functioning correctly. An engine systems check was also performed to look for firing issues such as spark plug, coil or injector problems. None were found.
At higher speeds (above 40 mph), lock up could be cancelled with the brake pedal. If you touched the pedal, the TCC unlocked because it was in full lock up, but below 40 mph, pressing the brake pedal had no effect.
To determine if the shudder issue is definitely due to flex lock, place the shifter in manual fourth. The transmission will shift 1st through 4th and lock up will only apply in 4th and only with full apply, no partial. If all is well, flex lock is the thing you’re dealing with, as it was on the Tacoma.
Flex-lock issues can be due to a bad converter, engine stumbles, ECM or sensor glitches or valve-body/solenoid wear problems (figure 4). The Tacoma had TCC valve wear that needed to be addressed. Fortunately, replacement valves and cutting tools are available in the aftermarket.
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2008 2.7 2WD 4 speed (Tacoma-Runner?)
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12-04-2021, 05:37 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haro
my mechanic told me to replace the brake hose, cause passenger front tire is not moving while on the lift. tomorrow Im going to replace the front brake hose, calipers and brake pads.
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Let us know how you get on and if it solves the problem mate.
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