[gbaker]

Hi everyone & merry Christmas! The weather in NY is super nice today and tomorrow, so I decided to attempt my first brake job. Rear Pads & Rotors on my 2008 4Runner Sport V8. My trusted mechanic said it's getting pretty tired underneath so it may not be worth putting much money into. Thus, I decided to try to DIY...

This one rotor pin bolt was super stuck, wouldn't break loose with an impact with an impact swivel so I decided to go old school with a breaker bar. The breaker bar, with a cheater bar broke it loose, unfortunately it sheared the pin off in the caliper bracket. I've tried quite a bit of PB blaster, attempted to beat it out from the other side with a punch that ended up bending, and I attempted to drill it out, but gave up on that too. All of the pin boots were also completely trashed. I've had the caliper bracket cranked in a vice multiple times while trying to beat the pin out. Is my best bet just to order new caliper brackets, pins, and pin boots/bushings for both sides? I'm pretty new to this DIY thing, so can you check what I think I need?

Rear Left Reman Caliper Bracket (current brackets seem to have 14BD & R22 etched into them)

Rear Right Reman Caliper Bracket

CARLSON 16005 Disc Brake Caliper Pin Boot Kit (x2 sets)

DORMAN HW14044 Rear Disc Brake Bolts (x2 sets)

I'll see if anyone local has these in-stock tomorrow, but want to make sure I'm on the right path!

[SocalSam]

Try inserting good pin from the other side and use as a punch.

[rdruss]

Go with replacements, it will make the job easier and probably better in long run.

[mooch91]

Replace... for the $50-60 for a caliper (what I've been paying at NAPA for their lifetime remans as I've been re-doing my brakes, I believe), it's just easier and more cost effective to swap the whole thing. I don't think there are different variations for the rear on a 4th gen (unlike the front).

[MikeinNH67]

The best way to get that out is by welding a nut onto what's left. Otherwise get a new caliper. Make sure you get all the parts you need as there may be variations as to what it comes with.

[gbaker]

Alright here's the update and the final problem that I'm not sure if I adequately overcame. Bought new brackets, new rubber hardware, and new pins.

When I was previously taking everything apart, I found it odd, but didn't think much of it, that one pin loosened, but didn't zip out of the caliper. I ended up having to pry it gently with a screwdriver as I backed it out with the impact. I also noticed what I perceived at the time as really small and spread out "springs" came out at the same time. I thought maybe there were springs embedded in the rubber bracket hardware that were so trashed they just came out of the rubber.

Putting it back together, the caliper pin bolt threads into the caliper, but after a snug tightness then loosens. I can repeatedly tighten it, but once I tighten it to a certain point it loosens. I wonder if the "springs" that came out were some of the threads in the caliper? I'm not in a position to replace the caliper myself, I'm working on my stone driveway in the middle of winter and I also don't know how to bleed brakes or make new brakelines if needed.

My temporary (?) solution was to go buy orange Loctite (strength of red, doesn't vibrate loose, but can eventually break loose with standard tools like blue). I put orange loctite on the thread of the one pin and tightened it to the tightest possible point before it would break loose. I'm letting it fully cure for 24 hours before I break the brakes in. If I'm estimating based on the torque wrench on the other pins, I'm going to say it's 30-40lb of torque + orange loctite.

This is not my daily driver, I use it to plow my driveway and drive to work on ~5 of the snowiest days of the school year. Am I OK monitoring this "fix" or do I need to immediately have the caliper replaced? the other pin bolt is torqued to spec. The pin with loctite doesn't pull out easily even when it's broke loose, I had to pry it with a screwdriver.

Thoughts?

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by gbaker

Alright here's the update and the final problem that I'm not sure if I adequately overcame. Bought new brackets, new rubber hardware, and new pins.

When I was previously taking everything apart, I found it odd, but didn't think much of it, that one pin loosened, but didn't zip out of the caliper. I ended up having to pry it gently with a screwdriver as I backed it out with the impact. I also noticed what I perceived at the time as really small and spread out "springs" came out at the same time. I thought maybe there were springs embedded in the rubber bracket hardware that were so trashed they just came out of the rubber.

Putting it back together, the caliper pin bolt threads into the caliper, but after a snug tightness then loosens. I can repeatedly tighten it, but once I tighten it to a certain point it loosens. I wonder if the "springs" that came out were some of the threads in the caliper? I'm not in a position to replace the caliper myself, I'm working on my stone driveway in the middle of winter and I also don't know how to bleed brakes or make new brakelines if needed.

My temporary (?) solution was to go buy orange Loctite (strength of red, doesn't vibrate loose, but can eventually break loose with standard tools like blue). I put orange loctite on the thread of the one pin and tightened it to the tightest possible point before it would break loose. I'm letting it fully cure for 24 hours before I break the brakes in. If I'm estimating based on the torque wrench on the other pins, I'm going to say it's 30-40lb of torque + orange loctite.

This is not my daily driver, I use it to plow my driveway and drive to work on ~5 of the snowiest days of the school year. Am I OK monitoring this "fix" or do I need to immediately have the caliper replaced? the other pin bolt is torqued to spec. The pin with loctite doesn't pull out easily even when it's broke loose, I had to pry it with a screwdriver.

Thoughts?

You should be fine for as little as you use the vehicle....BUT I would replace the caliper when you can.

[4R005]

I’ll get new calipers if I were you. That unit in your pic looked in pretty bad shape. I just replaced both rear calipers on my ’05 4R /V8 about 3 months ago. Got them from RockAuto. They were on their “wholesalers closeout list”. Just got onto their site and you can still buy them , a complete set of caliper w/mounting bracket for USD 33.99
They are reman. units from Nugeon P/N 9901662A and 9901662B. Yes, you’ll have to bleed rear brakes after but procedure is easy and simpler work than the caliper R/R IMO.
Lots of YT vids for How To Do.
Just separate old caliper at the banjo nut to caliper connection for the caliper R/R. You can use exist pads if even wear pattern and still lots of meat left, otherwise buy new. If you choose to buy from RA, use this 5% off discount code @ checkout. Good till Jan19/24 - # 253037574146783356.
Happy New Year and stress free wrenching. Cheers.

[spaikmos]

When you remove the bajo bolt to switch calipers, is there a way to keep fluid from leaking out of the bolt? I ended up rebuilding my calipers but needed to order parts, and the entire system went dry. Now I need to figure out how to fill the entire system with fluid.

I tried wrapping some saran wrap on the line and used a rubber band to secure it, but that didn't work.

FWIW - if you just switch calipers, you should only need to disconnect the brake line for a few minutes so you'll be fine. In my case, I had it off for a week and everything drained out.

[4R005]

I used a pair of vise grips. Covered the jaws with masking tape ( duct tape is OK too ) and crimped the hose ( at mid span ) to the banjo nut. Adjust jaw closing gradually from a dripping state to drip free. Do not mash/flatten the hose which is not necessary to get to a drip free state. I have left hose crimped for days while waiting for parts to arrive w/o any leaks or damage to hose.

[toyo]

Originally Posted by spaikmos

When you remove the bajo bolt to switch calipers, is there a way to keep fluid from leaking out of the bolt? I ended up rebuilding my calipers but needed to order parts, and the entire system went dry. Now I need to figure out how to fill the entire system with fluid.

I tried wrapping some saran wrap on the line and used a rubber band to secure it, but that didn't work.

FWIW - if you just switch calipers, you should only need to disconnect the brake line for a few minutes so you'll be fine. In my case, I had it off for a week and everything drained out.

If you still have the little black caps that go onto the bleeder valve you can take one of those and push it into the hole and it will stop it from leaking out.

[toyo]

Another trick I have had to use when in a pinch and cant get a new caliper bracket is take and drill a small hole on the back side of the bracket where the pin is. After doing that you use the little hose from the can of penetrant and spray into the hole. Let it soak for a bit and then take a torch of some kind and heat it up. Insert a small punch and knock it right out. Clean it all up good with brake cleaner. AFTER you have installed and completed the brake job then take any type of good sealant and put a dab of it over the hole you drilled. The rear I say after you are done is because when you insert the new pin into the bracket you will have some air pressure that has to escape from pushing the lubed pin in the bracket. It will blow your sealant out. Also, depending on which pin it is you will see a rubber plug that you can remove instead of drilling.

[rdruss]

Originally Posted by spaikmos

When you remove the bajo bolt to switch calipers, is there a way to keep fluid from leaking out of the bolt? I ended up rebuilding my calipers but needed to order parts, and the entire system went dry. Now I need to figure out how to fill the entire system with fluid.

I tried wrapping some saran wrap on the line and used a rubber band to secure it, but that didn't work.

FWIW - if you just switch calipers, you should only need to disconnect the brake line for a few minutes so you'll be fine. In my case, I had it off for a week and everything drained out.

Use the gravity method to refill your drained system. If you've got all your calipers on, fill your brake fluid reservoir and crack the driver side front
bleeder screw loose and leave it loose until fluid starts to drip out, then tighten it. Repeat at each caliper, pass side front, then driver rear, then pass rear. This is reverse order of how you would normally bleed your calipers. Once all calipers have leaked fluid, do normal bleed.