A friend gave me the bushings and I read a few threads that say it's almost impossible to swap the rack bushings without pulling the unit.

How bad is it? I've pulled the V8 exhaust manifold, replaced the starter under the intake so I feel confident I could take on a tricky project if it's doable.

If I have to pull the rack then I'd just put in an OEM new one and new high pressure line as the same time. Trying to avoid $1,500 in parts at this time.

Ugh, stupid spam -_-

Pulling the rack isn't too bad. I got my old one out in about 2 hours, new one in in about 1 hour. Agree that you aren't swapping those bushings without getting it out.

I did a reman rack from rackdoctor because I was leaking fluid everywhere. I needed more than just bushings. I paid 370, which was worth it to me to just be done with it.

You’ll have to pull it out to install rack bushings. I did mine and I have a V8 as well. Wasn’t bad once you get everything disconnected

Ugh, literally just got an alignment. Now I'm going to have to go back in there. Debating whether I should pony up and get a new OEM rack. I don't drive my truck nice when I offroad so I want it to hold up for another 500,000 miles.

I'm tempted to go to a LC200 series rack on mine. The stock rack really sucks with bigger tires. Especially the twig sized tie rod ends.

Is there a known swap that has been done? I believe the KOH 4Runner used 100 series rack with offset solid aluminum pucks instead of bushings.

I've seen a couple of people using these on Facebook. Problem is its not a drop-in replacement. Your looking at fab work to retrofit the two together.

More common drop-in solution is a gx460 rack. That said, there is a lot of debate as to whether there is any real difference there. My guess from what I've seen described in other threads is that the GX rack has slightly different internals, but not significantly different.

That's why I ended up with an OEM reman from rackdoctor. They last a good long while, and are still an OEM fit and finish. But, I also have no intent to ever go over 33s.

Upgrade to some sankei 555 inner/outer tie rods. They are a bit more beefy than the oem ones and they are also made in Japan. I just installed some few weeks ago since my oem ones were shot.

Where did you pick those up?

Napa sells them. its not listed as 555, but if you scroll down it says the brand is 555 and so is the box it comes in.

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Its usually the inners that like to bend/break but I just bought both tie rods from them since its a quality product.

Whiteline is the best polyurethane bushings. I have a set that I can show you. Don't go with the other brands because it's too stiff and hard to install. The Whiteline steering rack bushings is softer and slides right in effortlessly.
It will make your life a lot easier and it's only like $30 as compared to the $70 Energy brand. I regret buying the Energy brand and for my next rebuild I will be using Whiteline. I will be rebuilding a second steering rack soon. I am just waiting for my suppliers to get me silicone dust bellows and tie rod ends with silicone dust boots. I should get the silicone bellows next month.

The polyurethane bushings for the rack make a huge difference and it doesn't squeak at all. Whiteline part # W13373

In addition to poly steering rack bushings, it REALLY tightens the front end up when you get rid of the rag joint in the steering shaft and put Whiteline LCA bushings as well. Other than an annoying clunk when I go over bumps, the front end of mine is as tight as a gnats @$$.

How do you get rid of the rag joint? Any articles or links?

The rag joint is in the upper portion of the steering shaft, inside the truck. I disassembled it, cut out the spacers in the rag joint itself, turned it 90* and bolted it back together with the spacers in there. Had to move my steering wheel 90* to match but have had no issues with it. Toyota should have left rag joints in the 90s