12-04-2021, 09:43 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Help please! Brake line failure/electrical issues?
Hopefully this is something that someone else has seen before and it’s an easy fix! Several days ago I was only a few miles from my house going to drop cardboard at a recycling box when out of the blue, the loud beeping started, VSC/Trac lights, and others came on. I knew this indicated a brake issue, having had a caliper seal let go from a frozen caliper years back. Stepped on the brake, and sure enough, not much stopping power. I didn’t panic though because I could see my destination just ahead, so I carefully drove it there, downshifting to slow it down, and proceeded to dump the cardboard since I didn’t want to waste the trip. Now, comes the fun part… since I only live about 2-3 miles away, and not wanting to wait an hour for AAA, I decided to carefully drive it home where I could fix it (already realized something blew at the right rear because everything was dripping with fluid). About 1/2 mile up the road, my stereo went black (aftermarket Sony CarPlay unit), and the truck started losing power big time! It slowed to a crawl, started sputtering, etc., so I pulled it safely onto the shoulder and called AAA. It would not restart, and struggled to turn over as if the battery was dead/too low on voltage while I was waiting for the tow. Once we got it to my house however, the driver started it on the flatbed, and backed it down the ramp to where I waned it, so I figured maybe the truck went into some sort of “limp mode” as a safety feature, but it clears after setting for a 1/2 hour or something. Once I was home, I pulled the rear wheel, cleaned everything up, and verified that it was a pinhole in the hardline feeding the flex hose to the caliper. Line was pretty rusty in the steel, uncoated ends, so I had to cut the line and use a socket to get the fittings out, even after soaking for several hours with PB Blaster because the fittings were beginning to round, even with a brand new flare wrench. After measuring the line, I knew if using a pre-flared line, I’d end up with either too much slack, or too short, unless I got a long one, and re-flared one end. Having recently moved, and not knowing exactly where all my brake line stuff was packed, I decided the easiest path was to just call the stealership and order a replacement. To my surprise, they could not only have it the next morning, but it was fairly affordable at $28, so I pulled the trigger. Got it installed yesterday, refilled the reservoir, but before trying to bleed, or anything, I was curious about the electrical issues, so I figured now that the leak was resolved, I’d try to at least start it, and see what warning lights were on, if radio worked, etc. Dead as a door nail! There had been enough battery power to pop the locks, but definitely not enough to start it. Checked voltage with my meter and it was only 6 volts. Having literally lent out my good charger earlier this week (and it being a 1 hour round trip away), I threw on my Battery Tender, which has a charger also, but lame 3amp. Battery appeared to be about charged later in the day, but I had to leave without having the time to fool with it. Anyone have a guess as “why” my battery died, and my stereo blacked out? I’ve never before had electrical involvement just from a hydraulic brake failure! Does the computer put the vehicle into “limp mode” with brake system failure, and if so, does that drain the battery somehow? Going to play with it more today, but figured I should reach out on here to see if anyone had gone through this scenario before, and what they had to do to resolve it!
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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12-04-2021, 11:53 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,617
Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,617
Real Name: Skip
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Don't know why you would have such electrical issues just from a failed brake line, but I know at least on my 2004 that it never had such issues when I had a brake line fail, my front left caliper hard line broke from flexing, the bolt securing the flex line to the steering arm was broken off when I bought it and apparently over time the slight flexing from turning broke the hard line, It was a few years ago on Thanksgiving night and nothing was opened to get another hard line to fix it and I was 90 miles home and I had to be back home to work the next day, I wasn't going to pay for a 90 mile tow and traffic was almost nonexistent and only a few traffic lights on the way, so I drove for almost 2 hours to get home using downshifting and using the parking brake to come to a complete stop, I was slowing down way ahead of time trying to time what traffic lights I did encounter so i didn't have to stop, only had to come to a complete stop about 10 to 15 times with most because of stop signs, but my 4Runner never missed a beat running wise and definitely no electrical issues.
My guess is that your electrical issue is just a coincident and just bad luck, unless somehow the brake fluid shortened something out but I can't imagine what that could be, let us know what you find out.
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2004 Limited V8
Last edited by AuSeeker; 12-04-2021 at 11:55 AM.
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12-04-2021, 12:11 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 416
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Location: Colorado
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There is no connection between a hydraulic line failure and battery failure. There is no limp mode, your radio and other electrical accessories shut down due to a voltage drop.
A six volt reading indicates a battery that most likely can not be salvaged, regardless of what charger you use on it. Before installing a new battery, I'd restart from a jump and check the charging voltage to see if the alternator went out as well.
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12-04-2021, 04:08 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Senior Member
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Location: MA
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Thanks guys, that was my thought process as well with it not being related, but it definitely struck me as weird going from having no issues for a very long time, and even driving down the coast for more than 1200 miles towing a heavily loaded trailer, to suddenly have this stuff ALL occur within a few minutes time, which is why I thought “maybe” there was something in the ECU that would affect the electrical system as a safety thing. I will definitely update this when I have more info.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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12-04-2021, 04:14 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
Don't know why you would have such electrical issues just from a failed brake line, but I know at least on my 2004 that it never had such issues when I had a brake line fail, my front left caliper hard line broke from flexing, the bolt securing the flex line to the steering arm was broken off when I bought it and apparently over time the slight flexing from turning broke the hard line, It was a few years ago on Thanksgiving night and nothing was opened to get another hard line to fix it and I was 90 miles home and I had to be back home to work the next day, I wasn't going to pay for a 90 mile tow and traffic was almost nonexistent and only a few traffic lights on the way, so I drove for almost 2 hours to get home using downshifting and using the parking brake to come to a complete stop, I was slowing down way ahead of time trying to time what traffic lights I did encounter so i didn't have to stop, only had to come to a complete stop about 10 to 15 times with most because of stop signs, but my 4Runner never missed a beat running wise and definitely no electrical issues.
My guess is that your electrical issue is just a coincident and just bad luck, unless somehow the brake fluid shortened something out but I can't imagine what that could be, let us know what you find out.
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That’s good to know you were able to drive home for that much distance without any issues! The main difference in my instance was that it was a rear line, and from my understanding (may be wrong), the rear brakes are pressurized by the electric pump on the master cylinder on our vehicles, which is different than most in the way it works. That led me to think that because I ran it dry by all the fluid being pumped out, that it may have caused the ECU to put it into a limp mode for safety. Once again, all speculation on my part just trying to make sense of what happened.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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12-04-2021, 04:16 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seymore Butts
There is no connection between a hydraulic line failure and battery failure. There is no limp mode, your radio and other electrical accessories shut down due to a voltage drop.
A six volt reading indicates a battery that most likely can not be salvaged, regardless of what charger you use on it. Before installing a new battery, I'd restart from a jump and check the charging voltage to see if the alternator went out as well.
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Yeah, hopefully it’s not the alternator. Battery isn’t that old, maybe 3 years or so. From what I remember reading on here, the alternator is a bear to change.
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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12-05-2021, 09:18 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Illinois
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I just had my alternator up and die on me without any warning a few days ago.
Mine is the v6 so location is different than you.
Went to a buddy's house to work out, left and the battery light came on 500 yards down the road.
Drove it to a repair place close by (as I was 20 minutes from my house and didn't want to risk trying to get back home to change it myself) and had the shop change the alternator and serpentine belt.
Alternator was $305 and belt was $60 both Toyota OEM.
All in was $683 with only 2 hours labor. Sounded perfect to me.
Back on the road and running perfectly again with 238,500 on her.
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Metramm
2006 4Runner Limited 4x4 v6
241,000 miles and counting!
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12-11-2021, 09:10 PM
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#8
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Update… issues all resolved
Sorry for the delay. It’s been fixed for a bit, but I got busy and forgot to update the thread. Anyway, ended up changing out the broken right rear line which had a pinhole right where the bend is going into the union connector to the caliper flex line. The main part of the line is poly coated, but both ends have bare steel sections that can (and do) corrode badly. Toyota factory bent replacement was readily available the next day, so for $28, I decided it was better than bending and flaring a replacement from the parts store, plus if it lasts as long as the original did, I’ll be happy. Once everything was bled, I couldn’t start the truck because the battery was too low. Once charged, I was able to get it running, and most of the dash lights cleared, radio worked again, etc., so that made me happy. I put a multimeter on the battery and verified that the alternator was in fact shot because I was watching the voltage drop to about 11.5 volts in just a few seconds of idling. I knew I needed a belt and idlers (they made noise sometimes in colder weather), and had planned to do them when I did the timing belt, but since I had to take the belt off for the alternator anyway, I decided it made sense to do that part now. The alternator was more difficult to get out than pretty much any vehicle I’ve ever changed one on before. I ended up dropping the skid plate, sway bar, and removing the PS pulley, along with radiator overflow, intake tube, etc. and still had to remove passenger wheel so I could gain access through the wheelwell. Took a fair amount of time because while apart, I cleaned and painted any rusty areas I can not normally access, as well as the pulleys and stuff because I can’t put stuff back together being rusty or greasy. I ended up getting a Duralast rebuilt alternator for $189.99 with a lifetime warranty figuring that even though it was a bear to change, it would be way easier in the future if I needed to replace it again since I used anti seize on all the hardware, everything was clean and painted, etc. Very weird coincidence though that the alternator decided to go out at the same time as the rear brake line!
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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12-13-2021, 12:23 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: MA
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if all automotive tech would do the same you did, that would make things last longer. cleaning and painting the inaccessible rusted area gives you the confidence that it's done right. i think all automotive tech should do this or at least recommend this to the owners of the car at an extra fee.
check your other brake lines as well for rust and replace it too for peace of mind. i did my rear lines last year, left and right and purchased the oem lines. i did my front too. now i know brake failure will be the thing of the past. for those with old 4runners, check your brake lines for rust and get it replaced. it could save your family's life or your life from a major accident.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
Sorry for the delay. It’s been fixed for a bit, but I got busy and forgot to update the thread. Anyway, ended up changing out the broken right rear line which had a pinhole right where the bend is going into the union connector to the caliper flex line. The main part of the line is poly coated, but both ends have bare steel sections that can (and do) corrode badly. Toyota factory bent replacement was readily available the next day, so for $28, I decided it was better than bending and flaring a replacement from the parts store, plus if it lasts as long as the original did, I’ll be happy. Once everything was bled, I couldn’t start the truck because the battery was too low. Once charged, I was able to get it running, and most of the dash lights cleared, radio worked again, etc., so that made me happy. I put a multimeter on the battery and verified that the alternator was in fact shot because I was watching the voltage drop to about 11.5 volts in just a few seconds of idling. I knew I needed a belt and idlers (they made noise sometimes in colder weather), and had planned to do them when I did the timing belt, but since I had to take the belt off for the alternator anyway, I decided it made sense to do that part now. The alternator was more difficult to get out than pretty much any vehicle I’ve ever changed one on before. I ended up dropping the skid plate, sway bar, and removing the PS pulley, along with radiator overflow, intake tube, etc. and still had to remove passenger wheel so I could gain access through the wheelwell. Took a fair amount of time because while apart, I cleaned and painted any rusty areas I can not normally access, as well as the pulleys and stuff because I can’t put stuff back together being rusty or greasy. I ended up getting a Duralast rebuilt alternator for $189.99 with a lifetime warranty figuring that even though it was a bear to change, it would be way easier in the future if I needed to replace it again since I used anti seize on all the hardware, everything was clean and painted, etc. Very weird coincidence though that the alternator decided to go out at the same time as the rear brake line!
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12-13-2021, 03:37 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Florida
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Similar issue
I just replaced all 4 rotors and brakes and front end hub bearings…all of my gauge cluster lights went haywire and my battery kept dying overnight…was able to jump it with my jump pack for a few days and planned on getting it to the shop for more eval, but then it started ldling really rough and sputtering…wouldn’t go over 15mph so I had to pull over and call AAA…numerous YouTube vids and posts on here show crazy electrical stuff like this and the shop said it was a bad battery and alternator. $787 later and all the gauge lights are still on and no inside accessories work…radio, A/C, wipers. Shop said all fuses and relays were good though and it must be a ground short somewhere and he didn’t have the time or inclination to track it down…said the dealership could do it faster…I’m wondering if the TPMS sensor got hosed during the hub and rotor replacement and it’s causing this electrical mess…maybe the ECU crapped out…? 4Lo, airbag, check engine…almost every light is on
One last thing…before I got stranded, I had pulled the negative battery cable the night before…battery held a charge and started fine without the jump pack…that led me to believe that I had a parasitic draw somewhere but nothing was on that I could find
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