12-28-2021, 09:17 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
Just an FYI, IF you do indeed have bad actuators, a new OEM actuator is going to cost you around $200 each just for the part/s....but the only thing that goes bad on the actuator is a small electrical motor which you can find on eBay for around $10 to $15 each, but it will require that you disassemble the actuator after removing it and replacing the motor, if you're up to the task of doing that, there are a few older post on the forum that will tell you which little motor you need to get, but it will require a little searching to find the posts, I'll try and help find them if you decide to go that route instead of replacing the entire actuator.
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Haha! Already took the plunge on that. Found some instructive videos on replacing the actuator motors. Ordered these:
Amazon.com: 2 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine : Automotive
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12-28-2021, 09:24 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn42
On retesting, I was getting 10+ (but not 11 or 12) consistently. Is there a logical reason to think that 10 wouldn't be enough to get the job done? Is there a logical reason that I could be getting partial voltage to that location, but not sufficient voltage? I was assuming either I'd have power, or not have power. Had not considered that I could have power, but insufficient power.
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I really don't know the answer to that because I don't know the specs/voltage the actuator was designed for, that's why I suggested testing the front, if you get the same or similar voltage that will answer your question, at this point that's what I would do.
I not sure if there's a relay involved in the circuit, but if so I don't know if the relay being or going bad could have that affect on the voltage, I would think not but it could be possible.
Electrical problems are one of the toughest issues to trouble shoot sometimes, you just have to go through a process of elimination until you find the issue, your new multi-meter makes it a lot easier than just guesswork and or replacing parts until you solve the issue.
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12-28-2021, 09:31 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn42
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I like your way of thinking, you'll do good, I'm as old as dirt and growing up we rebuilt everything, there wasn't anything made that my father and us kids couldn't fix, back then you could buy a "rebuild kit" for almost anything, you didn't have to go out and buy a new anything!
Most everything now-a-days is made to throw away when it stops working and you can hardly find any new parts to fix them.
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12-28-2021, 11:51 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
I like your way of thinking, you'll do good, I'm as old as dirt and growing up we rebuilt everything, there wasn't anything made that my father and us kids couldn't fix, back then you could buy a "rebuild kit" for almost anything, you didn't have to go out and buy a new anything!
Most everything now-a-days is made to throw away when it stops working and you can hardly find any new parts to fix them.
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Thanks for the encouragement. I'm "old", but maybe not "old as dirt". New technology ain't ALL bad, though. YouTube makes so much possible for me that I would never attempt otherwise. But I like to think I'm fairly intelligent. And if someone can make a video showing me how to do something, with a little bit of intestinal fortitude, I can probably do it too. This truck is for my soon-to-be 16 year old son. I'm hoping he's watching, and learning the same.
Last edited by shawn42; 12-29-2021 at 12:02 AM.
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01-01-2022, 05:26 PM
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#20
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So, good news and very bad news. Good news is, the actuator motors arrived. I successfully replaced one of them. Now when the lock/unlock button is pushed, the lock responds accordingly. The very bad news is, apparently I screwed something up in hooking back up the door handle mechanism. The door now will not open at all. Not from the inside, not from the outside. Is there any way for me to able to get it open now?
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01-01-2022, 06:39 PM
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#21
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That's good the replacement motors worked but a bummer about the door latches not working now.
The only way I can think of is by taking the door panel off to be able to reach inside to manually open it, I haven't read of anyone removing the rear door panel with the door closed but I have read of a couple of members being able to remove the front door panel with the door closed.
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01-01-2022, 07:54 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
That's good the replacement motors worked but a bummer about the door latches not working now.
The only way I can think of is by taking the door panel off to be able to reach inside to manually open it, I haven't read of anyone removing the rear door panel with the door closed but I have read of a couple of members being able to remove the front door panel with the door closed.
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Yeah, unfortunately, I tried that with no success. Getting the rear door panel off with the door closed is nigh impossible. Ended up pulling it off from the top, up close to the window ledge. Ended up breaking the door panel in that process. But did manage to get access into the area where the actuator mechanism is. Manually exercised the mechanism, and it still wouldn't open. It seems I messed up something inside the actuator to where it no longer works at all in terms of opening the door, even when you exercise the mechanism. Not sure what to do next. Will probably have to take it to a body shop and see if they can do anything.
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01-02-2022, 09:39 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn42
So, good news and very bad news. Good news is, the actuator motors arrived. I successfully replaced one of them. Now when the lock/unlock button is pushed, the lock responds accordingly. The very bad news is, apparently I screwed something up in hooking back up the door handle mechanism. The door now will not open at all. Not from the inside, not from the outside. Is there any way for me to able to get it open now?
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We'll deal with this 4Runner next with the power locks issue at the rear passenger side. Still waiting for it to return from the installation of the new set of tires from 4Wheelonline plus the alignment. Gonna start with the motors. Hope you'll update us when you fixed the handle mechanism.
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01-02-2022, 09:46 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revox92
We'll deal with this 4Runner next with the power locks issue at the rear passenger side. Still waiting for it to return from the installation of the new set of tires from 4Wheelonline plus the alignment. Gonna start with the motors. Hope you'll update us when you fixed the handle mechanism.
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At this point I'm at a loss for how to get the door opened. Once I do get it opened, I will not be attempting the motor replacement again. I'll be replacing the whole actuator. Running the risk of not being able to get the door opened at all is WAY too high a price to pay. I wish I had searched the site better before attempting that, to find the quite high number of people who have had an attempt to replace an actuator motor go horribly wrong in this same fashion. A fix that was going to cost me a few dollars in replacement motors will now cost me hundreds to get to the door open, it seems. Will likely be taking it to a body shop tomorrow and shelling out big bucks for them to attempt to get the door open.
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01-03-2022, 12:36 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn42
At this point I'm at a loss for how to get the door opened. Once I do get it opened, I will not be attempting the motor replacement again. I'll be replacing the whole actuator. Running the risk of not being able to get the door opened at all is WAY too high a price to pay. I wish I had searched the site better before attempting that, to find the quite high number of people who have had an attempt to replace an actuator motor go horribly wrong in this same fashion. A fix that was going to cost me a few dollars in replacement motors will now cost me hundreds to get to the door open, it seems. Will likely be taking it to a body shop tomorrow and shelling out big bucks for them to attempt to get the door open.
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I'm sorry I helped encourage you to attempt the actuator rebuild... but you are the first I read of this happening too.
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01-03-2022, 10:22 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
I'm sorry I helped encourage you to attempt the actuator rebuild... but you are the first I read of this happening too.
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Not your fault at all, AuSeeker. I had already decided I was going to try that, and ordered the motors, before you made your encouraging comment. Just venting my frustration, because I really have no idea what I did wrong. I didn't even open the actuator completely; only enough to slide the old motor out and the new one in. As far as I know, all the internals of the actuator are still there, in place. But the result would seem to say otherwise. And searching the site for "actuator repair gone wrong", or things similar to that, shows that this happens more frequently than you'd think. The only "fix" I've been able to find essentially requires destroying the actuator (while still mounted in the door) to get to an internal lever that will release the door. It requires drilling through the door panel, the interior sheet metal of the door, and into the actuator, to expose the lever. But that's beyond my toolset and skillset. So I'm pretty well stuck now, unfortunately.
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