I have a 2003 4Runner V6 2WD. I took it to a shop, and asked for a 3" lift. After they finished their work, I noticed a popping sounds or a thud noise coming from the front end whenever I was turning. I took it back to them and they said I needed wheel spacers or to buy a wheel & tire package from them. This didn't make sense to me, since it was not a rhythmic sound. I went back to them twice, and got the same answer. I also noticed the front driver side camber was different than the front passenger side. I paid them $2,600. This is what they installed:

• Camburg X-Joint Front Upper Control Arms
• Bilstein 5100s Front and Rear
• Old Man Emu Medium Front Springs (sticker says 885X)
• Old Man Emu Medium Rear Springs (I never got the model # of rear springs, I assume also 885X?)

I took it to a second shop (recommended by people here on the forums) and this new shop said the springs were too stiff, causing my lower control arms bushings to be torn. Also that my front steering was maxed out and it was hitting the steering stops. He said he would adjust the front springs to the first clip and swap out the rear springs. He said the rear springs had to be swapped out because they were too tall for the rear Bilstein 5100s. After getting my 4Runner back, it is definitely softer, but now the back is lower than the front. The new rear springs read: "Bilstein G/X E4-FD1-Z002T01". This shop charged me $2,000.

This is what I think I have installed in my 4Runner currently:

• Camburg X-Joint Front Upper Control Arms
• Bilstein 5100s Front and Rear
• Old Man Emu Medium Front Springs (sticker says 885X)
• Bilstein G/X E4-FD1-Z002T01 Rear Springs

This is what I measured just now, from the fender to center hub:

• Front Passenger: 23.5"
• Front Driver: 23"
• Rear Passenger: 22.5"
• Rear Driver: 22"

From researching on the forum, people are saying the stock ride height is 19" front and 21" rear, but that was for V8 models (I couldn't find anybody reporting stock V6 ride height).

Did I pay for a 4" front lift and 1" rear lift? I have 31" tires on the 4Runner, and it doesn't look like I could put anything bigger in the rear, but the front looks like it could take 33s. Any advice? Should I call the second shop again?

Well pictures never hurt. Then we could get a better idea.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Personally I think UCAs are mostly optional and pretty much just an upsell for average city drivers.

For $1,500 you should have been able to just install Kings (for front) without a resevoir, fully installed for $1,500 at most shops here in SoCal (at least on a 3rd gen).

And the ride would be great, much better for less cost. And for the rear I'll leave that to someone else for a comment as I do not know the ins-n-outs of 4th gen suspensions.

Front OME 885 are rated for a v8 model or v6 + bumper. They are a bit stiffer but I wouldn’t think this would cause much issues.

Likely the rear should’ve been OME 895 for a 2.5” lift

Pictures would help us. I feel likely they installed the bottom coil seat upside down on the front shocks.


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Im sorry this was such a headache and expense.

To some extent, I think when you start messing around with a 18 year old vehicle there may be some components that get stressed out. The bilstein 5100s are designed for lifted applications up to 3 inches, so I doubt that there was an issue with the rear struts and springs. Certainly you were right not to buy a new wheel set up. Stock 4rs should be able to fit 31s (though it gets trickier with spacers/ pushing the wheel out more).

Does it seem to drive better though now? Is the pop/ thud gone?

I would wait a few weeks before considering making a change. The suspension will settle a bit over a few hundred miles.

In terms of tire size - Id look at 275/70/17s, 255/75/17s, or 255/80/17s

ITs a lesson I also learned when I came back with a much bigger bill than expected to swap springs. Probably cheaper to buy a whole new set up and install than to have a shop replace coil over springs. Hopefully you can resell the rears to get some of the cost back or return them

Were the components installed by the first shop your choice or theirs? I can't imagine taking my '03 to a shop and telling them I want such and such a lift and let them choose the components. Suspension replacement is one of the easier mods you can make to your vehicle, pick out your own stuff and do it yourself and you will probably have better results. Too late for you this time.

The first shop probably installed the OME895s in the rear which is the medium springs. and they should only be ran at the lowest setting. I ran that setup for a while 885/895 on a v6 and it was fine.

Which shops did you go to? Because the first one didn't know what they were doing and the second one charged you way to much just to lower the front and install new rear springs.

Agreed. I would call myself a novice mechanic at best, and I did all my suspension lift work myself, including a 1” body lift. I bought my front coil overs pre-assembled for an extra ~$100 including new tops so it was an easier swap. I’m sure I saved thousands of dollars in labor costs. I also did a lot of research before buying all the parts myself.

if you're using OME springs, then your 5100's should all be set to the lowest possible clip setting....no lift at all, as the lift comes from the springs.

the engine/weight recommendations that OME gives for their front springs are based off of having 4x4 model...you don't, so you're even lighter in the front than what their ratings recommend. having 885's in the front of your vehicle is for sure overkill and it's not a surprise to hear that your front is higher than the rear. as someone else mentioned 884's are recommended for a v6 4x4 (with no additional weight) and are also 1/2" shorter than the 885's. the 885's work for a v6 4x4 if you have a steel bumper, or a v8 4x4 with no additional weight.

OME offers a 2"/1" lift for v6 4x4's which uses OME 883's in front, and OME 895E's in the rear. this would be ideal if you're just looking to run 31/32" tires. if you go to a 33, i'd suggest OME 884's in front, and OME 895's (no "E") in the rear

**EDIT** also - sorry to hear you're having all of these issues! what a nightmare.

Thanks everyone for the advice. In my original post, I mistakenly mischaracterized the bill from the second shop. In addition to fixing the suspension, he did some other maintenance related work. I took my 4Runner back to him a second time, and he swapped out the rear springs for a different set of bilstein springs. It raised the rear end, and now it's nice and level. I went out and measured the new ride height. I think I was parked over a bump or something, will measure again later on and see if Rear Driver is still a bit lower.

Front Passenger: 23.5"
Front Driver: 23"
Rear Passenger: 23.5"
Rear Driver: 22.75"

Regardless, it looks amazing now and I'm really happy with it. The popping/thud noise is completely gone, the front alignment is done right (the first shop had messed this up), and the springs aren't too stiff. Once I save up some money again, I plan on putting this bumper on the front, a winch, and some lighting. That will lower the front a bit, and restore the stock front lean. I also will eventually look into some 32s. After that, I'll leave it alone and enjoy it for a while.

I've learned a ton from this whole experience. Originally, I was an idiot and thought I could go into a shop that was highly rated on yelp and just say "I want a 3 inch lift". I didn't bother doing my homework on what they were doing and what I wanted. I also learned not to trust yelp for things like this.

Can anyone recommend me a good shop in Orange County that can work on Gen 3's. I am looking at a few. If I get a stock one I would like to find a reputable shop at good prices that could do suspension, skid plates and such that could turn it into a reliable Crawler over lander. Any suggestions is appreciated.