01-05-2022, 05:03 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Dallas
Posts: 17
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Rust in '06 4runner, good to buy?
Hey y'all, new member here and have been just scratching the surface of 4runners. My GF (lives in NJ) has a brother who is willing to sell me his '06 4runner for 8.5-9k. it has 150k miles and has been serviced by the brother and the previous owner for 12 years, carfax report is about as good as you can make it. Now, I live in Dallas, and I would buy and drive this car down whenever I can. The biggest issue I am finding with these otherwise amazing tanks is rust, especially with owners up north. I asked my GF to send me pics of the undercarriage to give me an idea of what I could potentially be buying, and I was wondering what y'all think of it/ with me living in Texas, would it be worth it for me to buy then seal the car for future use. Again, thanks for the help
Last edited by lpell7; 01-05-2022 at 05:55 PM.
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01-05-2022, 07:30 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Central NY
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So thats about the rust level on mine. Rust on the frame welds arent a concern, but there are some other areas around some of the predrilled holes that are common. It has a little more rust in the engine bay than id expect, but most of that should be cosmetic.
You can wire wheel the frame and coat it. There may be some rust on the inside of the frame, but if there is no ongoing exposure to salt, it shouldnt be a problem.
Other areas to check are the frame under the rear bumper and making sure the spare tire winch works
If you can get it for 8k or less, might be worth it for you
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2008 SR5 4WD Black. Bilstein 5100, 5th gen coils/ rear springs. 255 80 17 AT for everyday use. Victory Sliders. Victory Front bumper with winch/ lightbar. headunit upgrade. Back up camera install. Expert at replacement rear hatches
All you need to go off road is to be willing to get some scrapes and dents along the way
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01-05-2022, 07:40 PM
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#3
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Location: Dallas
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Thanks for that! yeah my hope is that it can be fixed with a wire brush and coating. final say will come tomorrow with mechanic giving a detailed look at it. last pic she sent has me worried though with what looks to be a crack on the back end, let me know what you think, thanks again!
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01-05-2022, 07:45 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: under the radar
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Based on the photos, I'd rate that truck as being in "OK" condition. Mice may have been nibbling on that rectangular pad (firewall) and the cabin air intake, below the windshield is clogged with debris....check the cabin air filter behind the glovebox, mice love that area. You want to make darn sure the truck goes into 4-high and lo. If I lived in TX, I'd be looking for a (cleaner) southern or southwestern truck even if it I had to spend a little more. 4th gen is an awesome platform....I like driving my '05 over my '17!
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*2017 4R TRD Pro, 01H5 Cement w/ Shrockworks dimpled tread plate sliders, Moroso oil catch-can, black powder-coated roof rails. (summer runner).
*2005 4R Sport Edition w/ Bilstein 5100's, Gen-5 brake upgrade, K&N cold air intake, cabin air intake mod, Falken Wildpeak AT3. (winter runner).
*1965 Pontiac GTO convertible, 4-speed w/tri-power, PHS documented. (born in Freemont CA).
*1962 Chevrolet C-10 (short-step) pickup, 4-speed, survivor. (born in Oakland CA).
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01-06-2022, 11:08 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2021
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I general the frame does not look that bad.
The spare tire winch seems in a pretty rough condition and might not budge when needed. It happened to my but luckily didn't leave me stranded.
Anyway, the new part is about $150 and it's a chain not a wire so should be more rust resistant. Cost me $170 in labor at body shop to get replaced and is worth every penny.
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01-06-2022, 11:19 AM
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#6
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Looks ok assuming it's the original paint and nothing has been painted over.
However, make sure to check the problematic areas, such as front radiator support corners, rear corners behind the bumper cover, i.e. places where dirt and moisture accumulate over time and cause most of the damage. I wouldn't worry re few small holes here and there, those are easily fixable. Plus some bolt-ons like spare tire supports are cheap and easily replaceable.
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01-06-2022, 04:19 PM
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#7
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Looks like a new exhaust and muffler from the Y pipe back, the old one probably rotted out.
But the frame and everything looks safe, just fluid film it once a year and it should last forever in Texas.
If the differential was cracked in that last pic, oil would be leaking out, so its probably just a large flake of rust coming off.
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01-06-2022, 06:07 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: California
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Is it really possible to take 4Runners in this condition (rust wise) and drive them reliably in a dry, non-salted area?
Coming from a dry, non-salted area, this level of rust seems excessive. But I have no baseline as every car I've owned/driven has had zero rust. I ask because I am finding lots of good prices out east, but everything in California is overpriced.
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01-06-2022, 10:17 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motonoia
Is it really possible to take 4Runners in this condition (rust wise) and drive them reliably in a dry, non-salted area?
Coming from a dry, non-salted area, this level of rust seems excessive. But I have no baseline as every car I've owned/driven has had zero rust. I ask because I am finding lots of good prices out east, but everything in California is overpriced.
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Yes. Having lived in Syracuse (heavy snow and salted roads) and then in North Carolina, it certainly is. The ongoing exposure to salt is a big concern in rusting, if you take out the exposure before it gets too bad, significant progression of rusting can take decades.
IF it is mild enough (just on the weldlines) you can make it go away completely. Even mild surface rust, you can treat with a rust reformer/ converter and paint again and not likely have issues. EVen if there is a small amount of rust thats hidden inside the frame, if its all washed out and fluid film applied etc, shouldnt progress to be a problem
But yes, I see all the time people from the Southwest or Cali who have this notion that any rust is a ticking time bomb. Biggest issue is that bolts become seized and are tougher to remove, otherwise generally a little rust never hurt anything
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2008 SR5 4WD Black. Bilstein 5100, 5th gen coils/ rear springs. 255 80 17 AT for everyday use. Victory Sliders. Victory Front bumper with winch/ lightbar. headunit upgrade. Back up camera install. Expert at replacement rear hatches
All you need to go off road is to be willing to get some scrapes and dents along the way
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01-09-2022, 03:00 PM
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#10
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Echoing that the rust isn’t too bad here! Outside of a wire wheel, consider a needle scaler to help knock it down quicker.
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01-11-2022, 04:47 PM
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#11
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Real Name: Mike
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Picture 5 is the one I'd be concerned with the most of these as there looks to be some thick flaking on the frame center-ish in the picture. I'd be jabbing that hard with a screwdriver as mine rotted from the inside out. Also check the frame corners deep behind the rear bumper. If you buy it you want to pull the bumper off so you can clean and neutralize the rust that most likely has started back there.
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03 4runner Limited
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01-13-2022, 02:02 AM
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#12
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Just check the frame rails really well before you do buy it. And if you do i would recommend removing as much loose scale as you can and spraying the entire frame inside and out with a product call "Fluid Film"
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01-21-2022, 12:02 AM
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#13
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Join Date: May 2020
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Real Name: Ronnie
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I bought an 01 T4R with frame rust that was minimum and 1.5 years later I had to get it fixed. I would make sure to get a couple people to look at the frame and rust just to play it safe.
Last edited by ronjon13; 01-21-2022 at 12:07 AM.
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01-21-2022, 10:37 AM
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#14
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looks about like our 03 before I corrosealed and fluid filmed it.
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01-21-2022, 12:20 PM
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#15
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one term: PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION! if interested, get that thing to a toyota dealer, spend $150 and get it looked over bow to stern. they might be able to zoom call. do not trust the girlfriends brother! once you buy it, its your responsibility. and like others have said, you should be looking around your salt free region.
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