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Old 02-14-2022, 12:08 AM #16
chris in ky chris in ky is offline
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As I mentioned the intermediate shaft is new, so that's out. They tried to tell me the original could be 'freed up' but I insisted on a new one.

The shop is doing all the work, like heck if I'm going to purge it myself after spending all this money. He suggested I top up the reservoir and bring it in Monday, so we'll see.

Is there a chance the pump is damaged from the pink milkshake fluid? If so they're gonna be replacing that too.
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Old 02-18-2022, 07:29 PM #17
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I finally got the truck back, they did everything in their power to fix the stiffness but it's still there. Fluid was flushed multiple times, new rack and intermediate shaft.

It truly is a shocking difference between my 2010 Sienna and this, I have to manually turn the steering wheel back to center after a turn, it won't do it otherwise.

He got a pump from the local Toyota dealer, is that next? He was surprised to find it's made by Cardone.
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Old 12-09-2023, 11:11 PM #18
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Did you ever get this resolved? I’m having a similar issue.
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Old 12-14-2023, 03:22 PM #19
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By having similar issue , you mean your steering wheel was not returning to center after a left or right turn ? I'll suggest you first check the u joint situated at end of the intermediate shaft where it connects to the pinion stub of the rack. Do the check with both front wheels off the ground with engine off. If there is rust on the u joint, it'll indicate the joint is probably stiff from rust and lack of lubrication ( dried ). You should be able to turn steering wheel with very little effort ( like hot knife thro butter ). If turning effort is excessive, spray WD40 onto joint, let soak and work steering wheel side to side a few times. If steering effort improves, you have found root cause.
This happened to my '05 4R w/V8 when the joint rusted up and I noticed that the steering wheel progressively refused to return to center after turns. Tip: its easier to reach u joint to smear grease/heavy oil ( I used both ) if the Driver side wheel is removed and the flexible ( rubber ) flap at the fender/wheel well is partially moved by undoing one or two plug fasteners. The u joint is then visible/reachable for servicing.
Hope this will be helpful. Good luck.

PS: I'm up here in the cold white north ( Ontario, Canada ) where copious amount of salt is used on the roads each winter. I may add that the same goes with the tranny shifter. If shifting out of Park & thro the gears becomes stiff, spray WD40/Fogging Oil to the linkages connecting the input shaft @ tranny. Lub both sides of this shaft ( driver AND passenger ).
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