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Old 02-25-2022, 01:02 PM #16
firebirdguy firebirdguy is offline
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Originally Posted by Derek View Post
These are all good points. I don't mind paying a little more at the dealership. I just want it fixed the right way. I travel for work Mon-Fri most weeks so I don't have much time to do my own work these days unfortunately. When the sound changed I believe it was when the electronic brake booster kicked on like it typically does. We have a trip planned in April so I want to be confident that this will be reliable like it has been in the past. I have always changed the oil every 5K miles with Mobil1 (regular stuff, not high-mileage) but I could switch with the next change at 195K. Without it making the sound right now I'm wondering how much troubleshooting can be done.
thats fine if you are ok with using the dealership... but a reputable mechanic or larger chain shop will fix it the right way too. ive heard just as many if not more horror stories of dealership mechanics than normal mechanics.

diagnosing a bad alt or other parts like idler pulleys etc is pretty straight forward & any decent shop can do that just as well as a dealership, & they wont charge as much for the labor or the parts. but yes if its not making the noise it may be harder to verify what it is/was. just a suggestion to save some money. hope it works out for you.
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Old 02-25-2022, 02:19 PM #17
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What I do when isolating a bearing screech is with motor running, spray WD40 using the straw, on each pulley bearing right where the bolt meets the bearing race. Its thin so it penetrated into the bearing while its running. It wont last more than a minute or two but it will quiet the screech on the offending bearing.momentarily. Id guess on the idler/tensioner pulley. They are quasi sealed and water and dirt can ruin them fairly easily.

I also buy skf, koyo 6203 bearing buy the dozen. When I change the serp belt, I change pulley bearings. On these trucks, I think the only one I can replace the bearing on is the tensioner because of the bolt/inner race diameter is different. Idlers, just buy a new pulley. Tensioner, I use two 6203 bearings to make sure its as wide as the oem bearing 5203. Two bearings are 1/16” wider than one 5203 bearing. Bolts on just fine.

I just replaced the water pump on my mothers Lincoln town car. Both idler and tensioner use 6203 bearings so it was a quick and cheap repair to swap out bearings while I had it apart. These bearings are universal in the auto industry.

The bearings are $6 each on ebay.
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Old 03-06-2022, 07:32 PM #18
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I still suggest listening to each component with a stethoscope or screwdriver. Do it while the noise is actually occurring. You should be able to identify the source that way.
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Old 03-30-2022, 11:41 AM #19
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So I ended up replacing the alternator myself over the weekend. The noise would come and go so it's probably too early to know whether this was the problem. But at least I've got a new alternator and it was only ~$170 (OEM) from Toyota. I'm hoping this is the fix but if not then at least I can eliminate it. I also changed the oil and used Mobil1 High Mileage as suggested. Thanks again for all the suggestions and help!
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Old 03-30-2022, 06:09 PM #20
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My alternator started whining and then stopped, right as my battery light came on.
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