Casita is relatively light, you'll be fine. A brake controller is fine even if a basic model. It takes a minute to find the correct plug under the left kick panel, but they just plug in and also have a ground wire. The brake controller makes a huge difference even on flat slow stops. No trailer clunk or push. Use whatever springs you want but nose up hauling might make steering light.

I pull a 23' Airstream. I get 9-11 mpg, depending on if there is a headwind or tailwind. I'm very pleased with the way it handles.

My trans temp warning light has never come on

I have original size P265/65R17. I do have to raise the rear end up high to connect to the Equalizer L brackets but I can get it high enough to just slide them on. When you have everything connected, road ready, is it level or is the trailer nose up? It's important to be level. Maybe your Equalizer ball is too high off the ground???

I have the original X-REAS shocks; no leaks and control is very good. Bags do not increase your bumper or towing capacity. They will level the rig but if you use the instructions in your Equalizer owner's manual, you can level it that way.

I have not altered my suspension in any way. It's possible the tires are causing your problems. SUVs are already top heavy and you have better control when you're closer to the ground; lower center of gravity.

Do you have the manual? I can attach a pdf if you need it.

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Mine did not, but I was pulling temps as high as 250 using the Car Scanner app. That being said, I just pulled all the service records and I saw that the previous owner replaced the radiator with an aftermarket "performance" one, and I'm wondering if that didn't have some impact on the efficacy of the ATF cooler or something got messed up in the install

I'm level - I went through hours of adjusting and tweaking this to get it to where it is. My tires have 8 years/50k on them and I hate the road noise so I'm planning to change them to the smaller size, then I'll redo the setup.

What's the weight on the Airstream? Beautiful trailer.

Thank you for all the feedback.

From a lifetime ago I learned the last thing fixed is the first thing broken. Meaning, always suspect the last repair/modification that was done to anything to be a prime suspect for any problems. I found that the normal operating temp of a T4R transmission is 175-220, but 190 is optimal. Over 200 it's getting hot and at 220 you need to stop and cool down. Over 240 and you've damaged it. The article didn't say what year this was for or which engine, transmission.

I don't have a scanner. I had a very small leak in the transfer case in 2017. My trusty, Toyota certified local repair shop said it would take a long time to drop the oil level. I waited until 2019 and told him to fix it. Other than that I've never experienced any transmission issues.

The AS is about 6,500 lbs. when it's loaded. the unloaded tongue weight is 730. It rides very nicely, very good in the turns. Original X-REAS shocks still holding steady. I've been 4900 miles to Oregon and back, Dumfries, VA 1K miles, and down to FL, LA, MS, AR, TX; no problems.

My oldest son has a 2006 SE V8. I think he's around 178K now. He has the exhaust header noise that is loud for a couple miles, then stops. He has a rust spot in rear hatch. He pulls a 2600 lb. boat with his. We exchange issues and concerns but they have both been good tow vehicles.

BTW, 6 years is considered the life of trailer tires. It's because they sit so long before being moved. I've read about a lot of old tires disintegrating on trailers and causing thousands of dollars of damage.

I brought my ride in for a checkup and to see if the transmission fluid needed to be changed and just a general checkup prior to my next tow. It's a reputable shop but I still left with a list of items that needed attention. Lower control arms, wheel bearing, and sadly, the xreas is failing.

Now I'm looking at an "opportunity" to get the suspension updated. Does anyone have thoughts on what I should be installing? The likely choice is the Bilstein 5100s, and that's what they priced. Full quote for all the work is $4,100...tough to swallow so I'm looking to make the most of the labor. May piece it out so lessen the blow.

Any better option that the 5100's that may improve the towing ride when towing?