04-05-2022, 08:53 PM
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#1
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New UCA's/Tires/Lift, now drives like crap
I put some new JBA UCA's in, put the Bilstein 5100's at their highest setting, and put on 285/75/16's, and now the truck drives like crap. Drove very well before, now when you turn the wheel, the truck seems to hesitate, and is very slow to react. It just seems to lumber down the road, where it didn't do that before. I posted the photos of what the truck looks like, as well as the recent alignment specs.
Previously I had stock UCA's, stock 265/75/16 tires, and the 5100's were at the lowest lift setting.
Any ideas what I can do to make the truck drive like it did before, without taking all this stuff off? I really like the way the truck looks now, but not really that stoked about how it drives. Do I just have to live with it like this? Any other ideas are appreciated.
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04-05-2022, 10:14 PM
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#2
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Your front end is clearly higher than the back. That is going to change things some. I see the swaybar end-links connected on one side but what about the other? Stock springs?
You've raised the center of gravity and changed the roll center of the vehicle. I don't know enough about suspension geometry to tell you how the roll-center change impacts this without giving it some more thought and referencing things. I'm used to thinking about this from the perspective of lowering performance cars. Either way, raising the center of gravity is likely to cause more body roll and the vehicle will take longer to "take a set" if you're still on the same spring rate. This is probably one of the reasons that lift kits typically have stiffer springs.
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04-06-2022, 06:47 AM
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#3
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Try removing the spacer, the 5100s give around 2.5 lift with stock springs only and ride fairly well, with the added weight you should be considering swapping the springs for something with a higher rate.
If you do any sort of wheeling you may run into some problems down the line with 5100s and spacers on stock coils.
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OME Springs w Bilstein 5100F&R, Durobumps bumb stops, Toytec 1" BL, Exhaust cam gears with 3° retard, Prado120 Snorkel, AFE Stage 2si, Magnaflow Catback w/ dual side exit 285/70R17 Dynapros MT Energy Suspension Bushings all around
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04-06-2022, 08:15 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miller507
Try removing the spacer, the 5100s give around 2.5 lift with stock springs only and ride fairly well, with the added weight you should be considering swapping the springs for something with a higher rate.
If you do any sort of wheeling you may run into some problems down the line with 5100s and spacers on stock coils.
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I agree.
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04-06-2022, 09:55 AM
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#5
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You're ride is harsh because you are adding a good chunk of weight in the tires and are preloading the shock if you still have OE springs and an aftermarket bumper. Combine that with the higher CG and likely some moderate binding in the driveline since you are around +3" of lift.
You could regear, or throw money at the squeezing a few extra ponies out of the engine. Try playing around with different end links, bumpstops or a panhard correction. But it all cost $.. Typically ride quality diminishes the more lift & weight you add.
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04-06-2022, 12:52 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miller507
Try removing the spacer, the 5100s give around 2.5 lift with stock springs only and ride fairly well, with the added weight you should be considering swapping the springs for something with a higher rate.
If you do any sort of wheeling you may run into some problems down the line with 5100s and spacers on stock coils.
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Yes, I was thinking of trying this, or maybe a better idea, clipping the 5100's down one click.
Not sure what added weight you are talking about, are you referring to the bumper?
Also, regarding wheeling and running into problems, what kind of problems are you referring to?
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04-06-2022, 12:53 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanRunner651
You're ride is harsh because you are adding a good chunk of weight in the tires and are preloading the shock if you still have OE springs and an aftermarket bumper. Combine that with the higher CG and likely some moderate binding in the driveline since you are around +3" of lift.
You could regear, or throw money at the squeezing a few extra ponies out of the engine. Try playing around with different end links, bumpstops or a panhard correction. But it all cost $.. Typically ride quality diminishes the more lift & weight you add.
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Sorry if I wasn't more clear, but the ride is not harsh, the truck just turns a bit odd, and delayed in it's response. Rides fine and feels fine in a straight line!
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04-06-2022, 01:15 PM
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#8
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Front coil spacers on top of fully maxed out 5100's is your problem. You cannot run both.
Remove spacers and max out 5100's or keep spacer and go to lowest setting on the 5100's.
Once you pick one of those two options listed go back and get another alignment.
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04-06-2022, 01:22 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy88fj62
Front coil spacers on top of fully maxed out 5100's is your problem. You cannot run both.
Remove spacers and max out 5100's or keep spacer and go to lowest setting on the 5100's.
Once you pick one of those two options listed go back and get another alignment.
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OK, will try one of these options. Any opinion on which the best choice would be? Thanks!
Last edited by PedroV; 04-06-2022 at 02:31 PM.
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04-06-2022, 01:31 PM
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#10
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just an observation.
Looks like you have an Alu spacer (blue arrow)+ an extra thick tophat isolator (top Orange arrow, that rubber donut on top of the coil spring.)
Rub on the UCA? (lower yellow arrow)
The JBAs want a certain wheel spec to fit.
Maybe the rub is the hesitation you feel?
Included a stock OEM isolator pic.
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04-06-2022, 01:42 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff
just an observation.
Looks like you have an Alu spacer (blue arrow)+ an extra thick tophat isolator (top Orange arrow, that rubber donut on top of the coil spring.)
Rub on the UCA? (lower yellow arrow)
The JBAs want a certain wheel spec to fit.
Maybe the rub is the hesitation you feel?
Included a stock OEM isolator pic.
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Thanks for the photo of the stock tophat isolator. I was wondering if that was thicker than stock, looks like it is. I probably want to get a stock one back in there.
The rub is definitely not the cause of the hesitation, as it is only when the wheel is turned slightly off center at speed (like over 50mph).
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04-06-2022, 01:50 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroV
Thanks for the photo of the stock tophat isolator. I was wondering if that was thicker than stock, looks like it is. I probably want to get a stock one back in there.
The rub is definitely not the cause of the hesitation, as it is only when the wheel is turned slightly off center at speed (like over 50mph).
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Maybe the yaw rate sensor is off.
Did you do a ZPC after lift?
(Zero point calibration)
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04-06-2022, 01:58 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff
Maybe the yaw rate sensor is off.
Did you do a ZPC after lift?
(Zero point calibration)
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No, I did not, looked it up, not convinced that is my issue, but might be worth a try if the other suggestions don't help.
Last edited by PedroV; 04-06-2022 at 02:46 PM.
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04-06-2022, 03:36 PM
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#14
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Agree with the rest of the guys that have chimed in. I assumed you were having a "bumpy" ride.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroV
Yes, I was thinking of trying this, or maybe a better idea, clipping the 5100's down one click.
Not sure what added weight you are talking about, are you referring to the bumper?
Also, regarding wheeling and running into problems, what kind of problems are you referring to?
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By having a top spacer paired with 5100s on the highest clip you have limited travel on the springs so its likely to have some binding issues which may lead to broken shocks, bent endlinks among other things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroV
Sorry if I wasn't more clear, but the ride is not harsh, the truck just turns a bit odd, and delayed in it's response. Rides fine and feels fine in a straight line!
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If you feel the steering is odd, you should check the alignment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by randy88fj62
Front coil spacers on top of fully maxed out 5100's is your problem. You cannot run both.
Remove spacers and max out 5100's or keep spacer and go to lowest setting on the 5100's.
Once you pick one of those two options listed go back and get another alignment.
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Pretty much
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff
just an observation.
Looks like you have an Alu spacer (blue arrow)+ an extra thick tophat isolator (top Orange arrow, that rubber donut on top of the coil spring.)
Rub on the UCA? (lower yellow arrow)
The JBAs want a certain wheel spec to fit.
Maybe the rub is the hesitation you feel?
Included a stock OEM isolator pic.
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Good eye, I saw something odd but it didn't wrap my head around what it was.
__________________
LC Prado 150
4th Gen 4Runner
1GR-FE
OME Springs w Bilstein 5100F&R, Durobumps bumb stops, Toytec 1" BL, Exhaust cam gears with 3° retard, Prado120 Snorkel, AFE Stage 2si, Magnaflow Catback w/ dual side exit 285/70R17 Dynapros MT Energy Suspension Bushings all around
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04-06-2022, 03:38 PM
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#15
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Zero point calibration, usually lights up the dash with error codes.
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LC Prado 150
4th Gen 4Runner
1GR-FE
OME Springs w Bilstein 5100F&R, Durobumps bumb stops, Toytec 1" BL, Exhaust cam gears with 3° retard, Prado120 Snorkel, AFE Stage 2si, Magnaflow Catback w/ dual side exit 285/70R17 Dynapros MT Energy Suspension Bushings all around
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