Posting as I'm trying to figure out what to do with my '05 v8 with 222k miles on it. Over the past 6-8 months I've replaced:

-Air injection valve
-Air pump
-Gear box (not sure what this is called, but someone broke this item to get the car in neutral)
-Battery and related cords
-Starter
-Radiator

After all that and thousands of dollars, neither my mechanic or Toyota dealership can figure out what is wrong without digging way down into the engine which will cost more than I can afford. It runs just fine at the moment, but I need to erase the codes about every third day to remove the check engine light and I don't get stuck in limp mode. It will not smog.

So...I'm at the end of my rope here in terms of what to do. Do folks buy these for parts? I put a ton of upgrades into it about 2 year ago that have only about 20k miles on them:
- ToyTec lift kit,
-Totyec rock sliders
-Updated headlight covers
-Method wheels
-k02 tires
-Panasonic stereo, focal speakers

Suggestions? I've never sold a car before....

Backing up a step, what are the codes triggering the CEL?

Secondary air injection system pump stuck off bank 1

Catalyst System efficiency below threshold (bank code 2)

I feel like there was one more, but can't find it. Will add if the check engine light is on in the AM.

Got it. If it were my truck, I'd start with SAI code and resolve it before moving to the next, especially if the actual Toyota dealer has no answers.

I have a V6 but have seen quite a few issues on the board with secondary air pump on v8s, like this causing headaches.

As for selling as-is, you're going to get bottom dollar with the issues you're describing unless you resolve them. Mods generally don't increase sale value.

Where in CA are you located? You're telling me a Toyota Tech cannot figure out what to do next with your vehicle?

Did the shop put in a brand new oem secondary air injection pump? Did you get your old part back to make sure they actually did it?

While the intake was off the knock sensors and starter should be done. Wasn't a bad job to do over a weekend.

Thanks, that was what they were working on trying to evaluate.

Bummer those mods don't help with sale price.

They did put in a new part, but it was not a Toyota part. The dealership was in Auburn, CA. It wasn't that the tech couldn't necessarily figure it out, but they would not trust any of the work my outside mechanic did so were going to go through it all again, before even getting to the area where the mechanic said would be their next step. This was estimated at around $4k just to identify the issue.

Then, they told me the diagnostic tool didn't pick anything new up and as I needed my car, went to pick it up. When I got there the guy was acting weird and walked me through the dealership service area and out to my car (I thought this was weird as the typically drive your car up to front). He gave me the keys and walked off, saying the diagnostic was waived. When I got in the car, the shifter felt like it was off and then when it went into drive, didn't do anything. I went back in and they said they would take a look. They then told me they 'forgot' to let me know that someone had attempted to steal the vehicle the night before, but couldn't get it out of the lot.

So they basically tried to get me to drive it off the lot knowing it was not working properly. After that the starter went bad, the radiator blew and the battery failed. Since then I've not gone back to any dealership.

I’m sorry you’re going through all that

A few thoughts
- you could try posting it to a few Toyota off road groups in California - generally I think you’ll get more forgiveness for the quality and any issues as we like to think of ourselves as being able to fix anything and knowing more than the mechanics

- you could consider taking off the off road stuff and selling separately if you have stock parts

- I would have demanded to talk to the manager and even owner of the dealership about that- the car leaving worse than it came in. I’m sure they have some stupid sign like not liable for issues in parking lot etc but still - they should have let you know and talked to you about good will and covering it etc

- part of this is you said not wanting to out a few thousand more into it - I’d also say factoring in the time and frustration of dealing with shops adds in to that cost too

Putting an after market secondary air injection pump was a bad idea. The labor to get in there just to check it and or install a new one is a pain (i've done it myself and did a write up here).

If you were in Los Angeles I'd probably buy it off you and fix it up for my Fiance.

Ha, yeah thanks - the frustration level is high. I have indeed thought about taking off the parts and replacing - I thought those would add to vehicle value but now get that's not the case (as well as new parts in the engine from what I gather). I do not have the stock parts, but do have some options there.

The dealership did fix the gear issue, but it's hard to point at them for any of the other stuff without some basis of how the break-in impacted it.

I like the idea of looking at some off road groups around here as there are plenty. While I'd like to sell it to someone who could get it back on the road, I will add that to list of potential next steps.

Appreciate the response.

Agree on the after market pump.

I would drive it to LA if it were to make sense mutually. It runs just fine with codes cleared and once cleared they have never come on when driving. If that is something you want to discuss, please PM me. Not sure we are allowed to discuss here.

I'll shoot you a pm. It's a long shot but worth talking.

I don't have much to offer in terms of a solution, but I've always felt some comfort in knowing that 4th gens are generally cheap enough that it's not too far of a stretch to just buy another one when something goes catastrophically wrong. Especially if the repair bill is pushing $4k+

If your truck is starting and driving good and gas mileage has remained ok, why keep chasing them dealer scamming check engine lights.
Trust me these check engine lights have made dealers and their mechanic rich for many years.

New to this forum and not allowed to start a thread yet. Got a great deal on a 2003 4R, but the rear hatch keeps locking closed even when the front doors are unlocked. Mechanic friend says it is electrical and dealer, (as usual HUA) says cannot be electrical just keep lubing the mechanism.

Anyone got an answer?